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99 clutch problems

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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 10:45 AM
  #1  
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99 clutch problems

I am having some problems with my clutch. If I am stopped with the clutch in and it in gear the clutch will slowly start to slip and the truck will start to try and move and its like the clutch pedal shortens because I just have to let it barely out for the truck to go. But when I am moving it works and shifts fine with full use of the full clutch pedal. What could this be?? it seems to be worse when i first start it up in the morning too.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 11:04 AM
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From what you are saying I would be willing to bet that your slave cylinder on your hydraulic clutch is bad. Fluid is leaking by the the seals in the cylinder when you're sitting at a light, with the clutch engaged the fluid leaks by and slow disengages your clutch. When driving and shifting the fluid has no time to leak by, so it works normal. When the truck is cold the seals are not expaned from being warm so the clutch does not work all that well. You can buy a clutch and master cylinder combo, that is bleed already, from any parts store that will solve your problem.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 11:17 AM
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so im a little confused, would it be the slave cylinder or the master cylinder? and can i just replace these or do i need a whole new clutch.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:22 PM
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The slave cylinder and master cylinder along with the fluid resivoir and lines are sold as one unit. It is already bled from the factory. Just buy the unit and install. Both cylinders twist and pop-in or out, no tools needed. You might also need the metal rod from the pedal to the master since the plastic part wears out and are a pain to remove without breaking them once installed.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by vancouverpower
The slave cylinder and master cylinder along with the fluid resivoir and lines are sold as one unit. It is already bled from the factory. Just buy the unit and install. Both cylinders twist and pop-in or out, no tools needed. You might also need the metal rod from the pedal to the master since the plastic part wears out and are a pain to remove without breaking them once installed.
so i dont need to open up the tranny to change these?? when i changed the slave cylinder on my 99 ranger i had to open up the tranny. and it was a pita.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:39 PM
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No you don't need to pull the tranny. Find the resivior (above the brake master) follow the hose from the resivior, it will end at the clutch master, turn it counter clock wise (about 1/2 turn) and it will pop out. You will need to disconnect (destroy) the rod from the pedal first. Follow the other line down to the tranny and the slave cylinder comes out the same way. On the new slave cylinder there is a plastic keeper on the end of the rod, leave this in place when you install it. It will break off during the first use.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:49 PM
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i see two reservoirs, is it the big one or the little one? both have dot 3 brake fluid in them.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by smeezy
i see two reservoirs, is it the big one or the little one? both have dot 3 brake fluid in them.
The little one, it has two small plastic push in tabs.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 12:54 AM
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From: Terrell Texas
Smeezy I had the same problem last july have the clutch in and it started to bleed off I THOUGHT I changed my master cylinder after bleeding it a couple times and hade the same problem, so I was going to change the slave cylinder which ment removing tranny, Thats when I found the cluch center hub had started to come a part bought a clutch kit from O'Reily Auto Parts for 390.99 Dealer cost PROBLEM SOLVED.

Also the kit comes with Clutch, Pressure Plate, Slave Cylinder/Bearing and Pilot Bearing with alignment tool

That price is if you have a single plate system if yours is the double then count on replacing the flywheel as well and thats about 1100.00 bucks
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jenmarent
Smeezy I had the same problem last july have the clutch in and it started to bleed off I THOUGHT I changed my master cylinder after bleeding it a couple times and hade the same problem, so I was going to change the slave cylinder which ment removing tranny
i was told that to change the slave cylinder the tranny doesnt have to be opened.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 05:09 PM
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From: Terrell Texas
you wus told right had mental melt down early this morning it just plugs in and twists on the left side of tranny but i bet you you will find the clutchis the problem,

To verify take the master cylinder and slave out and put both of them the in a vice and and apply pressure with a push rod and hold it if one is bad it will blled off if not pull the tranny and be sure to eat you wheaties cause its a $%#$#@#$% to pull
 
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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 12:30 AM
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From: Eielson AFB
Smeezy,
I would have to agree with jenmarent. I just got my 99 out of the shop yesterday. Whole new setup. The place I went put in a LUK setup including the pressure plate. 940 or so in parts and 290 in labor. I bought my truck back in Sep. and the clutch was real stiff. Thought that's just how it was but turns out my throw out bearing was siezed and i only had about 10 fingers left on my pressure plate. New clutch is nice and smooth, feels really nice. By the way I had the same symptoms you described.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2005 | 09:58 AM
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i just replaced the master and slave cylinder, fixed the problem
 
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