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I was wondering if it's possible to stain and then clear coat spray the oak boards on the bed. It seems it would be easier than using a brush and varnishing several coats. Any pros and cons?
I would think that, unless your able to completely encapsulate each board, as the wood collect moisture/humidity it would eventually swell and crack the clear coat. Clear coat cures out very hard and works best if apllied to a stable product. I know some guys who clear coat solid body guitars after applying graphics and they hold up great, but they are completely covered and live in a much more controlled enviroment than most trucks ever will.
Here is a link with a few good ideas that was posted a while back, I plan to look into it more closely if I ever get to that point. Hope this helps you!
I have heard of people doing it with spray clear, but I have never got to follow up and see how it held up to the elements. I know the PO of my truck had used something that peeled off by the time I bought the truck. About two years ago there was a post by a pro finisher that did the exposed woodwork on boats. He told us that 7 coats of spar varnish was the best method. That's what I did and it turned out about a 9 on a 1-10 scale. I guess it depends on whether you want to chance the longevity. If you do it, please post the prep and application. Good luck, Jag
I used automotive clear coat on my F-2's box floor and it hasn't held up too good. I used white ash without staining, if that makes a difference. The clear coat is failing and I plan on getting a different box soon and this time I will use a marine varnish. I will thin and spray the varnish on in quite a few coats. Spraying several coats should give it the same coverage as brushing. Also, to help prevent cupping of the boards I cut 3/8" grooves, about an inch apart, on the bottom side of the boards. I figured this would give the wood a place to move where you wouldn't see it. I also undercoated the underside of the boards to help keep moisture out. I seems to have worked, the boards are as flat as when I put them in.
Use clear polyurethane varnish for a similar result. You can get Minwax products (and others no doubt) in aerosol for a nice smooth finish. I just thin mine with mineral spirits as recommended by someone here, and use a brush for great flowout. You might consider a semi-gloss unless you just have to have high gloss. A quick sanding after a couple coats really makes the last coat lay down nice.
Last edited by fatfenders; Mar 21, 2005 at 08:00 PM.
I would think that no mater how you apply what ever finish you choose you need to be certain that it is applied to all sides. I you only seal the top the remainder of each board will still absorb moisture and is apt to cause the boards to cup which will hold water.
Any good marine grade sealer, varnish etc should work just fine if the boards are properly prepared and it is applied on all sides.
I would personaly be some what hesitant to spray the finish, I know that most furniture finishes are sprayed today but I realy would feel a bit more confident that everything is very will covered with 3 or 4 coats applied via brush and hand rubbed in between.