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Installing roller rockers, any tips?

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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 09:38 AM
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From: va beach VA
Installing roller rockers, any tips?

1996 5.0L f150 4x4.

Have a new set of Crane 1.7 rollers and stock length push rods. Am going to replace the stock stuff with the new stuff. Should see some HP. "Direct replacement" from Crane.

Do I need the guide plates or anything else?
Got the valve cover gaskets but from the looks I need to remove the intake and a bunch of stuff to get to them. Should take about 4-6 hours?

What else do I need for parts? or special tools?

Any tips?

Thanks in advance,
Randy
 
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 12:43 PM
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If you got the Crane pedistal mount rollers then you don't need guide plates. If you got the stud mount rollers then you need guide plates and hardened pushrods
 
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 01:20 PM
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yes ,I got the Crane pedistal mount rollers.
Thanks for the reply Ron

never been into a ford motor before, really looking for "you have to remove the xxxx, you need xxxxx part/gasket, don't forget xxxxxx and do xxxxx while your there and this makes it easier.

Randy
 
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 01:29 PM
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If all you are changing is the rockers, then all you need to remove is the valve covers. One end of the pushrods sits on the lifters under the intake but the top of the lifters is concave and it's no problem to sit the pushrods in position without removing the intake. If you unboat the rockers carefully the pushrods won't even come out of the lifters. The new rockers just bolt down and you torque them. Whole operation shouldn't take much more than an hour. Don't know about a big horsepower increase just putting on 1.7 rockers. It will give you slightly more valve lift but not more than a few more horsepower.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2025 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ronclark
If all you are changing is the rockers, then all you need to remove is the valve covers. One end of the pushrods sits on the lifters under the intake but the top of the lifters is concave and it's no problem to sit the pushrods in position without removing the intake. If you unboat the rockers carefully the pushrods won't even come out of the lifters. The new rockers just bolt down and you torque them. Whole operation shouldn't take much more than an hour. Don't know about a big horsepower increase just putting on 1.7 rockers. It will give you slightly more valve lift but not more than a few more horsepower.
I came across this thread looking for info. Is it really that simple? You don’t have to put each cylinder at TDC? Just install them finger tight, and hope the achieve torque spec within 1/4 to full turn? I’m tackling a project similar to this one real soon. Any tips would very helpful. Thanks
 
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Old Jul 5, 2025 | 10:35 PM
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It's always a good idea to check things like pushrod length, lifter preload, and roller to valve tip contact. The first two are checked with the lifter sitting on the base circle (valve closed). Checking the roller to valve tip contact pattern requires the use of a dry-erase marker to cover the valve tip, turn the engine enough for the rocker to go through a full up/down cycle, and check the pattern on the valve tip.

There are a couple of adjustments you can make: The pushrod length and the fulcrum of the rocker. The combination will determine where the center of the roller to valve contact is and how spread-out the contact is. Ideally you want it as narrow as possible, centered on the valve tip.

On stud-mounted rockers, you can adjust the rocker height.

If you're installing on heads with pedestals, you can only raise the pedestal slightly by installing shims under them. If you find you have to lower the fulcrum, the only thing you can do is to get shorter pushrods.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2025 | 10:50 PM
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From: Branson West, MO
Originally Posted by xlt4wd90
It's always a good idea to check things like pushrod length, lifter preload, and roller to valve tip contact. The first two are checked with the lifter sitting on the base circle (valve closed). Checking the roller to valve tip contact pattern requires the use of a dry-erase marker to cover the valve tip, turn the engine enough for the rocker to go through a full up/down cycle, and check the pattern on the valve tip.

There are a couple of adjustments you can make: The pushrod length and the fulcrum of the rocker. The combination will determine where the center of the roller to valve contact is and how spread-out the contact is. Ideally you want it as narrow as possible, centered on the valve tip.

On stud-mounted rockers, you can adjust the rocker height.

If you're installing on heads with pedestals, you can only raise the pedestal slightly by installing shims under them. If you find you have to lower the fulcrum, the only thing you can do is to get shorter pushrods.
so what you saying is I don’t have to rotate the engine for every rocker? With the lower intake still on, What’s the easiest way to know that I’m sitting on the base circle? Mine our pedestal style
 
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Old Jul 6, 2025 | 01:24 PM
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Yes, you rotate the engine to bring a lifter down to base circle, where the valve closes, where the lifter no longer descends.
 
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