i am learning all this stuff. I have a good concept of motors and how they work, the parts, how they come apart and go back together.

just this matching parts one by one i have never done b4 (still learning on all of that)

 

Matching parts is the key, and Rusty has agood handle on that. You don't want to be buying parts over and over again ike I have.....

As for hiding things from the misses. My wife is a Big Shot Lawyer, with an undergrad in finance and an excellent knowledge of computers and software....Luckily, she claims that she would rather not know what all this cost. It w0uld probably give her a heart attack.

 

Rusty, how many miles to the gallon does that 390 get you and what grade of gas? Auto or manual trans, gear ratio and tire diameter? Nuff questions?

Carl....=o&o>....

 

For the motor kit, probably your best bet would be to walk into a Napa store (I know, just bite the bullet and do it) and have 'em order you a kit. It will take a while, my local store can get just about anything within a week. The kit for a 1973 Ford 360, including pistons, would probably be the best one to get. Bearings and everything is the same as the 390, just use your 390 crank and rods.

The 750cfm would gain you 10hp above the 600cfm, according to desktop dyno. Probably not enough to offset the gas mileage you will lose.

Concerning the cam, desktop dyno shows that you actually lose horsepower with the 344341 compared to the 343941. It would also idle worse, and get worse gas mileage. It is a single pattern cam, and the stock heads need more exhaust duration and lift than the intake.

You would have to go with the adjustable valvetrain if you want solid valve lifters. Then, you'd have to select a solid lifter cam. Then, you'd have to take the valve covers off and adjust lash every 20,000 miles. You'd also need shell type valve lifters, or block off the hydraulic lifter galleries. Personally, I dont think it's worth it, considering the great hydraulic profiles available today.

The 427 type adjustable valvetrain is a setup where you use different type of rocker arm (stock for some 427's and 352's with solid cam's) with adjusting bolts on the back, with a ball on the bottom. The pushrods used are 9.157" with a ball on the lifter end and a cup on the rocker end. The adjusting nut is then used to accurately set lifter preload. This can compensate for valvetrain inconsistency.

I'd estimate about 15mpg on this 390. Reason I say estimate, is I have larger tires on it, and never had the speedometer recalibrated. Therefore, the odometer doesn't turn as far per mile, so it's kind of hard to figure. I have a 9" open diff with 3.50 gears, and P265/75R15 tires. I can stomp it at 20mph, have it downshift to first, and the tire(s) will roast back through to second. If I stomp it from a stoplight, and it actually hooks (rare) it will give quite a good peel when it shifts into second, and a nice chirp into third. (shift kit's are nice) The motor is a beast.

I am running 91 octane right now, but I have the pinging problem solved, so I'll be going back to 89 shortly to see what happens. I do have fuel injection on this, and I had it running at stoichiometric (14.7 parts air to 1 part gasoline) and it didn't like that too well. I set it to run a little rich, and that solved my pinging. With a carb, you shouldn't have a problem. You might have to buy 89 instead of 87 though.

 

I second not using edelbrock cams. I have a client that runs a hp shop- they built a fellow racer a 460 (tow vehicle) using all edelbrock parts- followed their recommendation for spring etc and the cam flattened in under 2k miles and ruined the motor. The shop tested the hardness and it was below spec and edelbrock still denied the claim ...theres more bs to the story but you get the idea. I like their carbs and intake....no cam though. This was within past 3 months.

 

why use pistons from a 360 and not from a 390?



I am not worried about the gas milage as long as i have got a 22 gallon tank and a building to park it in. This is not my daily driver so no need to worry about that.

 

360 pistons with a 390 crank will result in a higher compression ratio than a stock truck 390. Actually, it's like building a stock car 390. The higher compression helps with power, mileage, cam selection etc.

 

They told me that they can order the kit from Clevite.

Is Clevite any good?

 

these are the performance kits that they have listed


Make Cyl CID Metric From To Note

Ford Performance 8 390 6.4 1961 1971 Hyd. Cam 214 Duration, .510" Lift

Ford Performance 8 390 6.4 1961 1971 Hyd. Cam 214 Duration, .510" Lift

Ford Performance 8 390 6.4 1961 1971 Hyd. Cam 218 Duration, .528" Lift

Ford Performance 8 390 6.4 1961 1971 Hyd. Cam 218 Duration, .528" Lift (with anti-pump-up lifters)

It looks like these kit above here are just the 16 lifters, cam, and assy. lube



MK2185P
Description PartNumber Size Qty
Ring 40134 1
Rod Bearing CB-760P 8
Gasket 95-3359VR 1
Gasket MS15521X 1
Main Bearing MS-863P 1
Lifters / Followers 213-1669 16
Cam Bearing SH-781S 1
Camshaft 229-1633 1
Timing 9-3012 1
Piston TC1831 8
Oil Pump 601-1055 1
Exp Plugs 219-9422 1
Assy. Pack Z202 1
Box Z202R 1

I am not stupid. I have just never had to buy a kit before.

what else will i need? i think that i am missing something

the kit listed above is the they have listed as MK2185P

it says that it is the Premium kit they have?

does anyone know anything about this kit?

