need help decoding Axle ID
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From: McRae, AR
need help decoding Axle ID
well ive searched up and down but i cant find any id plate on the rear end of
my 66
Im trying to find out what it is so i can determine my options for fixing it, its got quite a bit of slop.
I have the vin from the warr plate along with the other info
F10YL810805
129 WM F100 B81 G 17
i have access to a 72 parts truck, from what i understand the rear drums on it are bigger, any thoughts on a complete swap? would this be worth it? or only in conjunction with a disc conversion..
from what i understand the rear track width changed in 73 so im thinking changing the entire rear could be an option..
any input is helpful,
thanks
my 66
Im trying to find out what it is so i can determine my options for fixing it, its got quite a bit of slop.
I have the vin from the warr plate along with the other info
F10YL810805
129 WM F100 B81 G 17
i have access to a 72 parts truck, from what i understand the rear drums on it are bigger, any thoughts on a complete swap? would this be worth it? or only in conjunction with a disc conversion..
from what i understand the rear track width changed in 73 so im thinking changing the entire rear could be an option..
any input is helpful,
thanks
New User
Joined: Mar 2005
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Hi, If the rear axle is still original it would be a 9" with 3.25 gears. Pretty much bullit proof and very easy to find parts for. There would not have been any type of permanent plate on the rear axle but a metal tag attatched to one of the nuts holding in center section. If it unloads from front most likely original 9". an easy way to tell is on the bottom bolts/nuts if they cannot be accesses with a socket its a 9". There should be a date code cast into housing on upper portion pass side. Any 9" center made should work in your housing. The 3.25 gear is a great all around gear just replace brgs etc as needed.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,813
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From: Connecticut
Code 17 is a Ford 9 inch, 3.25 ratio, non posi. yes, you can swap the entire rear. If you use the center chuck, make sure it's a 28 spline. Up until the end of 67, they were all 28 splines. 68 and on have 28 or 31 spline axles.
Barry
Barry
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From: Connecticut
I broke down your serial number and codes for you.
F10YL 810805
F10= F100 2wd
Y= 352 2V CID
L= Michigan truck plant
810805= 1966
129+ 129 inch w/base
WM= (paint codes) W= Medium Blue
M= White
B81= 81= Custom cab
B= Medium blue crush vinyl and medium blue cody pattern woven plastic
G= 3 speed automatic
17= Ford 9 inch rear with 3.25 gear ratio non posi
Barry
F10YL 810805
F10= F100 2wd
Y= 352 2V CID
L= Michigan truck plant
810805= 1966
129+ 129 inch w/base
WM= (paint codes) W= Medium Blue
M= White
B81= 81= Custom cab
B= Medium blue crush vinyl and medium blue cody pattern woven plastic
G= 3 speed automatic
17= Ford 9 inch rear with 3.25 gear ratio non posi
Barry
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From: McRae, AR
thanks for the info, what splines are you refering to?
where the axles go into the chunk? im just wondering if the larger
brake drums would be worth the effort of just swapping the entire rear end
where the axles go into the chunk? im just wondering if the larger
brake drums would be worth the effort of just swapping the entire rear end
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,813
Likes: 6
From: Connecticut
Yes, the axle shaft splines have to match the "chunk" spider or side gears. Either job of swapping the rear or just the chuck is about equal. As long as the ratio is what you want to run.
Barry
Barry
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Joined: Mar 2005
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Originally Posted by barry
Code 17 is a Ford 9 inch, 3.25 ratio, non posi. yes, you can swap the entire rear. If you use the center chuck, make sure it's a 28 spline. Up until the end of 67, they were all 28 splines. 68 and on have 28 or 31 spline axles.
Barry
Barry
Ford started using 31 spline axles in 66. (have owned many 67 Ford/Mercury products with "FACTORY" 31 spline axles!!
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,813
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From: Connecticut
No, I'm saying up until 1967 the trucks had 28 splines only. ( no mention of cars) All the 9 inch rears in a truck took one axle, B7TZ 4234-A. After 67, they had both splines, 28 and 31. It's the early ones that are limited. Not 67 or later.
Barry
Barry
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From: Coal country
Tojoski: You are lucky to have access to the '72 rear axle for a swap!
You can very easily upgrade your '66 to larger and safer rear brakes using the '72 rear end, and what's better, you do not have to change the rear axle, just the brake ends and the parts.
You will need to use the '72 rear axle half shafts, the brake backing plates and all hardware.
You will need to use the '66 parking brake cables, though (most likely).
Other than that, it is all a direct bolt-on and easy swap.
This would be a good time to get new drums, shoes, springs, wheel cylinders and a new rear brake flex hose too.
Finally, if you think this is too much, you can swap the entire axle if you desire. It bolts up exactly, and you do not have to change anything. (On the '73 and later axles, the frame and therefore the axles were widened, making that swap a litle more difficult.)
Good luck!
You can very easily upgrade your '66 to larger and safer rear brakes using the '72 rear end, and what's better, you do not have to change the rear axle, just the brake ends and the parts.
You will need to use the '72 rear axle half shafts, the brake backing plates and all hardware.
You will need to use the '66 parking brake cables, though (most likely).
Other than that, it is all a direct bolt-on and easy swap.
This would be a good time to get new drums, shoes, springs, wheel cylinders and a new rear brake flex hose too.
Finally, if you think this is too much, you can swap the entire axle if you desire. It bolts up exactly, and you do not have to change anything. (On the '73 and later axles, the frame and therefore the axles were widened, making that swap a litle more difficult.)
Good luck!
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