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My Ranger has some wax on some plastic parts such as the rear bumper guard and one of the wheel flares. To remove it, I've tried hot soapy water and a toothbrush and also gasoline on a rag. No luck. Before I get stronger with the chemicals and possibly inflict damage, I'm wondering what household/shop chemicals will safely remove this wax. Thanks.
There are wax and grease removers available at most auto parts stores, however if that does'nt work I've had good luck with K-1 kero used very sparingly for wax removal. Just a little on a rag, stay away from the paint, quick swipe then wait to see how it looks.
... I've had good luck with K-1 kero used very sparingly for wax removal. Just a little on a rag, stay away from the paint<editdon't worry too much about that as long as you polish and wax the area afterwards, quick swipe then wait to see how it looks.
That'll werk the best for now, and it's alot cheaper than going out to buy some "profesional" type stuff.
This might sound like a lame question, but is K1 the kerosene commonly available at average, run of the mill fuel suppliers? Or do I need to put in some effort to locate a supplier.
just a tip for when you are waxing, dampen your wax applicator and keep it damp, while you are applying the wax carry a dry towel with you so if you get any wax on the plastic you can quicly wipe it off the plastic with the dry towel and it will not leave the white residue on the plastic.
I found that a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and water works good for removing dried wax from plastic parts that have a finish with a deep grain. I first heard about this product a few months ago (possibly from this site). People were debating the pros and cons about this sponge, with some saying it damaged the finish on plastic parts. I picked one up at a grocery store, tried it, and was pleased with the results.
Once you strip the wax off, try a once per week application of Armour All. I have been doing this with good results. If this is not a good idea, or has some drawbacks, I'd appreciate knowing, but have not had any problems.
Step OUTSIDE the box with me for a minute here...ok thank you...
I've tried some of the above mentioned methods, but since I find that doing all that crap is a pain in the rear end, I take some time to prep before I wax. The real issue here is that you should keep wax OFF of those surfaces. You shouldn't put yourself in a situation where you have to take it off...You don't have to wax tooooooooo often, so it's not that big a deal to spend 20 more minutes doin prep stuff...
I use 2" wide blue painters tape on all unpainted surfaces that I might get wax on. The black rubber around my windows, door handles, grilles, bumpers, where ever you need it. THEN you can go APE***** crazy with the claybar/polish/wax, you don't have to be all neat and careful around every little edge and corner, plus you get the entire vehicle waxed rather than leaving little "chicken strips" near the black parts.
Once you're done with all the detailing whip off the tape, run some back to black/black magic/armor all/toejam/whatever you want over black parts and yer DUN!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.