I have tried several different brands and types over the last thirty years however, I always come back to Meguiar's. A great product at a resonable price. They also have some very helpful information on their website.
To add to a previous post, it is necessary to use a polish to regain the shine.

 

Yes "Polish" prep is important. The most important thing to do is properly wash your vehicle with a quality car wash and then dry it properly.

The next step is to see if your vehicle needs to be ClayBar'd. This is easy to do by putting a plastic bad over your hand and slightly rub it on different area's of your vehicle. The plastic bag amplifies the grit that is still stuck in your paint. The ClayBar process is very easy to do and only takes 30-40 minutes for me to do my entire F250.

The next step is to use a polish/leveler to clean the paint further. I use a Porter Cable Orbital Polisher that makes the process easier and does a much better job than by hand. Also...Almost all polishes have some sort of solvent in them to help them do their job. Not all of the solvent is removed when you wipe the surface so I use microfiber towels and Alchohol in a stray bottle. You can also use any type of glass cleaner.

The last step is the Wax or Sealant. I prefer Wax becasue I have a Black vehicle and the look of Wax on dark vehicles is much deeper than a Sealant. Sealants are better for lighter vehicles and some reds.

I spend a lot of time on my vehicle and most just want a quick job done...If you spend one good afternoon cleaning your vehicle the right way then you can just do the occasional quickee clean/wax and keep a nice looking vehcile.

I buy everything from www.topoftheline.com

They have excellent product lines for all budgets and they offer cleaning accessories that you just can't find anywhere.

Good Hint...lots of MicroFiber towels and Cotton Baby Diapers!

 

EagleDakota is dead on.

"The system approach works every time: wash, clay bar (gets the contaminants out of the paint), polish, and wax."

I recommend the following Meguiars products:
Wash with NXT shampoo G12664 (1oz to 1gallon)
C2000 Clay Bar lubricated with Meguiars Mirror Glaze M34 Final Inspection (Pts & Gals)
Polish with glaze (e.g. Meguiars M07 hand glaze) to feed and condition the paint
Wax - Meguiars NXT G12718 for a beautiful deep gloss with long life.

Maintain regularily with M34 Final Inspection

Visit my website to see these products. Pick some up if you're interested.

 

Dr. Detail

I just purchased an 07 F150 Screw with Redfire paint. Would you recommend the same products above for my truck and color or something else? What do you suggest for applying the products, as I will polish/wax by hand.

neil

 

Hello Neil

I previously recommended the following Meguiars products:
Wash with NXT Shampoo G12664 (1 oz to 1 gallon)
C2000 Clay Bar lubricated with Meguiars Mirror Glaze M34 Final Inspection (Pts & Gals)
Polish with glaze (e.g. Meguiars M07 hand glaze) to feed and condition the paint
Wax - Meguiars NXT G12718 for a beautiful deep gloss with long life.

Maintain regularily with M34 Final Inspection

... and would do so again. These are time proven professional grade products and I'm sure you'll love the results (BTW, ALL my vehicles are red).

If you're applying everything by hand you will do well with good quality (clean & soft) Terry cloth or Diapers for application. You also have a choice of prepared terry or Microfiber covered foam pads. Meguiars offers packs of 4 of their foam applicators found in many of their packaged products.

These are all great for application by hand. For wipe off you can't beat Microfiber cloths, usually about 16" by 16". You'll be wiping off only dried excess wax/polish. Once dried the excess is usless so taking off by ANY machine is discouraged.

If you'd like more discussion re: products or procedures feel free to visit my website (DrDetailForLess.com) or call me at 714-319-2087 (Cell). I'm on the Left Coast.

Thanx for contacting me.

Sincerely,
Wayne Loomis
Dr. Detail

 

wayne, very good detail bud. I need to clean up my truck but its a waste to even attempt anything this detailed with the amount of rust on the hood and how messed up the bed and panels are. however with my silvermist 05 pontiac grand prix i use only meguires and it makes the finish look like glass on a nice day. what is your suggestion for bug and tar removing? I ride on the highway a lot and kill species daily with the front bumper.

 

Mequiars cleaner, polish, then the Gold Class paste wax IMO. That shine will signal low flying airplanes!

