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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

PS Pump Pulley

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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 09:35 PM
  #1  
cdorroh's Avatar
cdorroh
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Question PS Pump Pulley

Does anyone know how to remove the pully from a power steering pump? I need to swap out the bracket, but can't get the bolts out while the pully is on. It has a recessed hex bolt as a fastener, but no way to keep the pulley from turning (short of a bench vise, that is).
Thanks in advance.
Craig
 
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 11:36 PM
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"Beemer Nut"'s Avatar
"Beemer Nut"
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From: "Islander"
Pulley puller

The only way that pulley is coming off is to use a puller made for them. They are pressed on tight as hell. Any other method will destroy the pulley and pump. Do not pull, press or bang on the pulley as it will destroy the pump!. Bring all your parts, pulley and pump to a good auto parts store, they should have a pull and install for a small fee. The puller kit costs between $85 to $105 if you think you'll need one later. I rebuilt 5 pumps last year so the purchase saved time and money.

Carl....=o&o>....
 
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Old Mar 25, 2005 | 03:43 PM
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FLgargoyle
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From: Travelers Rest SC
I paid about $28 for a puller. It is a split design that fits over the groove in the pulley flange, then a sleeve slides over it to hold it together. There is a bolt you tighten to pull the pulley, but it will probably give you a fight. Some of the parts stores will rent you one for a small cost, but I prefer to own one, so I'll have it for trips to the junkyard. I can't remember where I got mine; I googled "ford power steering puller" or something like that and bought it mailorder.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2005 | 05:04 PM
  #4  
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I bought mine for about $18 at AutoZone.
It is a remover and an installer.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2005 | 06:30 PM
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I got you all beat on price! I got mine free from the dealer I worked at and it's a genuine Ford tool. I actually got 2 and gave one to my buddy.

Barry
 
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Old Mar 25, 2005 | 07:58 PM
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"Beemer Nut"'s Avatar
"Beemer Nut"
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From: "Islander"
Barry, what did you do, go in on their lunch hour an take 'em off the wall and run like hell? Just had to razz ya. My puller kit has many different adapters for power steering and alternators. All parts in a pretty holder that said you must buy me, I did. I hate to borrow from others hence i'm $85 lighter.

Carl....=o&o>....
 
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Old Mar 25, 2005 | 08:40 PM
  #7  
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I had the tool crib in my parts room way back when. They were cleaning out the excess and I found them in an old box of stuff. No sense throwing out something good, so I grabbed them. Yours sounds like a good all around kit to have.

Barry
 
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Old Mar 25, 2005 | 09:29 PM
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"Beemer Nut"'s Avatar
"Beemer Nut"
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From: "Islander"
But yours is better as it didn't cost anything. When it's free and you can use it, it gives you that warm feeling inside. It hurts when someone gets a special tool that they have no clue what it is or how to use it then let it rust in a shed for years before throwing it away.

Carl....=o&o>....
 
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 09:56 AM
  #9  
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Yup! It's another one of thse seldom used but absolutely neccesary tools.
Harbor freight probably has 'em cheap
Oh yeah, If the PS fluid has been in the pump a while (5-10 centuries).
Do your self a favor and buy a gallon of ATF and flush that beast out!
It will increase the life of the pump ten fold. Honest!
Lawrence
 
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 11:40 AM
  #10  
"Beemer Nut"'s Avatar
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From: "Islander"
Running Neo PS oil in a fresh new and rebuilt system.

Carl....=o&o>....
 
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 04:18 PM
  #11  
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Yeah, sure I guess so?
Running Neo PS oil in a fresh new and rebuilt system.
Well at least here on EARTH any 10w oil will do.
Lman
 
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 06:45 PM
  #12  
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From: "Islander"
10 weight is fine if you can ignore the properties of a synthetic oil designed for hydraulic systems that have anti-foaming, gear scuffing and flaking properties in racing steering units. Use what makes you happy. Any oil product will have better lubrication properties than ATF. Use oil in a auto trans and feel the clutches slip, proper oil vs ATF thing. Just my opinions, we all have our own.

Carl....=o&o>....
 
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 08:05 PM
  #13  
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From: Deep in the IE, So CaL
Woops, My bad!
I now see the Neanderthal remark!
I agree Synthetic is the only way to go!
All I run in My 03 Expedition 5.4 XLT FX4, 04 Taurus SEL 3.0 DOHC, 69 F100 460 CJ, and 65 Galaxie 390 HiPo is MOBIL 1. They're the 1st and the best...Lman
 
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 06:45 PM
  #14  
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PS Pump Pulley - I'm at the same point in my project

Irronically, I just got on line tonight to try to find the answer to the same question about PS pump pulley removal. So, I suppose Autozone loans the proper tool out. A question remains.......does the recessed hex fastener get removed before pulling of is this hex used to keep the pulley from turning during removal? I think that the pump and brackets in my 1966 F100 352 is from a 1972 or 73.
Oh, I almost forgot.....my real problem is that the PS pulley is offset from the crank pulley by about 1/2 inch. The pulleys are parallel.....just offset, with the PS pulley ahead of the crank pulley. My thought was to reverse the pulley on the pump to try to get the alignment right. Any thoughts?

Mechanicsburg.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 07:11 PM
  #15  
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From: Coal country
The real problem emerges.
What is the sequence of pulleys for your system?
The alternator is next to the engine.
PS is in the middle, or the second one out.
AC is the furthest away from the engine.
Do you have air conditioning on your system?
There are two ways to set up that bracket sytem, one for AC and one without. Reversing the pulley probably won't fix it, and once you get the pulley on, you can't get it off if if it is on backwards.
Is the PS pulley ahead of the crank?
If so then there is a spacer between the block and the bracket that needs to go away.
OR (and this does make sense but only if you have seen both setups)
You need to ADD the spacer, and put the belt on the next sheave.

Hope this helps!
 

Last edited by banjopicker66; Mar 27, 2005 at 07:28 PM.
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