Thanks for the information. When the engine is good and warmed up, I also have a dragging starter problem with this old Ford as well. I have replaced the starter, installed a heat shield, but the problem still remains. I just bought a spray can of CRC Electrical Cleaner and plan to clean as many of the electrical connectors under the hood as I can today. I tend to believe some of my problems are related to dirty electrical connection(s), however, I know the previous owner gutted the truck's large single catalytic convertor so he may have disconnected other things in the emissions system. I'm thinking the lack of a catyltic converter may be some of the problem (lack of sufficient back pressure). Last summer I changed the EEC module but there was no change.

Thanks again for the info on the 460s not having a MAF. Each time I think I may have zeroed in on one of my problems with this truck, it proves for naught. If I can't get the major problem of this truck stranding me out on the Interstate straightened out this summer, the old girl will be offered to the deer and elk hunting boys this fall. I'd keep it for this purpose but I'm just too old to climb those NM peaks anymore.

At the least my old Ford 8n tractors (built from 1947-1952) do not have electronic brains. An ordered application of spark, compression and gasoline is all they require to work hard all day.

 

Made it to work without incident. Which is par for the course I'll try and get out at lunch and see if it starts. If the pattern is what it has been it won't start.

 

After some more cking, you maybe actually close to what it is thats failing. I'm trying to verify if the PIP signal that fires the injectors is sent out of the distributor. My TIF is remote mounted away from distributor.

The reason it runs on starting fluid is its being introduced to the combustion chamber through the throttle plates. The injectors have to be told to fire and when its not starting the injectors are not firing.

Replacing the hall effects switch requires dismantling the dizzy. And a reman is only about 70 bucks. So in sake of saving labor I'll probably just stuff the reman in it and see what happens.

 

Having checked your fuel pump pressures, you seem to already know that many, if not most, of the 1990 Ford 460s had serious problems with their in-tank fuel pumps. I am checking further on this issue but Ford may have even put out a bulletin on this problem. As I have just learned from looking around the internet, the symptoms of failing in-tank pumps are exactly what I am experiencing with my F250, i.e., stalling on hot days but starting again after a "cooling off" period, problem sometimes seemingly resolved when cool gasoline is added to the tank. Although I am not adverse to dropping both tanks and replacing the failing pumps, I wonder if it is possible to simply add an external fuel pump somewhere along the frame? More research on my part is needed.

 

sounds to me like it could be vapor lock (fuel getting too hot and vaporizing inside the fuel line). Check to make sure the fuel lines arent running close to a manifold, exhaust, or something that is heating it up.

 

Injected engines don't have the same propensity for "vapor lock" that carburated engines did. When you are all said and done with the above take the IAC off and clean it with carb cleaner and get a new temp sensor for the computer.

 

Thanks for the reply. Having experienced vapor lock in 1950/60s cars, this is exactly what it seemed like to me when the truck first stalled two summers ago. As I recall at that time, I also had thought heat from the manifold was causing my starter dragging problem and, checking for that problem, I did find that much of the original foil insulation on the right side of the engine has been damaged or is missing entirely. I only drive this truck about 6,000 per year trailoring small tractors. For the past two summers the truck's numerous other problems has kept me distracted from the stalling problem so I had yet to pursue the possibility of vapor lock too any real extent. Since I purchased the truck, I have had to do a lot of work on it that had been neglected by the previous owner. I have replaced a front disc caliper that was sticking and had worn the brake rotor wafer-thin, repaired an exhaust system where the tail pipes were dragging the ground, replaced the four different brands of tires the guy had been running, replaced broken interior door handles and lost dash *****, repaired worn out power window motors, had a little paint and body work done on the bed, and much more. I've had my hands full but I've got to drive the truck from Albuquerque to west Texas this next week and it will give me a chance to look at things again. I have a shop in west Texas where I can check the possibility of vapor lock more closely this next week. Thanks for reminding me that I had never followed up on this possibility.

 

In regard to vapor lock, this was sort of my thinking what with the pressure that is required in the fuel lines of a fuel-injected system.

Would you happen to know where the idle air control is located on the 460 F.I.? Also I might ask if the temperature sensor for the computer that you mentioned is the IAT sensor that measures the temperature of the incoming air?

 

The IAC is under the throttle body intake and looks like a cylinder which sits across a two bolt flange and has an electrical connector on one end. It tends to gum up badly and I clean as part of my semi-annual bonding with my 460. Use carb cleaner and an old tooth brush. Although on some older trucks with hard set carbon, etc, it may require a soft brass brush.
The temp sensor is just to the right of the thermostat housing and protrudes into the manifold water chamber. Hope this helps. Note: make sure to wrap sensor in teflon tape when replacing to avoid leakage.
If none of this seems to be the culprit, I'd check the EGR system next. Good luck.

 

Hm! Thought I had replied but not sure what I did as my reply never showed up. If you get two replies just disregard one.
Anyway, thanks for the quick reply. I will try and check these items out this afternoon if the weather holds up. It will be Monday before I can get any new parts but as soon as I get things back together and check it out I will post some results.

 

I pulled the IAC today but found it to be fairly clean. I sprayed it with carb cleaner, lightly scrubbing what I could reach with a toothbrush, then swooshing the cleaner around inside numerous times. It looked pretty good when I put it back on. I'll get a new temp sensor tomorrow and test run the truck on the 250 mile trip from Albuquerque to west Texas this Tuesday.

One thing I failed to mention before. I noticed it again as I was working under the hood today. I seem to be losing a very small amount of antifreeze each time I drive any distance. I never see anything on the ground but I first noticed this two summers ago and have just watched my water level very closely when on longer trips. Also, occasionally I get the strong smell of antifreeze after only driving a mile or so to the post office yet I see no leaks. I had to add about a quart of antifreeze today and I know I filled the overflow tank to the cold-fill line just before I drove to Albuquerque from west Texas two weeks ago. This all could indeed be something to do with that temp sensor you mentioned. However, whenever the truck has stalled in the past the temperature gauge has been normal so overheating doesn't appear to be causing the stalling.

Yes, I know this old truck has a lot of problems and I probably should think about replacing it. However, even with 149,000 miles on it, that big 460 pulls my Ford 8n tractors across Texas and New Mexico like they weren't even back there.

 

Check your heater core closely. Also check the hoses thoroughly as they might have a pinhole which is evaporating before it drops to the ground. Same with the radiator, check the crossmember/pan underneath it. How long has it been since you've replaced the radaitor cap? Cheap item to take off your mind as a culprit. My 460 has 246,500 on it and pulls the gooseneck with three horses and all the water/feed/gear needed with no problem. I also use a product called ProBlend 4033 in the summer months when the ambient temp is way up. It makes a difference during high stress towing in 100° heat hauling the horses or a flatbed trailer loaded with hay. I credit that mixture and the trans cooler/maintenance with the longevity towing.

 

Thought I would update the thread I swapped out the distributor on Saturday and everything seems to be going just fine

Thanks for the help

 

with 35 psi at the rail you have a good fuel pump i would look to my fuel regulator on the rail or leaking injectors if the regulator is bad it allows to much gas back to the tank and not enough pressure to be held in the rail to keep the engine running. you can check the pulse on your injectors you have to get the kit from your local auto parts store or ask your snap on dude.

these are things i have seen go bad in fuel injection systems