what i got is a 78 ford f-100 custom (canadian 6' stepside). with a (302/v8/5.o liter) question is i picked up a air sensor that mounts to the air cleaner. and i'm not refering to the one pcv value on the back
side to the value cover or the breather element filter. this air sensor is about as big as a half dollar and has two little pipes with holes in the end of them that face inside the air cleaner and the other side that faces out side the air cleaner has a single fitting that a 1/4 or smaller black rubber hole would fit over. (question where would the hose run to?

2nd question i removed both door jamp switches. the ends rusted away inside. no wires at all. i see that the new door jamb switches have three fittings for three wires but where do i wire them up to?
i was hoping to just pull out the old ones and install the new ones.
not my luck thou. hope someone out there has been down this road and has a answer for me. thanks a bunch.

 

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302FordF100,
Welcome to this site!
I have a 79 F150 with a 351M engine. It has been awhile since I though seriously about it, but I believe the device you are referring to is a temperature switch located in the air breather. If so, this switch controls the valve in the nozzle of your air cleaner. The hose on one side of the switch goes to engine vacuum; the other side goes to the air motor on the intake nozzle of the air cleaner.

I believe the switch works like this: When the outside air is cold, the temp switch opens allowing engine vacuum to close the valve on the end of the air pick up tube. This allows the intake to suck warmer air from around the exhaust manifold, for better fuel atomization. Once the air coming into the air cleaner heats up, the switch closes, shutting off vacuum to the valve in the air pick up tube. Deactivated, the valve opens allowing outside air to enter the air cleaner.

Concerning the door switches, I have not taken the ones in my truck out yet, but will shortly since the dome light quit working. In addition, the electrical diagram that I have for my truck does not include the dome light. However, looking back to my old car repair days, I have noticed two types of dome light switches in cars: The first has a place for 1 wire only. In this configuration, the light already has a positive wire going to it. When the door is opened, the door switch grounds the wire on the back of the switch to the doorframe, and the light comes on. When the door is closed, the ground is again broken and the light goes out. The second type of switch I have seen on old cars has two terminals on the back. In this case, the switch doesn’t run either of the wires on its backside to ground, it shorts them together. Either switch can work in you application.

If your current switch has only one wire, you may try the following:
Using a multimeter or a continuity checker, check for continuity between the leads on the back of the switch and the switch housing. If you find one, activate the switch to see is continuity is disrupted when the switch is pressed in. If so, hook your wire to this terminal and you should be good to go. If you can’t find one that shorts to the switch housing, test for continuity between the leads on the back of the switch. When you find this continuity, see if it is disrupted when the switch is activated (pushed in). Once you find these leads, attach the wire from you old switch to this terminal, run the other to ground. This should do it.

I don’t have my truck with me today or I would pop the door switch out to see what the other side looks like so that I could give you better information.

Please write back and let us know what you find.
John24255

 

302Ford, in this forum a subject titled "Door plunger switch for dome & courtesy lights", Mil1ion posted a link titled Behind the dash with a wiring diagram for under the dash. This might help with where to hook up your door jamb plungers

 

The plunger switch is a spring switch to the conacts.
When the door is shut, the connection pins are spread from the metal band inside the other part of the switch.
The pin switch can also rust so badly it breaks apart.

But, Usually the contacts on the back of the switch corrode so badly they fail when they are supposed to come in contact with the band of metal.

The connector is a triangular pin type.

A file or emery cloth can clean them up.
Then use some di-electric grease to protect them.

 

to get to the swich on the driver side just take out the guage cluster in the dash, and reach right past the head light park light swich to the left there will be a hole in the side just behind the cluster and your wires for your swich will go through that hole....you must run the wires and connector through the hole for the swich before you connect the swich that way you can just thread it in to the hole after the wires are connected and your done, when you hook up the new swich the dome light should come on automaticaly if you dont have a short in the wireing harness...as far as the passenger side the hole is directly across the truck from the one for the driver side behind the side of the dash...ive had this problem before with my last f-100

 

Ok, I purchased two new switches from NPD and they have the connector with 3 terminals (and mine only had one). Does anyone know where I can get the plug to go on the back of these switches or provide a little help getting some sort or really small ping to clip into the one terminal (of three) to make my lights come on with the new / universal switch?

 

check the one wire you have if it has power going to it then you need to look for your second wire, if it doesn't have power check what happens if you ground it, if the light works just hook that wire to your switch and hook another wire to the switch and a ground,

 

This thread is 5 years old.

The door jamb switch is the same, 1973-1996. D3TZ-13713-A

It has placements for three wires. with a triangular connector.

New switches are adjusted long, and you slam the door closed to adjust them to the proper length.

The three wires that are used with this switch are...

1: Green/Yellow stripe: 12V constant power.
2: Black/Blue Stripe: 12V switched power for the dome or underdash courtesy lamps.

The third wire is NOT used on the 1973-1979 pickups... Only used on 1980 and/or 1984 up...

3: Red/Pink stripe: 12V switched power for headlamps on warning buzzer, key in ignition, or door ajar.

<hr>

If there is only one wire in the connector on your truck, then the second wire fell out of the connector and is somewhere in the cab.

 

Yes, I realize the thread is old, but at least I used the search function before asking a question.
Both my '74 Explorer and my '73 F100 Custom Cab parts truck have a single wire plug going to a single contact switch. There was no extra wire to fall off...much less a plug that fits the triangluar plug on the new switch.

 

what happens when you ground that wire?

 

I looked at mine last night and it lookes like on it there is two wires that go into one plug. Hope that might help but probably not since mine dont work either lol

 

What is the color of the wire in that one wire connector? Without the color of that wire, I cannot identify the connector you are looking at as it's not for the door jamb switches as per factory specs. As per factory spec they didn't use JUST one wire they used two.

As I said previously, the same Door Jamb switch was used 1973-1996, D3TZ-13713-A, and it has a three wire Triangular connection. The connector on the truck is also triangular to match, but only has two wires on the truck side. The connector # is C-703 in the wiring diagrams.

Wire colors at door jamb switch connector per the 1973 and 1974 F-series Factory wiring diagram:

1: Circut #54: Green/Yellow Stripe: 12V constant Power from fuse panel
2: Circut #53: Black/Blue stripe: 12V switched power to dome lamp.
3: Unused

Both of these wires are in the triangular connector #703, and the third spot is left unused. Connector#703 is located on both the driver and passenger side. It's located right behind the hole in the "A" pillar where the switch screws into. Normally you unscrew the old switch and the connector and wiring comes out of the small hole. You unplug the old switch, and plug in the new one, feed the connector back through the hole, and screw it in using a socket. If you cant find the connector and wiring then you will have to dig for it behind the dash in the general area of the hole in the A Pillar, and feed it through the hole to plug in the new switches.

I also owned a 1973 F-100, and changed these switches out. So I can confirm first hand that the factory information is correct.

 

Thanks for the information. When I removed the switches, the wires were not connected to them. I will get out in the garage tomorrow and dig around some more to find another set of wires. Maybe there is another set of wires in the pillar?

 

According to the diagrams, there can be at least 10 different wires on the drivers side, and 4 on the passenger side "A" Pillar area.

The drivers side Wires that go through the A Pillar area: Not all wires may be present due to options or there may be empty connectors in the area...

Cargo Lamp: 2 wires: Green/Yellow and Black/Blue
Roof Marker Lamps: 1 wire: Brown
Door Speaker: 2 wires: Black/White Hash and Black
Door Jamb switch: 2 wires: Green/Yellow and Black/Blue
Dimmer switch: 3 wires: Red/Yellow and Red/Black and Green/Black

Hope this helps...