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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

replacing door hinge pins

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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 10:36 PM
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replacing door hinge pins

What is the easy way (if there is one) to replace the hinge pins on my 56
Thanks for the help
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 10:41 PM
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I think to replace the pins on these trucks you have to drill it out. Maybe find a used set of hinges?

Ron
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 10:48 PM
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Thanks for the comeback...I know that Dennis Carpenter makes complete
new hinges for $75.00 each but that is a little too much money..All 4 of my hinges are worn and need to be replaced..I am looking for the easiest way to get the pins out and replace them...
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 11:07 PM
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I don't know how similar the 56 hinges are to '48-52, but this is one of the nastiest jobs there is. Plus I bought a set of new pins from Dennis Carpenter, and the damn things stuck tight with about 1/2" to go!! There is a real risk of damaging the door frame from whupping on them, so it is better if you can get them off the truck (usually presents new problems, as the screws rust in place). Seems to me the best attack (provided your truck isn't painted, or the hinges are off the truck) is the "hot wrench". Penetrating oil just doesn't seem to get deep enough in there. There are pin extractors made and they might be a good deal, they clamp over the hinge and push the pin out. Trouble is, if it's really stuck, you mushroom the part that is sticking out and then you're screwed.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 07:41 AM
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I recently changed the pins in my hinges (56). I marked each hinge before I removed them from the truck so I could put them back in the same location. If your truck is finished and the doors fit properly now I would also index the locations before removal by drilling two 1/8" holes in each hinge near the bolt locations so you can reinstall exactly where they were.

I then took the hinges off the truck and doors. Bought a short piece of threaded 3/4" pipe and a floor flange. Set the pipe/flr flange on the concrete floor of the garage and using a heavy hammer and punch removed the old pins. The old pins came out rather easy once they began to move. It helps to have someone hold the hinge while you drive the pin out.

I purchased replacement pins from MidFifty, about $2.50 plus S&H. The new pins are oversized so you need to drill out the hinge pin holes on a drill press. I drilled 11/32" holes in the swinging part of the hinge (the part that attaches to the door). You want this part to move on the pin but without being sloppy. I used a 21/64" drill bit for the other holes and reamed them out slightly. I then drove the new pins in using the same method as removing them. One was very stubborn at the last 1/4" so I heated the hole with the torch. These are generic pins so you also have to cut them to length. It helps to grind a small chamfer or taper on the end. You may also need to ream the hole slightly if it is too small after drilling. You will know this if the pin refuses to drive in without too much resistance.

There is a reinforcement washer (couldn't think of a better term) on each side of the hinge where the pin seats. Be careful when driving the pins out (and in) that this washer is against the pipe for support so that you don't accidently break the spot welds and it comes off.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 07:07 PM
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I have a 50 and the penetrating oil didnt work and I didnt have a torch so I countersunk the bottom end of each pin and then punched them out.easy enough for me but I wasnt going to re-use any of my pins.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 08:04 PM
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Correction on the size of the pipe and floor flange I used, it was 1/2" not 3/4".
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 09:45 PM
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Thanks everyone for the information..I thought it was not going to be one of
those 15 minute jobs that take all day and by the info received now I know it is not....I have one hinge off of the truck and hopefully this weekend will get a chance to try some of your solutions I will let you know how it works out
Thanks
 
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Old Apr 29, 2005 | 11:02 PM
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door hinge pins

Thanks to everyone who replied about changing the door hinge pins
Used a little of everyones knowledge and the job turned out not being a nightmare.
Found some pins at Carlisle swap meet that were oversized...Purchased a drill bit as close as possible to the size. Bought an adjustable reamer to clean up the holes and put the new pins in...
The old pins came out of these hinges fairly easy. Thank goodness
Thanks again everyone
Kenny
 
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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 12:22 PM
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Bought two hinge pin kits at Auto Zone. Stabilized the hinge pins with long nosed locking pliers, cut the pins in half with Dremel tool, drilled out hinge pin holes to size of the brass inserts, put the whole thing back togather and it works great. I am amazed! Took a long time, most of the day per side.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2005 | 10:15 PM
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after spending about an hour on the first pin I took them to the local machine shop where they took pity on me and pressed all four out, measured and reamed the hole for the new oversized pins all for 20.00. Made my day.

Don
 
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Old May 1, 2005 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by don1077
after spending about an hour on the first pin I took them to the local machine shop where they took pity on me and pressed all four out, measured and reamed the hole for the new oversized pins all for 20.00. Made my day.

Don
Don,

Great idea. It doesn't take long to accumulate $20 worth of frustration with skinned knuckles and damaged doors...

Vern
 
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Old May 3, 2005 | 07:10 AM
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It took me about an hour for the first one and 15 min for the second one, this truck is not painted, puch the center of the top of the pin, get a machinest centering drill large body with a small drill bit tip drill a small indentation and then drill with the largest drill bit that does not drill into the body of the hinge, drill down about 1/2 in if possible and get a drift punch that fits the drilled hole and hammer down and the knurled portion at the top will fold in and will drive straight down easily. for me it did, on both Ed ke6bnl
 
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Old Jul 2, 2005 | 12:38 PM
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OK, I am going to a you pull salvage yard to pick up a couple of spare doors for my 1950. They appear to be in good shape and $30.00 each. It is a 30 mile drive and I don't want to come home empty handed. The 1950 Ford truck hinges are welded on the truck side so easy removal is not an option.
On my parts truck I just cut the door hinges with a saws all on the truck side and kept the entire hinge and extra piece on the door. The problem is I do not have a cordless sawsall or a torch to do this at the salvage yard.
I have two 14.4 Dewalt cordless drills and a center drill bit. I could try to drill the center out and use a punch to drive it out. What do you think the success rate would be? Would I drain the batteries before I finished? I can also buy a cordless sawsall with out the accessories on Ebay for $100.00. I know the success rate would be 100% the hinges cut like butter.
Do I get a saws all and cut the door hinge? Should I try and drill it out at there?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2005 | 01:38 PM
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Has anyone tried chilling the pin and heating the hinge? I happen to have liquid nitrogen handy, but I suspect one could utilize dry ice which is more readily available. By expanding the hole and shrinking the pin they should fit together more easily. I've heard of this being done when you replace kingpins, but have not had the opportunity to try it myself just yet.

Fox
 
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