Does it really matter?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 119
Likes: 5
Does it really matter?
I don't really know if it really matters what brand of oil or filters you use as
long as you use the reccomended weight,and change the oil 3000-5000 miles.
I am a auto tech at a very busy shop,and we do 20-30 oil changes per day
and use champ fiters and bulk oil(that's supposed to be 5w30 but who knows)
and the brand is always changing.I have a lot of regular customers that go
200,000+ with this oil,and champ filters and never have a oil related engine
problem! My dad also uses nothing but super tech oil and fram filters in his
97 ford crown vic that has 275,000 miles (and he has owned it since almost
new-18000 miles) and it does not burn any oil between changes! I am paranoid and use only motorcraft oil (5w20) and filters in my 2002 F-250
Superduty V-10,but do wonder if I am wasting my money! As far as synthetic
oil,I only notice a difference in my harley,but that's because it's air cooled
and gets very hot in the summer. Any normally used liquid cooled engine does
not need synthetic oil because the temp is almost always the same. Oh well
just my opinnion!
long as you use the reccomended weight,and change the oil 3000-5000 miles.
I am a auto tech at a very busy shop,and we do 20-30 oil changes per day
and use champ fiters and bulk oil(that's supposed to be 5w30 but who knows)
and the brand is always changing.I have a lot of regular customers that go
200,000+ with this oil,and champ filters and never have a oil related engine
problem! My dad also uses nothing but super tech oil and fram filters in his
97 ford crown vic that has 275,000 miles (and he has owned it since almost
new-18000 miles) and it does not burn any oil between changes! I am paranoid and use only motorcraft oil (5w20) and filters in my 2002 F-250
Superduty V-10,but do wonder if I am wasting my money! As far as synthetic
oil,I only notice a difference in my harley,but that's because it's air cooled
and gets very hot in the summer. Any normally used liquid cooled engine does
not need synthetic oil because the temp is almost always the same. Oh well
just my opinnion!
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,532
Likes: 5
From: Trussville, Alabama
IMO, it probably matters more to US than it does our TRUCK.
I imagine most any SL or SM rated oil, in the proper viscosity range will do the job. Some might do it a little better, but the worst of the lot I'd imagine is good enough for a lot of miles.
I imagine most any SL or SM rated oil, in the proper viscosity range will do the job. Some might do it a little better, but the worst of the lot I'd imagine is good enough for a lot of miles.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
The reason that it is working is that IT IS BEING CHANGED REGULARLY. Most people have a favorite oil, but regardless of the brand or weight, if it is not changed regularly and frequently enough, you won't get long engine life.
Oil has improved SOOoooo much since the sixties, that most any oil you get is pretty good. The oil change frequency is more important than the brand IMHO. Just keep it changed.
Have a great day,
Doc
Oil has improved SOOoooo much since the sixties, that most any oil you get is pretty good. The oil change frequency is more important than the brand IMHO. Just keep it changed.
Have a great day,
Doc
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,673
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Area
In my opinion, the Ford specified 5W20, is worth the slight extra cost you are paying. For an overhead cam engine, it is very important to get the cold oil up as fast as possible. The thinner oil also does a better job of cooling. I also think that it is worthwhile to use a Motorcraft or other oil filter with a silicon anti-drain back valve and for the same reason: getting the oil up top quickly. In my experience, the regular anti drain backs stiffen quickly when in hot oil, and no longer function.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 1,642
Likes: 6
From: Northern California
Originally Posted by MrBSS
In my opinion, the Ford specified 5W20, is worth the slight extra cost you are paying. For an overhead cam engine, it is very important to get the cold oil up as fast as possible. The thinner oil also does a better job of cooling. I also think that it is worthwhile to use a Motorcraft or other oil filter with a silicon anti-drain back valve and for the same reason: getting the oil up top quickly. In my experience, the regular anti drain backs stiffen quickly when in hot oil, and no longer function.
, Well Said. Especially, the part about getting cold oil pumped quickly to the top of an engine. Lower viscosity SL & SM (API) oils, dino, blends, and full synthetics accomplish this. Hey, I admit, as a teenager in the 70s, I used mostly 10w40, with a can (15oz.) of STP Oil Treatment at every oil change, even in the winter. Not too smart, and I shake my head now. Even fully hot, warmed up, SAE 30HD, 40HD -up, 15w40, 20w50, make a modern engine's crankshaft and bottom parts of the motor, work uneedlessly harder, killing maximum MPG etc. Even towing, why would you make your engine work harder with thick oil, + the trailer weight being towed? 10-15 years ago, I think you probably needed a higher viscosity oil, when towing. Not today, SL and SM oils will easily withstand high engine temps. 
Diesels, worn oil burning, piston slappers, do not apply with my opinion stated here... Ed 
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 423
Likes: 0
From: Cabot, Arkansas
I've still got a few of the Motorcraft filters for my V-10 stashed away from when Wally World sold them. However, when they run out I'm switching to the NAPA Gold filter for the same silicon anti-drain back valve they use. I read a review on filters and NAPA Gold filters are made by WIX and rate really high...
