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It sounds like you may want to do something similar to my build:
Holley 700cfm Commander 950 Programmable TBI EFI - you could probably get away with a 600cfm Holley vacuum secondary, but the EFI is nice
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
Ported C7AE-A heads, polished chambers - your heads, ported and polished, will work just fine
TRW L2291F30 pistons - forged, a regular 360 piston should work, block C6ME-A, .030" over - again, use your block, my casting number is just for reference
390 crank, rods, ARP rod bolts
427 type adjustable valvetrain to accurately set lifter preload
Crane 343941 cam
Cloyes street true roller timing set, cam installed straight up
HV oil pump, ARP shaft
If its not going to be raced, use an Edelbrock Performer intake, 600cfm edel. carb, mild cam, hv oil pump, and hv water pump. (Edelbrock has a nice dyno matched package), and a good valve job.
I used: northerautoparts.com and
jegs.com so far.
Right now I am running premium pump gas. It does ping with 89 or 87. With the premium, it only pings a little when the vacuum advance is fully in at lower rpm's, around 2000rpm, and then only on a hot day. I am running the Holley fuel injection, and have that set for 14.7:1 air / fuel ratio, which I will probably change soon. With a carburetor, you could probably set it up a little rich and run 89 or even 87 no problem.
our fuel rating around here is 87,89, and 93. I dont mind building something that has to run on 93 because thats what i run now in all my stuff. I am not sure when i want to build this motor but it will be soon.
What should i look for in a good kit and about what should it cost? (i want new pistons and all that)
I wouldnt bother withe the fuel injection, im sure its aweseome and all, but itll blow your budjet as it costs aroun $1000 bucks.
Heres my build
Stock rotating assembly
Ford 4bbl Intake
Holley 600cfm 4bbl carb
Crane 901 Cam -.501/.533 lift 204/216 duration
Headers and dual exhaust of course
The engine has great throttle response and power, burnng the tires is a little too easy. I also am running a 4spd granny manual trans, make sure to replace the cluctch disc while its out, my old one was wore out real bad. Also check the condition of the flywheel, it may need to be resurfaced. The total cost of the project with block machining and head work, was about $1200, half of tha cost is machine work, the other half it parts.
BTW, that cost does not include things like the cherry picker, engine stand, parts washer, and other tools needed for a rebuild. It is going to be very expensive no matter what you do.
Forget about making a 390 a 428, its not worth the extra bucks, with gaining just a little
more horsepower. Spend it getting Balanced and blueprited if you've got extra money.
ok then i will stick with the 390. I am fine with that. Just the kit that i find form summit is only a re-ring kit, jegs i have not found a kit. Napa has this
try northernautoparts.com - for 130 bucks you get rod, main and complete gasket set. 8.99 shipping.
they also have master kit for??? 300 something I think. what I did was order that one, then buy
higher comp. pistons. (9.5-1) master kit only gives you the stock low 8.3 to one comp., and had the
machine shop put new cam bearings and freeze plugs in it.
Well.... I don't know if I agree that it's not worth it (making a 390 to a 428). That just all depends on how much money you have to spend, time, and what kind of power your after. Putting a 410/428 crank in your 390 block makes it anywhere from 410 cubic inches to 422 cubic inches ( 390 bored .060 over with 410/428 crank makes the 422). Personally I wouldn't bore your block any farther than it needs ( usually .030) if it needs it at all. Just my .02 cents though