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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

T98 4 spd shifter

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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 10:13 PM
  #16  
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Well Madathlon, I'v got a F-5 dump.
A T-98 would be lots better than the un-sync-ed 4 speed in there now.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 10:14 PM
  #17  
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Thanks 57 and 58
 
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 10:15 PM
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Yes Id agree with U on that one reamer
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 11:25 AM
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The shift lever in the T-98 has a screw on cap that attaches it to the top of the transmission plate. It is a right hand thread and you might need apair of channel ocks to loosen it up. There is a spring under the cap. The shift lever should "wiggle" loose after you unscrew the cap. You should be able to take the shift lever out without removing the floor pan. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 06:48 PM
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FOWL1: Mine welded. I just looked about a hour ago.. there real nice tig welds by the look of it, But there welded in my case atlest..
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:27 PM
  #21  
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Isn't the T-98 the same as a T-18? I know the shifter on a T-18 pops out by unscrewing the cap on top of the trans and then pulling out the little roll pin.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 09:35 PM
  #22  
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Now Ron, you mean to say you aren't into the finer art of double clutching to get the F-5 down the road. I have fond memories of double clutching my dad's F-5 grain truck. Yes in all seriousness it does get old after a while and that is why I'm putting and AOD in the 50 panel when the time comes.

Gear Up
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 11:55 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by reamer
Well Madathlon, I'v got a F-5 dump.
A T-98 would be lots better than the un-sync-ed 4 speed in there now.
From what I have read, I was under the impression the F5 and F6 had the syncro trans in them ???

Rod
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 05:37 AM
  #24  
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That's odd. I have 2 T-98's 0ne for my '55 F-250 and one for my '53 F-250 and they both have a screw cap over the ball of the shifter stick. Is it possible someone maybe stripped the threads on yours or it work itself loose and they welded it?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 07:42 AM
  #25  
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Hey there 51fordFan

In the '48, I guess the sync. tranny wasn't "man-enough" at the time. Kinda like that "girly" power steering!
the Sync. tranny was an option back then.
My un-sync tranny likes to shift @ 600 rpm, yet in third, in order to get down to 600 again. I lost most forward momentum, and it dogs out in 4th!
Besides .......too many gear teeth-tips in the well-worn, berings.
Kinda useless to re-ruild the original.
Now if there was a bolt on 5-sp for a 239, F-5!
Reamer
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 05:22 PM
  #26  
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Does anybody have one for sale ?
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 05:45 PM
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FOWL1, I dont know.. al I know is it welded on mine.. reamer; Murphy, I will as soon as I get my hands on a T5 or T56
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 05:47 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by reamer
Hey there 51fordFan

In the '48, I guess the sync. tranny wasn't "man-enough" at the time. Kinda like that "girly" power steering!
the Sync. tranny was an option back then.
My un-sync tranny likes to shift @ 600 rpm, yet in third, in order to get down to 600 again. I lost most forward momentum, and it dogs out in 4th!
Besides .......too many gear teeth-tips in the well-worn, berings.
Kinda useless to re-ruild the original.
Now if there was a bolt on 5-sp for a 239, F-5!
Reamer
Reamer, thanks for the reply. I hear ya on the worn out 4 speed trans. I pulled mine out when I first bought the truck to replace the clutch and noticed the input shaft moved up and down at least an 1/8 th of an inch. I wasen't worried just wanted to drive it home. At the time I was thinking of an engine/trans upgrade. But now that I have been driving it to work daily, I having so much fun reliving the old memories that I'm planning to keep it orginal. So now I need to think about some repair parts, or see if any of those syncro units are still around. Any tips on how to identify one without removing the inspection cover.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 07:33 PM
  #29  
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Rod, if you want to scope out repair parts, JobLot Auto (www.joblotauto.com) lists most of the stuff you'd need for either your Warner T-9 or the T-98/98A. I haven't checked the prices for all the stuff, but an input shaft for the T-9 (BB-7017-A) runs $150.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2005 | 09:58 PM
  #30  
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Thanks for the lead Earl
 
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