On to oils. I use the Motorcraft 5W20 and have resisted switching to fully synthetic since I never let my oil go past the 5,000 mile point. I realize the fully synthetics are more temperature stable, but I live in the warm sunny south and don't see low temperature extremes. Are all of the 5W20 oils synthetic blends or fully synthetic? I saw a Pensoil 5W20 the other day and it didn't say anything about synthetic anywhere on the bottle.
I'll be switching from Motorcraft since Wally World doesn't sell it any more and will be looking for a replacement oil which doesn't cost $4-5 a quart.
Edmo
On to oils. I use the Motorcraft 5W20 and have resisted switching to fully synthetic since I never let my oil go past the 5,000 mile point. I realize the fully synthetics are more temperature stable, but I live in the warm sunny south and don't see low temperature extremes. Are all of the 5W20 oils synthetic blends or fully synthetic? I saw a Pensoil 5W20 the other day and it didn't say anything about synthetic anywhere on the bottle.
I'll be switching from Motorcraft since Wally World doesn't sell it any more and will be looking for a replacement oil which doesn't cost $4-5 a quart.
Edmo
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,532
Likes: 5
From: Trussville, Alabama
Edmo,
I'm a die hard fan of Havoline and Chevron 10W30. 160,000 miles on those oils, 5K drain intervals, in my 2000 4.2 F150.
BUT...My new '05 4.2 calls for the 5w20 oil. So, that is what I'll run so as to avaoid any potential warranty issues should something arise. (As a side note, 5w20 is the ONLY oil specd. in the owners manual. No other oil is called for in any situation.)
So, all that said, I'll suggest you take a look at Havoline 5W20. That is what I have chosen.
The most recent Havoline 5W20 oil I bought is rated:
SL
ILSAC GF-4
meets Ford's WSS-MC2-930-A
It is a readily available oil and I think, based on my experience with Havoline products, a quality product.
There was some good discussion regarding various 5W20 products in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...1&page=1&pp=20
I'm a die hard fan of Havoline and Chevron 10W30. 160,000 miles on those oils, 5K drain intervals, in my 2000 4.2 F150.
BUT...My new '05 4.2 calls for the 5w20 oil. So, that is what I'll run so as to avaoid any potential warranty issues should something arise. (As a side note, 5w20 is the ONLY oil specd. in the owners manual. No other oil is called for in any situation.)
So, all that said, I'll suggest you take a look at Havoline 5W20. That is what I have chosen.
The most recent Havoline 5W20 oil I bought is rated:
SL
ILSAC GF-4
meets Ford's WSS-MC2-930-A
It is a readily available oil and I think, based on my experience with Havoline products, a quality product.
There was some good discussion regarding various 5W20 products in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...1&page=1&pp=20
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 742
Likes: 2
From: Eastern Iowa
What about for an EFI 94' 300 six? I just switched from 10-40 to Valvoline max life 20-50 in an attempt to make the engine last longer.(it already has 161,000 miles on it). It seems to be really sluggish in the morning. But will this hurt anything on a 300? I guess I thought it was kosher because I had an old f-100 with a 240 in it and ran straight 50wt in it at all times.Hmmmmmmmm.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,899
Likes: 2
From: Lynnwood, WA
Originally Posted by ARMORER
What about for an EFI 94' 300 six? I just switched from 10-40 to Valvoline max life 20-50 in an attempt to make the engine last longer.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 531
Likes: 0
From: North Richland Hills, TX
HD1340, I agree with you. Follow your owners manual and use good quality products, and your truck will last a long time. Some of these threads about oil's and filters are just plain amazing!
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
The amazing part of the threads is that they turn into brand wars. For some folks it's like there's only one company in the whole world that has figured out how to blend motor oil. Use the other stuff and your truck won't make it around the block.
Have a great day,
Doc
Have a great day,
Doc
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,155
Likes: 3
From: Centerville, Iowa
My grandpa was trashing on my choice of Havoline for my last oil change (couldn't get MC in the big jugs..and it was cheap) because they "had a high tar content" in their oils. I kept telling him that their oil analysis results were great and it was probably one of the best three I could be running in my truck. He just thought I was being cheap. Pfft...cheap would have been dollar/quart oil or LESS. Crazy...
I think I might go back to MC though...I dunno, it just gives me that "reassurance" of being Ford-speced and what came naturally.
I think I might go back to MC though...I dunno, it just gives me that "reassurance" of being Ford-speced and what came naturally.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 3
From: NE Texas
Your grandpa is old enough to remember the Havoline oil of the fifties and sixties. If Havoline were the same now as it was then, he would be ABSOLUTELY RIGHT. The stuff in those days was NASTY. You could pull the valve cover off an engine that had been running Havoline or Amalie in those days and it looked like someone had pumped it full of black grease.
I think todays Havoline is not a problem and probably as good as most premium oils.
Have a great day,
Doc
I think todays Havoline is not a problem and probably as good as most premium oils.
Have a great day,
Doc