orifice tube
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Maryland
orifice tube
I will be replacing the compressor/clutch, accumilator, and orifice tube on my 94 F-150, 302. The parts store gives a choice in color for the orifice tube, one is red, the other I believe blue.
Is there a way to know which one without taking apart the system?
Also, do I need to drain the freon before disassembly?
Any special tools required for the any of the fittings?
My clutch is making a loud rattling sound, if I choose to temporarily bypass it, does anyone know what size serpentine belt I would need?
Thanks for the anticipated responses!
Is there a way to know which one without taking apart the system?
Also, do I need to drain the freon before disassembly?
Any special tools required for the any of the fittings?
My clutch is making a loud rattling sound, if I choose to temporarily bypass it, does anyone know what size serpentine belt I would need?
Thanks for the anticipated responses!
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 550
Likes: 1
From: Effingham,IL USA
dont open the system without having it discharged first its under high pressure and will freeze you if you open a line with a charge in it. i would go to an ac shop and have em discharge it. ask if they will do it for free a lot of places will cause they can resale your refridgerant to somebody else. dont open the accumulator until you are ready to hook it up it absorbs moisture and will go bad fast after you open it from the package. you can buy a non ac serp belt from the parts store to temp. bypass the compressor. make sure you put the right amopunt of pag oil in the new compressor if it doesnt have any in it. once again make sure you have the system discharged you dont EVER wanna open a system thats charged.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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I just went through the same process.
You can measure the bypass distance by marking your old belt.
I threaded my old belt bypassing the compressor, and simply measured the distance.
Take the measurement to napa and tell them the size, and your truck specs and they will match it up. My 7.3 PSD bypass belt cost $67.
You will want to have your system evacuated, and recharged at the same place, so you will only have to pay for any added refrigerant.
The cost to evacuate my system was $90, and they quoted another $90 + additional refrigerant needed, to recharge the system.
You can measure the bypass distance by marking your old belt.
I threaded my old belt bypassing the compressor, and simply measured the distance.
Take the measurement to napa and tell them the size, and your truck specs and they will match it up. My 7.3 PSD bypass belt cost $67.
You will want to have your system evacuated, and recharged at the same place, so you will only have to pay for any added refrigerant.
The cost to evacuate my system was $90, and they quoted another $90 + additional refrigerant needed, to recharge the system.
Last edited by arjr111; Apr 14, 2005 at 12:13 PM.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 70
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From: Maryland
oldfordtrucksrule/arjr111, thanks for the replies
I just did that today arjr111 (unfortunately there was no listing for a non-ac truck) I measured bypassing the pully, it wound up being 7.5 inches shorter so I went to advance auto parts and bought a belt that much shorter than the factory replacement; had it on in 15 minutes, now I can take my time replacing the compressor.
I just did that today arjr111 (unfortunately there was no listing for a non-ac truck) I measured bypassing the pully, it wound up being 7.5 inches shorter so I went to advance auto parts and bought a belt that much shorter than the factory replacement; had it on in 15 minutes, now I can take my time replacing the compressor.
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