 

I agree with all the post regarding clay bar, then wax. I just completed 2 black and a green vehicle using this method. Used the Meg clay bar system, NXT, and added a coat of S-100 carnuba the following day. The shine on all three vehicles was a deep mirror like shine. You can drive the vehicles looking at the reflection off the hood. This method also makes for easy clean up down the road.

 

Wash vehicle with "DAWN" dishwashing liquid and water... this removes all old wax. Claybar. Zaino 1, 2 and 6. This will give you a show car shine! Expensive, but I didn't spend 45,000 for a 5.95 polish.

 

CaptGuz

Glad to hear that your silvermist 2005 pontiac grand prix enjoys Meguires. My 1969 Pontiac GTO has the same taste in detail products.

"Bugs" are water-based but "Tar" is pertroleum-based. It's tough to find one product to do both well. Most products are compromises. 3M makes an excellent tar/grease remover in thier 8980 Adhesive Remover. It IS a solvent but it is very gentle to paint. On the other hand MOST commercial bug and tar removers will do. There's no magic solution here. Pick a good brand and use it sparingly.

It's best to prevent bugs from sticking in the first place. A good slippery wax is the best choice. Then if they do stick it will be only to the wax coating. A lot of polymers are not very slippery but Meguiars old faithful #26 (paste or liquid) is one of the slipperiest wax/polymer blends without undesireable inert silicones in the formula (it's bodyshop safe).

If you bumper is not painted (but I think it is) then just keep the rubber/vinyl well conditioned with the appropriate products. Meguiars makes #40 Rubber/Vinyl Cleaner/Conditioner. Again it needs to be used frequently so that bugs have little to stick to. Meguiars also makes a Gold Class Trim Detailer which will not only keep the rubber/vinyl trim looking great but will remove dried wax smudges and is a little slippery as well.

Rain-X is great for headlights and windshields. I delivered a Datsun 240Z from Long Beach, CA to Jackson, OH once and drove through a "blizzard" of moths/butterflies. The windshield rinsed off at the next gas station. Just don't use it inside!

For dried bug removal you can apply a heavy "glob" of liquid wax or polish and let it soak. Meguiars once recommended their #06 Cleaner/Wax for just that purpose. The dried remains softens and can be wiped right off. For fresh "impacts" (still moist) Meguiars #34 Final Inspection (a Mist and Wipe) will take care of the bug debris (and bird droppings) safely. You can try it on dried remains as well.

(P.S. I would like to emphasize one thing that BPofMD mentioned and that is that "DAWN" or any other dishwashing liquids are "grease" cutters. Wax is a kissing cousin to grease so they will be especially harsh on your paint. They WILL strip wax. If you use one, rinse it off as quickly as possible when done. For any other reason that stripping wax, please, use only automotive grade shampoos.)

Visit DrDetailForLess.com to see these products or call me on the Left Coast at 714-870-8555.

BTW, What did the windshield say when the bug hit it .... ?

"I'll bet he doesn't have enough guts to try that agian!" :-)

 

x10000000 (or whatever # we are at) for megs. def. start with claying if you haven't done it in a while. it'll take a worn looking truck and turn it looking new. i love the stuff... unfortunatly, so does my wallet

 

thanks doc... appreciate the tips on the bugs. i'm going to do my best to keep it heavily waxed since it will be seeing the highway a LOT. I love the gold class paste as to me it seems easy on and off. i also have some flash wax from a local place that sells directly to the public ... their stuff is pretty much the exclusive for the NC Auto expo here in raleigh - they have goo stuff but pricepoint is much higher than meg's.

again thanks

 

I drive a ton on the highway(13k miles in 3 months) and I have to say claying your truck is the best thing. I thought my bumper was never going to look new again until I clayed it. It took off all the bugs and road grime and now looks great. Still has some chips but a little touch up paint fixed that.

 

mbogosia

The main reason that I didn't mention clay bars, good and effective though they are, is that generally the amount of "bug-stuff" that I think CaptGuz is talkng about will pollute a clay bar very quickly and at $25 a pop there are more cost effective methodes that work as well.

I try to be conscientious of expense when I make recommendations. Try another method first and finish with a good claying and you should then enjoy effective and economical.

 

I was thinking the same thing about gettin the clay bar poluted... but still a good suggestion and i really do need to do that as well after i get paid! ugh i'm gonna be broke