Rusty,
i am also going to order that intake and that carb (600or 750 CFM) I am aslo going to get some long tube headers to go on it. Will that conflict with this kit

 

I wouldn't get the kit with the cam. Those cams look like they suck, IMO. Dont get a kit with a cam, get a kit for a 1970's F100 with a 360, without the cam. If you have to get a different kit and get the pistons separate, then do it. Just dont get the kit with the cam.

Clevite is good, but dont use their cam. It probably isn't theirs anyway, it's probably a Melling or something.

Dont get the kit with the cam, get the Crane 343941 instead.

Have I made myself clear?

The 360 pistons are really just high compression car 390 pistons. Same thing. Ordering a kit for a 360 just makes it simpler.

Edit: A good carburetor and headers would only help. I would use a 600cfm Holley vacuum secondary, but if you want to use a 600cfm Edelbrock that would be fine too. 750cfm is too much for this motor, leave that to the racers.

 

Split the difference on carb size and go to a Holley SA 670. I found that the new 670's fuel better than the Holley 600's 1850 carbs. Even after rejetting (going richer on primary i'm up 1.2 mpg vs the 1850, could never run a 1850 as lean without problems.

Carl....=o&o>....

 

Ok so i will get the kit with out the cam
thanks Rusty

I will get that crane 941 cam

will i be able to use the push rods i already have. as long as the are not bent and with in specs

 

You should be able to use the pushrods you have now, assuming the rest of the valvetrain is in good shape AND the base circle of the 941 cam is the same as the stock cam, which I think it is. Call up Crane Cams and ask them if the base circle of the 343941 cam is the same as the stock cam.

You will want to get matching springs, and new lifters.

 

I am going to get a kit for a 360 truck i know that. ( i figured a 1968 f-100 with a 360)

this a list of the kit from Summit

Brand: Speed Pro
Product Line: Federal Mogul Engine Rebuild Kits
Pistons Included: Yes
Piston Material: Hypereutectic aluminum
Piston Style: Flat
Piston Rings Included: Yes
Piston and Ring Oversize (in): 0.060 in.
Rod Bearings Included: Yes
Rod Bearing Undersize (in): 0.010 in.
Rod Bearing Undersize (mm): 0.25mm
Main Bearings Included: Yes
Main Bearing Undersize (in): 0.010 in.
Main Bearing Undersize (mm): 0.25mm
Cam Bearings Included: Yes
Gaskets Included: Yes
Oil Pump Included: Yes
Oil Pump Volume: Standard volume
Oil Pump Drive Shaft Included: No
Freeze Plugs Included: Yes
Camshaft Included: No
Lifters Included: Yes
Timing Chain and Gears Included: No
Assembly Lubricant Included: Yes
Plastigauge Included: Yes
Quantity: Sold as a kit.


what is the difference in the dish, flat and dome pistons?

The piston material Hypereutectic aluminum ?

I am not going to use that oil pump ia m going to get that high volume oild pump like rusty said to?

Is this name brand any good from summit or go back to clevite?

I will pick up a timing chain and cam from crane along with the valve springs to match that 941 cam.

i am on a roll now thanks to all for your help?
but i still have some questions tho

 

The high volume pump isn't that critical. As long as your rocker assemblies are in good condition and you put restrictors in the oil passage to the rockers, you should be fine with the stock pump.

The difference between a dish, flat, and dome piston is what the top looks like. A dish has a dish in the top, lowering compression ratio. The top of a flat piston is just that, flat, possibly with valve reliefs. The ones you're getting sound like good ones. A dome piston has a dome that sticks up into the combustion chamber and raises the compression ratio.

Hypereutectic is one step up from cast, below forged. They run tight cylinder wall to piston clearances, and as such are very quiet. They are also stronger than regular cast.

Federal Mogul makes good stuff, if you can get a deal on that kit go for it.

I would have figured it for a 1972 - 1976 360, but that should be fine. Reason is, that some early 360's had full skirt pistons that will not work with the 390 crank, but I'm sure those aren't made anymore by anybody, so the kit should include the right ones.