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oil rail plug leak?

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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 01:48 PM
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oil rail plug leak?

My '97 powerstroke has had a slow leak from the rear of the engine for a few years. I assumed this was the rear main seal until I had the tranny rebuilt and we uncovered the seal to find it was not leaking. I have found the most oil on the back of passenger side head. The exhaust is up tight there and I can't see where the oil is coming from. Before I replace the oil rail plug is there any other place the oil can be coming from, ie. head gasket leak? What is involved in replacing this plug? any other parts, or special tools?

Thanks for the help.
Jim
 
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 02:23 PM
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The oil rail plugs have 'o'-rings. If one is leaking, you will probably need a new o-ring. The turbo pedestal is prone to leaking. If you have to fix it, there are rebuild kits that allow you to replace all the turbo pedestal seals.

Where is the oil coming from? The front or back of the valley? If from the front or middle, you should see some oil pooled in the valley. Even a leak from the HPOP will run down the valley, down the back of the engine, and give the appearance of a main seal leak. I had a leak from that area and it, too looked like a main seal leak - until I realized that the valley cover had puddles of oil in it.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 02:34 PM
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I have not noticed any oil in the valley, some old burnt oil on the pedestal, the only fresh oil I have found is on the back of the pass. head but haven't been able to isolate it to the rail plug.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 06:40 PM
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Hey, I just put my 99 back together yesterday, and had the exact same deal. I was filling up my driveway with about 1/2 qt. every time I stopped, and was picking up some oil on my downpipe. I thought is was the turbo pedestal too, but wasnt. It was the rear plug on the passenger side head. The oring was OK, just needed tightening. I had to put in glowplugs and injector orings anyway. If you dont have to do all, you might be able to get creative with some ujoints sockets and at least check it.. Hope it helps...
 
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 08:53 PM
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Yeah, access is difficult on the 99+ PSDs. I just installed the Tymar HPX line. Simple install, difficult access. Took me an hour to do a 15-minute job just because it was so difficult to reach the plugs - and those were only the #5 and #6 plugs, NOT the #7 and #8!!
 
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 09:14 PM
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Hey Guys, Degreased and steamed the engine earlier, idled it for 30min and drove home 45mi. No oil from rail plug or in the valley. pulled the down tube to get better view, still no oil, but oil dripping under truck. I pulled the inspection plate off the trans and it appears to be the rear main seal. Ran out of daylight and the driveway was getting uncomfortable, more investigating in the morning.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 04:59 AM
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Another place to look is the plug on the back of the head. It's hard to see, and even harder to get to, but there's another plug on the back of each head that will sometimes leak. On my truck, you need to be under the truck, and back by the transmission to even see it. It takes a square drive to tighten it down. There's an O-ring behind it, and if you're lucky, merely tightening it will get the job done.
When one of these starts to leak, you typically will get oil running down the back of the engine, and it will appear to be either a rear main seal, or oil pan gasket problem.
It's tough to get to on an OBS truck, I'd expect it to be even tougher on a SuperDuty, but it's a lot easier than replacing a rear main.
Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 08:41 AM
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Guys on these plugs it's the o-ring that does the sealing, not the tightness of the plug. The best way to stop the leak is to get new o-rings, remove the plug, and replace the o-ring. Make sure there is no trace of dirt and grit surrounding the plug before you remove it and lube the o-ring before you reinstall.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 09:20 AM
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From: STEPHENVILLE,TX!!!!!
theres actuallly a redisigned plug with a larger single oring instead of the multiple ring one. a snap on flex head rachet is the ticket for getting that out. they are loctited in so tap on the head above the plug a couple times to help break that loctite then break the plug loose and wiggle it backl a nd for a few times before taking it completely out. if you run it strait out you can take some of the threads with it. i found out the hard way on my 94.5. had to get a plug custom machined and retap the hole. with the plug redisign also no loctite is needed going back in like kiwik said just some good ole oil to get that oring to seat right.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 02:37 PM
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When you take the plug out do you get an oil bath?
 
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by slc10844
When you take the plug out do you get an oil bath?
No. Quite a bit will run out but it's not under pressure.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 04:39 PM
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Just don't try it with the engine running!

Max
 
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Old Mar 19, 2005 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Max1775
Just don't try it with the engine running!

Max
Uh, yeah!! When I removed my plugs (cold, the engine sat overnight), barely any oil dripped out at all.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 05:12 AM
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Had mine to the dealer for an oil leak and they claimed they replaced the plug seals. There isn't any sign of oil loss in the area of the plug. It doesn't look like they did anything. I still have an oil leak and Ford was billed for a repair.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 08:31 AM
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Does anyone know if this is something that would be covered on Ford's powertrain warranty???

I have the similar leak on my '00 PSD with only 47K mi (the warranty ends at the end of next month).
 
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