FE Carb Conversion
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2004
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FE Carb Conversion
I have searched the archives with no luck and I would like to know what is needed to go from a two barrel carb with manual choke to a four barrel carb. I have purchased a manifold from Ebay for 30.00 and it looks to be in great shape, but I do not know what kind of carb will work with it. The manifold is just a stock 390 manifold I beleive. I'll try to get the numbers off of it after work. I would also like to keep the manual choke but I do not know how feasible this would be. I would like to see a performance gain but at $2.11 a gallon for gas I'll settle for reliability. Thanks,
speederx
P.S what about all the little stuff like linkage, and vacuum line? This will sounds a little odd but can someone send me a picture of the steering column from where the pedals connect to the steering column on a 65 or similar model. Mine seems to have a spot weld of some sort that's coming off...
speederx
P.S what about all the little stuff like linkage, and vacuum line? This will sounds a little odd but can someone send me a picture of the steering column from where the pedals connect to the steering column on a 65 or similar model. Mine seems to have a spot weld of some sort that's coming off...
Last edited by speederx; Apr 6, 2005 at 01:50 PM. Reason: Spelling error.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
The easy fix is put either a Holley or Edelbrock(which ever you like best...ME= HOlley). Get a 600 cfm model. Most either will have electric OR hand choke option. Easy to hook up too.
As for pedal linkage, throw all the factory junk away and go to local hardware store and purchase a piece of threaded rod(like 1/4") and two heim ends(ball) and make yourself a nice straight piece to hook pedal to carb. You'll have to fab up a return spring mount somewhere(not hard), maybe, maybe not. It's simple, straight forward switch. An afternoon of work and you'll be "lovin' it".
As for pedal linkage, throw all the factory junk away and go to local hardware store and purchase a piece of threaded rod(like 1/4") and two heim ends(ball) and make yourself a nice straight piece to hook pedal to carb. You'll have to fab up a return spring mount somewhere(not hard), maybe, maybe not. It's simple, straight forward switch. An afternoon of work and you'll be "lovin' it".
FE "Freakin Expensive"
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,461
Likes: 4
From: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
As for the Linkage....to the carb you could always pick up a piece of stanless rod in 1/4" not threaded..... and Take it to a local high svhool or college that has a Machine shop..and have them run a 1/4 20 thread about an inch up on both ends..to screw your Heim joints on.....thats will make it look slick too...
Am I thinking Hotrod S**T again??? Damn!!! LOL..
Russ
Am I thinking Hotrod S**T again??? Damn!!! LOL..
Russ
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,844
Likes: 5
From: Albuquerque
You should see a mild performance increase by adding a 4 barrel carb and stock FE manifold. You will get very different views on which carb to go with...so that is almost an even wash. Of course I prefer the Edelbrock 600cfm carb to the equivalent Holley. For me it is easier to dial in...and has worked better for me .vs the Holley. I ended trashing the Holley after one of the needles stuck open and flooded the carb. Again...you will get very different stories, experiences, etc. on the carb question.
As others have mentioned, you will need to lengthen the linkage a bit...and the recommendations that have been offered are excellent.
Good luck with your swap...
biz
PS...I am an Edelbrock Man too. All my FE extra's are pretty much Edelbrock (manifold, carb, water pump, cam, valve springs, timing chain, etc.). My setup ( '76 F150 4x4 390FE) works excellent for my needs.
As others have mentioned, you will need to lengthen the linkage a bit...and the recommendations that have been offered are excellent.
Good luck with your swap...
biz
PS...I am an Edelbrock Man too. All my FE extra's are pretty much Edelbrock (manifold, carb, water pump, cam, valve springs, timing chain, etc.). My setup ( '76 F150 4x4 390FE) works excellent for my needs.
Last edited by biz4two; Apr 7, 2005 at 12:21 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
Likes: 8
From: Union, Washington
Any carb can stick a needle and seat and flood over. Usually caused by dirt. Get a real good fuel filter, I prefer mounting a spin on fuel filter/water seperator type. I also prefer Holley carbs because they have a lot less adjustments to make or worry about than the Edelbrock (they are just Carter AFBs from the 50s and 60s).
