89 Diesel Problems
1. The engine will not start without a little starting fluid. He has been using this method for the past 10 years. Outside of the glow plugs being replaced what other steps do I need to take to get this engine back to it's original starting ablities?
2. Anytime the engine is accelerated and then let off it promptly dies. Could this be problems with the injector pump or something else?
However, if a whiff of ether makes it start immediately, then the IP is fully fueled at crank-time, and that would point to a GP problem still. On the first start of the day, with air-temp around 40-50 say, your wait-to-start light should stay on for perhaps 10-12 seconds. Is it doing that?
If it's going off after only 5 seconds, then you still have at least one bad GP.
The GPC (controller) could be bad too; but that is not as common on these as it was on the 6.9's.
You can use the test-light method to check the GP's; but I find it unreliable. I've had more than one GP fail without going fully open. I've seen resistances like...2.5 ohms...and I just had one that was 4.6 ohms. That's low enough to light a test light, so you'd think it was good, when it isn't. I use an ohmmeter. A good GP should read in fractions of an ohm. Like... .15 ohm.
The stalling after acceleration is generally talked about in terms of a truck that's just been started. Are you saying that yours does it ALL the time, even after being driven for an hour?
Have you changed the fuel filters? That'd be the first step. Then run the lift-pump test....make sure you have enough flow and pressure at the test-port on the filter-housing. Also check for air-bubbles coming through in the fuel. Problems with the tank-pickups, the tank-selector valve, or any of the lines or fittings, can allow air to be sucked up with the fuel; and that gives the IP fits.
Richard



