bleeding brakes
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 620
Likes: 8
From: USA
Well, don't do it unless you're POSITIVE you've covered all the bases. The light did come on for a reason so I don't recommend just unplugging it unless you feel comfortable in doing so.
On mine, it's located on the inside of the frame, left side of truck. Just follow your brake lines from the master cylinder down. You will come to a brass block that they all go into. On the front side of the block there is a wire plug that goes into the indicator switch. Unplugging it will turn off the light even though the switch is still depressed.
At this point you can also remove that switch to make sure it's working correctly.
Jordan
On mine, it's located on the inside of the frame, left side of truck. Just follow your brake lines from the master cylinder down. You will come to a brass block that they all go into. On the front side of the block there is a wire plug that goes into the indicator switch. Unplugging it will turn off the light even though the switch is still depressed.
At this point you can also remove that switch to make sure it's working correctly.
Jordan
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 480
Likes: 1
From: Elyria, Ohio
1981 F250 4WD
I replaced everything on my braking system and bleed 8 quarts through it over time. The light always stayed on no matter what. I finally unscrewed the switch (hex fitting, I think it was 9/16") on the prop valve. Cleaned it up with WD40 and wire brushed (small brass toothbrush, home depot) the shaft and blew it out with air. There was alot of gritty junk in the switch under the cap of switch. No brake fluid comes out when you do this. There is a plunger or shaft that moves up and down in the switch housing to make electrical contact. That was 4 weeks ago and the light is still out. I also created a fault by opening up a bleeder and it causes the light to come on; but goes out again when closed. It goes through self test on engine startup with a flash then out.
I replaced everything on my braking system and bleed 8 quarts through it over time. The light always stayed on no matter what. I finally unscrewed the switch (hex fitting, I think it was 9/16") on the prop valve. Cleaned it up with WD40 and wire brushed (small brass toothbrush, home depot) the shaft and blew it out with air. There was alot of gritty junk in the switch under the cap of switch. No brake fluid comes out when you do this. There is a plunger or shaft that moves up and down in the switch housing to make electrical contact. That was 4 weeks ago and the light is still out. I also created a fault by opening up a bleeder and it causes the light to come on; but goes out again when closed. It goes through self test on engine startup with a flash then out.
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