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 5,844
Likes: 5
From: Albuquerque
Originally Posted by speederx
interesting. Thanks. What about the carb heat shield and stuff?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I highly reccomend the spacer too. I have the plastic version on mine. It will help keep the carb from boiling over after you shut if off and it heat soaks. My Autolite was famous for that. It was near impossible to get re-started in high heat summer days, but once I put the Holley/spacer on it starts right back up now.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,447
Likes: 1
From: Littleton, CO
I just put a Holley 600 atop an "S" code 4 barrel manifold. The linkage of the carb hung down to the point of needing cut or a carb spacer. Because of past experiences, I went the spacer route. I also used the stock cable linkage for the throttle (on a 65 F100) but the choke cable came up short, I haven't addressed that yet...
--Mike
--Mike
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 6
From: SD
A few years ago I swapped a stock 4v intake and Edelbrock 600 carb onto my '73 390. I've been very pleased with the performance and the reliability of the Edelbrock - haven't had to touch it in years, runs great. I needed a 1" spacer so the linkages would clear the intake. At the time, 1" aluminum spacer was all that was available, it caused me to suffer with perculation and flooding. I got a 1" 4 hole plastic spacer and the perculation has never been a problem since.
Marty
Marty
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
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From: Coal country
Percolation is a boiling over effect. Do you remember percolated coffee? Maxwell House used to have a musical jingle to make you remember their coffee was percolated better. I still like "perked" coffee over instant. Drip coffee is almost as good, but percolated coffee seems to have a deeper flavor.
Heat transfer within mass is also called percolation. A brick house will remain cooler longer during a summer day, but as the brick absorbs heat, and the heat moves from the outside of the wall to the inside, it keeps the house warmer longer on the inside. This effect is also called heat percolation.
Carb percolation occurs when the residual engine heat retained in the engine after shutdown makes the gas in the carb boil and evaporate faster.
Putting a phenolic or plastic spacer between the carb and the intake helps reduce the amount of heat transferred into the carb, thus reducing fuel boiling and evaporation. Therefore, a metal spacer won't reduce percolation.
Heat transfer within mass is also called percolation. A brick house will remain cooler longer during a summer day, but as the brick absorbs heat, and the heat moves from the outside of the wall to the inside, it keeps the house warmer longer on the inside. This effect is also called heat percolation.
Carb percolation occurs when the residual engine heat retained in the engine after shutdown makes the gas in the carb boil and evaporate faster.
Putting a phenolic or plastic spacer between the carb and the intake helps reduce the amount of heat transferred into the carb, thus reducing fuel boiling and evaporation. Therefore, a metal spacer won't reduce percolation.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 6
From: SD
Right. So when the engine was hot and shut off, the heat from the engine would boil the gas in the carb. The boiling would push the gas out into the engine and it would be flooded. So I installed the plastic spacer to insulate the carb from the engine heat, it worked great. No flooding problems since. So if you need a spacer, get a plastic one...
Marty
Marty
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 244
Likes: 0
From: Fort Nelson B.C.
The spacer is an interesting point, I am swapping out all my intake and a spacer was not suggested. By the amount of guys here posting about it, it sounds like a 1" plastic spacer is pretty much a must! Thanks
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
Don't forget when adding a spacer you will have to lengthen your trans kickdown lever if running an auto. The four hole is the way to go in a truck. Moroso has a 4-hole pt # 64930, it's .940" thick not 1", the bores are 1.710" at the top and 1.720" at the bottom, mold release taper. The bores are larger than the throttle plate bores on the carb (670 SA) which creates a turbulence and velocity reduction. To use a smaller bore spacer (next size down) the spacer will have 84% of the throttle plate bore area. Best to get the smaller spacer and bore them out to match the throttle plate bore for smooth airflow. (I did this on the Bridgeport). All I read about is plastic, what about Phenolic spacers? Smells better when boring out.
Carl....=o&o>....
Carl....=o&o>....