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I have a 74 bronco 302 efi. I'm currently running the stock alternator(I think 50a.) and regulator. I've been reading that an up-grade to a 3G alt. is better. I'm not familiar with this alternator and have a few questions. What year and model do I ask for when purchasing from the auto parts supplier? Is it a direct replacement to my original mounting area? How many wire hook-up is it. And lastly does it come with a v-groove style pulley or can I swap on my old pulley?
Thanks in advance for any replies.....
I have a 74 bronco 302 efi. I'm currently running the stock alternator(I think 50a.) and regulator. I've been reading that an up-grade to a 3G alt. is better. I'm not familiar with this alternator and have a few questions. What year and model do I ask for when purchasing from the auto parts supplier? Is it a direct replacement to my original mounting area? How many wire hook-up is it. And lastly does it come with a v-groove style pulley or can I swap on my old pulley?
Thanks in advance for any replies.....
This will be involved...I won't be able to answer al of you questions right now becasue I am almost done work.
1) Year/model...answer later. I posted an answer to this one on another thread...a whole list of cars. Also depends on if you want to get used or brand new. New of course will cost you more.
2) There are a variety of 3G mounting options. Most were 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock mounting positions. Some year trucks you will need to grind the bracket it to make it fit. I was fortunate, the 86 had enough space to fit the 3G without grinding. Grinding part is easy though.
3) Your 2G is a s wire while the 3G is a single wire with internal voltage regulator. I ordered my wire harness from PA Performance. Do a search on the web. Could order the alt there also.
4) you can swap pulleys...take the old off your serp setup place on the new alt. If you buy new you can specify either serp or V
Het great advice and picture diagram. So basically 2 wires, grn/rd to energize field and red to pos. side of battery? Cj, let me know on what vehicles you think will work for my application with minimal alteration. I know these questions sound stupid but I don't even know how this alternator looks like. I've only read that this alt. is recommended for my EFI swap, so please bear with me. I've done GM delcotron alts into older Jeeps but never this type. Anyway thanks for the incoming info.
Mike
I remember someone saying they used a alternator off a taurus. Here's a picture of one off a 1990 taurus. It's a 130 amp and is about $160.00 in the store.
Thanks franklin, now I think I have a rough idea on what this altenator looks like. I also went on ebay and found that there are lots of different types like cj stated. I didn't know there are many different amp outputs too. It also shows one with a v-pulley, and I also see why getting the wire harness with it will make installation much easier. One picture even shows, where to grind on the mounting bracket. This alternator isn't cheap (new) but I bet it's worth it because of its high out-put. thanks again for the replies.
Thanks franklin, now I think I have a rough idea on what this altenator looks like. I also went on ebay and found that there are lots of different types like cj stated. I didn't know there are many different amp outputs too. It also shows one with a v-pulley, and I also see why getting the wire harness with it will make installation much easier. One picture even shows, where to grind on the mounting bracket. This alternator isn't cheap (new) but I bet it's worth it because of its high out-put. thanks again for the replies.
Heres what I've come up with:
All of these Ford vehicles had the 130amp 3G
(1994-95) Ford Mustang 5.0L
(1994-00) Ford Mustang 3.8L
(1994-97) Ford Thunderbird, Mercury Cougar 3.8L
(1990-95) Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable 3.8L
(1993-99) Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable 3.0L
(1995-98) Ford Windstar 3.8L & 3.0L
(1991-94) Lincoln Continental 3.8L
(1992-97) Ford F Series Pickup
(1992-96) Ford E Series Van
Search this Ryan's site...a TON of info. on the install. FordFuelInjection
great info guys, thanks! I've turned to Ryans site several times for help while doing my efi conversion and I never knew about the alt. section. Cj I'm printing the application list you found for me. I'm gonna try used first. Seems the mounting should be pretty straight forward with minor mods if any. thanks again I really appreciate it.
Mike
great info guys, thanks! I've turned to Ryans site several times for help while doing my efi conversion and I never knew about the alt. section. Cj I'm printing the application list you found for me. I'm gonna try used first. Seems the mounting should be pretty straight forward with minor mods if any. thanks again I really appreciate it.
Mike
Happy hunting! Let me know how it goes! If you stick to those years especially the Taurus and sable you should get a 130amp, there was also a 95amp made so be careful...same set up smaller amount of amos and a smaller case!
I removed a used 130a. 3g off a Taurus 3.8, but I didn't get the year. I also cut off about a foot of the wire harness that plugs to the alt. I solder the wht/blk together, and connected yel/wht to the batt terminal. So basically I have 2wires coming out, the huge blk/red (8 ga. or bigger) to go to the pos. side of the battery or starter solenoid and the grn/red to key run. Do I have it correct?? I'm having it tested at NAPA or CARQUEST before I install. I still need to swap to the v-pulley. Thanks for any response.
I haven't experimented too much with this system, but I am wondering if you have to have the bulb in the key on 12 volt circuit? If you didn't really need it, I think I would still add it to my truck. It's probably a better warning than a guage to let you know if it's charging and if the fan belt is still on the engine.
I noticed the so called idiot light in the wiring diagram is used. I hope just using ign. run will be suffice to energize the field. I do have an amp. gage on my dash that I hope will still work to show charge/discharge.
I do have an amp. gage on my dash that I hope will still work to show charge/discharge
It probably won't. See if there is a weird looking splice in the old alternator output wire, with two smaller wires hooked into it down in the harness wrap. This is the shunt for the factory ammeter, so if you hook the larger wire from the bigger alternator harness up to the starter relay or the battery +, it probably won't have this splice, so your factory ammeter is not going to work.