With all this room inside, you'd think I'd be happy, but I'd like to put a bike rack (of sorts) on the front of my E-350. Does anyone know of a bolt on receiver for the front of the van? It would really be trick if it could go right under the bumper above the plastic air dam. I'd also use it for negotiating my boat trailer in tight places.

I'm not optomistic...it doesn't look like there's any room in there for such an animal, but I thought I'd ask none-the-less.

 

I've thought about this as well and looked into a bit. There are basically two options, both custom. 1) have a metal fabricator weld up a receiver bracket that will fit where you want it, and 2) have a metal fabricator weld up a custom front bumper with a built in receiver (similar to those seen on trucks).

 

There are a few companies that make bolt on front receivers for super duty trucks, JC Whitney sells them. You might be able to make one work with a little bit of welding / additional material since the frame rails are wider on the van.

I think that one of the problems is the crumple zones built into the frame horns, I don't think that they can support too much weight. But, if it is only for a bike rack, it should be ok.

 

I used to shop at JCWhitney (and Warshawsky) when I lived in Chicago. That place was a cultural experience! Couldn't scare up an E-350 front hitch on their site, but I did find these elsewhere:

http://www.hitchesonline.com/front_e..._front_end.htm
I called Reese - they said theirs would fit my '05.

http://search.cartserver.com/search/...oline&GO=GO%21
This one has a link to installation instructions:
http://www.draw-tite.net/pdf/N65001.pdf

Things continue to look up.

jn

 

Jn. I saw a 96ish e350 v10, 4x4 quigley conversion today with a front rec. hitch. It was a draw tite, 5000 lb model. Part no. was 65001 as you mentioned. The main crossmember tube was under the front frame rails, and there were two flat plates that extended upwards and bolted to the outside of the frame rails. It did sit lower than the bumper and the guy removed the lower plastic air dam section.

 

Got the front hitch from eTrailer - they showed up as an advertiser at the bottom of the post. Installation was straightforward - enlarge 2 holes in the frame, fishwire the fasteners through and bolt her up. Then got a cargo basket from Tractor Supply. It's a little bigger than I anticipated, but I'm getting used to it. I got the fold up model because it rides higher on the hitch. I put some pipes on the corners of the basket to remind me of the clearance I need.


The slight up angle is by design.


I'll put a plastic cargo box in the basket which will hold the inverter and inverter battery along with other stuff.

Do you think it will make it 12,000 miles to Alaska and back?

 

Just as long as you remember it is there!

Very nifty.

 

one should cut a notch in the lower air dam and leave as much of it in place as possible, it helps direct airflow into the radiator and engine.


looks like a nice job, but I wonder how putting a plastic box on it in front of your radiator is going affect engine cooling. One of those thing that make me go hhmmmm?

 

Thanks for the replies/concerns...

Didn't have to mess with the air dam at all. Where would the notch go?

I'll give it a test run pulling the trailer up the mountain. If there's any sign of overheating, I'll try removing the box and keep the height of the 'gear' to less than 12" - the basket rail is 6" high.

 

I was refering if you had to remove the lower air dam.

 

Here's the 'box' with inverter and battery, capable of putting out 3000 watts of 120 vac. Took her on the road today - no signs of overheating; no rattles or bounce...it rides like it's part of the van.

The cord is from an outlet in the garage. The inverter has a built in battery charger. The cord enters the box via a hinged door (top). The square below is louvers to allow the inverter cooling fan to draw in outside air.


The closest part of the box is 8" from the grill; the box does not interfere with the headlights.


The recepticles are for 120 vac IN (to charge the battery and/or pass thru the inverter to power the 120 vac load), and 120 vac OUT - either from the inverter or directly from the 120 vac IN if/when it's available.

There's room for another battery if necessary.

I still have to wire the inverter battery to the van charging system. I've got a marine relay that connects the two when the altrernator is putting out charging voltage, otherwise the batteries are isolated.

The primary use of the inverter will be for cooking (microwaving or crockpotting) while on the road and to power computer, TV, shaver etc while in primitive campgrounds (or WalMart parking lots).