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MY 351 is currently burning about a quart of oil every 1000 miles or so, its not leaking anywhere because it has all new gaskets oil pump etc..., anyway, what i dont understand is why its burning oil at only 91,000 miles, the motor has absolutely no sludge or buildup in it??? what do yall think? the truck has been very we;ll taken care of also when will it be time to rebuild or do that 460/4spd swap =)
1985 F-150/351Ho/4wd
many mods
on a quiet night your can hear the chevys rusting away
My father bought a new black and Silver 1986 F-150 in 86 that had the 5.8L HO and a C-6. It started using at about 20k and used 2 quarts every 3k. It has over 200k now, and is still using 2 quarts every 3k. (We don't own it). I am not sure why, but it could have something to do with the roller cam. BTW, what size and type of oil are you using?
Pastmaster's 1993 XLT 5.0 E40d 3.55LS Normal Cab/Long bed Loaded from the factory with aid of...MSd 6a ign/s.p. wires, blaster coil, Hypertech Chip, K&N filtercharger, Cat-back dual exhuast w/o mufflers, 3.5", echo tips, Accel distributor cap, Dark Mocha over light mocha. 5% Dark tint, Alpine Cd player/remote, Pioneer speakers.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 18-Oct-00 AT 11:33 PM (EST)[/font][p]
Yea i thought it was odd because the truck and the insides of the motor are in wonderful shape, i know the history of the truck and its all highwaymiles mostly under65 mph, anyway i am running havoline 10w30 now, but when it gets really hot (about 85 and up) i switch to havoline 20w50 which is usually about 3-4 months during the summer by the way havoline has been run in it ever since the first oil change
Maybe i will try doin a compression test and seeing what i get
1985 F-150/351Ho/4wd
many mods
on a quiet night your can hear the chevys rusting away
Oil burning 101
Three major possiblities of oil burning that doesn't really affect how the vehicle runs:
1. PVC valve stuck open or closed. This will either force oil past the oil control rings and into the combustion chamber (CC) or constantly burn off the vapors.
2. Stuck oil control rings. The oil control rings on one or more pistons can become lodged in the ring lands and oil will not be adequately removed from the piston walls during the down stroke. This will show up as a low reading on the comp test or fouled plugs.
3. Bad valve seals. This will show up as either a big puff of smoke upon first start in the morning, or when you engine brake at higher rpms. The higher manifold vacuum will literally suck the oil right out of the head.
There are other ways the oil can get in, but they would really effect drivability, i.e. Head gasket, worn piston walls, broken ring land, bad piston, clogged oil drain holes, etc. All of which will ahve other drivability symptoms associated with them.
i do know that my valve seals are worn because if u rev it up to about 4,000 in neutral, it smokes for about 2 secs after u let off, that would not cause it to burn a quart aboout every 1000 miles would it? besides i hardly ever rev it past 2500
1985 F-150/351Ho/4wd
many mods
on a quiet night your can hear the chevys rusting away
It will burn that fast if the seals are bad. Because even when you do not see the blue smoke, the truck is still buring the oil. At every shift up and down the truck takes another sip of the oil. You're lucky its only a quart per 1000, I've seen 1 quart per 300 miles of city driving. Now that's bad.
My father and I each bought new F-150 Lariats in 1989 w the 5.0 / 5 speed combination. Both trucks used about a quart of oil every 1000 miles from day one. I put over 150,000 miles on mine, and it never changed. I still own the one my father bought(now has only 38,000 miles), and it still uses the same amount. (I also owned a 5.8 with the same problem.) I contacted Ford when our '89's were still fairly new, and was told that because of their use of "low tension" oil rings to improve fuel economy, some oil consumption was to be expected. The Ford rep said that they considered a quart in 800 miles to be acceptable. The 5.8 worked much better with synthetic 5W-50 in it - (10w-30 would go right through it!!!)
I think they were handing you a load there. 1 quart in 800 miles is ludicrous. I have an 88 302/5 speed and it burns zero oil. I run 10W30 regular oil. No vehicle should ever burn oil if it is properly designed and built.
As for the low tension rings for better mileage, I just gotta laugh. The compression rings are designed to seal the combustion chamber, if they don't then you are wasting power and thus getting worse mileage. How can more loose rings actually translate to better mileage? Thats a load of crap.
No vehicle I own burns oil and no vehicle designed since the late 80's is allowed to burn oil due to the stringent EPA regulations on emissions.
If your truck is burning oil, something is wrong with it. You may decide to live with it, but don't be fooled into believeing that it was designed to do that (unless its diesel, whole different story there).
Randy
88 F-150, 122K miles, no oil burning.
88 Honda CRX Si racer 233K miles, no oil burning.
95 Nissan Altima SE 78K miles, no oil burning.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 20-Oct-00 AT 10:31 PM (EST)[/font][p]Thanks for the good positive and helpful responce RGAZ, oh billyo was talking about the oil rings, all they do is get rid of excessive oil so there is not an excessive amount left on the cylinder walls to getpast the rings, they dont hold any kind of compression, if the rings are a bit looser than usual like billyo said then a little oil could be seeping past the compression rings therefore i would be burning oil, but i dont know nothin
1985 F-150/351Ho/4wd
many mods
on a quiet night your can hear the chevys rusting away
I agree that a quart in 800 miles is bad, but that was the criteria that was used at that time to decide whether a warranty overhaul would be done. I had two that used a quart about every 1000 miles, and most others that I knew of with these trucks had the same problem. The trucks otherwise ran so good thatI just decided that I would just add a quart between changes rather than having my local dealer's guys tearing down the engine. (Seemed like the right thing at the time - I needed my truck, and I knew their mechanics). I know that the oil rings don't affect compression, but the claim of increased economy came from the reduced friction. (It probably did help, but you probably needed a million dollar piece of test equipment to tell the difference!) Also, what it saved in gas, it burned in oil! Anyway, you're absolutely correct that they should not burn any oil - but most of them did.
BillyO
That's interesting info, I have a 89 and a 93 both equipped with the 5.0's, and my father has had several as well, and none have ever used any oil. Even way up to 160,000.
What weight oil and type do you use?
Pastmaster's 1993 XLT 5.0 E40d 3.55LS Normal Cab/Long bed Loaded from the factory with aid of...MSd 6a ign/s.p. wires, blaster coil, Hypertech Chip, K&N filtercharger, Cat-back dual exhuast w/o mufflers, 3.5", echo tips, Accel distributor cap, Dark Mocha over light mocha. 5% Dark tint, Alpine Cd player/remote, Pioneer speakers.
>10 W 30 Pennzoil. I
>may switch to 10 W
>40. I really don't drive
>it enough to matter (38,000
>miles in 12 years).
>
>O
Have you always used Pennzoil? Did the oil consumption start when you switched?
I myself, and close others, have never had good luck with pennzoil. On anything, that we've ran it in. In 12 years, that very low mileage, what is that like an oil change every 2-3 years? Im sure that might be a cause to. You might consider running a different brand of oil...
Just my 2 cents worth.
Pastmaster's 1993 XLT 5.0 E40d 3.55LS Normal Cab/Long bed Loaded from the factory with aid of...MSd 6a ign/s.p. wires, blaster coil, Hypertech Chip, K&N filtercharger, Cat-back dual exhuast w/o mufflers, 3.5", echo tips, Accel distributor cap, Dark Mocha over light mocha. 5% Dark tint, Alpine Cd player/remote, Pioneer speakers.