Hi again, y'all. It's been a while since I've posted. So long, I lost my old account (58 60 f-100). Here's the beginning scoop for those who've joined since my last post:

I'm the poor sap stuck in Alaska (for another 74 days ) who bought a '58 that's been sittin for 2 1/2 years from a co-worker. He had said it was running right before he parked and only did because the starter solenoid had gone out and he was getting too old to work on it anymore. Changed the starter solenoid, coil, plugs, plug wires, battery, battery cables, and still wouldn't start. It'll crank, but still doesn't catch. I hooked a line from the fuel pump to a gas can with fresh gas (also changed the fuel filter) and poured some in the carb, still no dice.

Now the lastese development: I noticed smoke coming from the negative battery cable where it is connected to the firewall . It didn't even dawn on me where the battery was grounded when I replaced the cables. So, I'm looking for a good place to ground the battery, but the only places I see offhand are the intake manifold (?) or there is a bolt hole (with no bolt or function that I know of) on the bottom of the block between the plugs and the oil pan (but it's covered in oil, so I don't think this would be a good place). Anyway, do y'all think the frame would be a good place? I'm open for suggestions (and desperately need to get it running in the next few weeks, or I'll have to sell as I can't afford to ship it). Thanks.

Kevin

P.S Sorry for the long-winded post

 

Pull a starter mounting bolt and use it for a gounding bolt.. But I would leave the old ground wire where it is and just add a new one right to the Batt..

 

Hi Madathlon. Thanks for the reply. I'll go ahead and try that tomorrow. What do you mean about the old ground wire? I was only planning on putting on a new (longer) cable and tossing the old one as it's only 12' and won't reach anywhere else. Should there be another wire off the negative cable? Thanks.

Kevin

 

The Old ground wire that U said was going to the body.. Just leave it there.. That will help prevent the body from lousiing its grounding, And it wont hurt anything if left alone.. You can never have to many grounds on your truck..

 

I'm sorry. I'm still not understanding. It's a complete battery cable, not just a wire. The only way I know of to solve the problem (please bear with me as I don't get along well with electrical) is to just change out the battery cable. If I leave the other one on there, I'll have 2 cables on one post. Thanks again.

Kevin

 

That right.. Leave the (-) batt cable that there and install a new one with it.. If you do not keep the body ground and just ground the engine.. U can have other problems.. ( Not saying U will ) But its always a good Idea to have a 4 gauge (-) to the engine and a 10-12 gauge (-) wire to the cab/body.. So all your Lights and other stuff will work properly.. There Should be a (-) wire to the Body, And one to the frame( a jumper from the body will do ) And a (-) 4 Gauge to the engine.. Id would also make sure that there a good (-) to the bed of the truck also.. Remember that the Cab/body/bed and the Engine sit on some form of mounts and most mounts are made of rubber.. I couldnt tell you how many times I seen problems with Light, Radios, Horns becouse a (-) connector had rotted away and no one fixed it...

 

On my new '60 project truck, the negative battery cable is grounded to one of the starter mounting bolts. There is then an additional cable running from the driver's side of the bellhousing to the cowl. My own (finished) truck isn't and wasn't set up like this, but the starter on the project seems to crank pretty well.

P.S. these trucks each have the 223 six-cylinder, but I think the same principle can be applied to the Y-block.

 

Hi Kevin,

As far as grounds go, you want to keep in mind two things - what devices on your truck use electricity and how much do they use?

The starter is by far the biggest current hog and Madathlon's suggestion of using a starter mounting bolt for your battery ground cable is a good one. Connect a 2 gage battery cable direct from the battery to the mounting bolt. Now you are sure you'll get plenty of juice to the starter when you need it.

The other items that need electricity take their ground from either the engine block (and attachments), the frame, or the cab body (there might be some that use other body panels, but you can use a separate ground if the body panels don't have a good ground to the frame.

The cable to the starter mounting bolt will handle all the engine block and attachment items like water temperature sensor, oil pressure gage, etc.

For the cab, there are a bunch of items that need a good ground like the heater motor, gages, etc. I'd recommend you run a flexible, braided ground cable from the back of the block or intake manifold to the firewall. Find an open bolt hole on the block, or use a mounting hole for an accessory. Clean off the area with a wire brush. Same on the firewall side - find a fastener and clean the area up. Now you have a good ground to the engine and the cab.

Finally, all the stuff that gets a ground from the frame like tail lights, etc. Run a second flexible braided cable from the engine block to a frame member. You should be able to find an open hole on the passenger side where the right-hand steering gear would be located if you had a right-hand steering vehicle. Again, clean up the areas at both ends of the cable attachment location and fasten it down. Now you have the block grounded to the battery, and the cab and frame grounded to the block. You're in ground heaven.

The flexible cables are cheap and available on line from quite a few vendors. I got mine from McMaster-Carr - part number 69925K32, 69925K32, or 69925K36 depending on the length I needed. They run about $7 or $8 each plus shipping.

Have fun.

 

Kooper909, This applys to all setup ..

 

Hello again all. Thank you very much for the tips/advice. I put the new battery cable connected to the starter mounting bolt and got her runnin. I'm not going to worry about the frame/firewall grounds right now as I've got about 60 days before I have to ship it to my next base. I have a bunch of other stuff I have to do to it beforehand or they won't ship it, and I don't have $3-5k to ship it myself. But I will get all the grounds done after I get settled back in the Lower-48. Again, thanks.

Kevin

 

Umm, I think you're not getting the point.

Would you install your lug nuts finger tight and not tighten them with a lug wrench? Would you only change 3 out of 6 spark plugs if they all needed changing.

In case you haven't noticed, having good grounds on your truck is not a cosmetic thing. You've go to have good grounds from the battery to the starter, from that point to the frame, and from the engine to the firewall. Not having good a good ground is like having a clogged fuel filter. Things won't work right without good grounds.

 

fridge trucks , Are U military station in Ak? And if so are You being discharged? If so you can have them do the transport....