crossover steering
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
Likes: 12
From: Senoia, GA
i've got it, i love it and i built it. bought the stuff from Shakerbuilt. cost me $200 for all of it. the problem with the 96 D60 front ends is you have a ball joint knuckle and that can be a hair tricky. talk to cleatus, he did it to his
-cutts-
-cutts-
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 152
I bought O.R.U.'s kit. If I had it to do over again I'd piece it together (much cheeper). It doesn't steer as good as before with a 6" lift & drop down draglink, & drop down pitman arm. But going to 9" I had no other choice. It has a bump steer problem now, not serious but annoying to say the least. I don't know what can be done if anything ? Because everything is tight & the king pins are shimmed.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 12
From: Marysville, Wa
being as i have balljoint, building one would be a slightly different escapade, but seth, if you and ivan want to sit down with me this summer after i get moved, and help design something, i'd be all for it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
No problem. I've never done one on a bj axle but I'm sure I could come up with something that wouldn't taco on ya.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 152
Pro, I don't have a rag joint in the steering shaft, just a u joint & slide, both are tight. Bottom steering column bearing is ok too. It steered real good before the lift, cross over, & new tires. The new tires seem to ride ok & I've tryed psi from 30 down to 18 no difference. Put dual shocks on too, no difference & I've always had dual dampners. Found a crack in the frame behind the steering box & welded it, no difference. Will the cross over be easier on my frame ?
One thing though, the long end tie rod bar was a little sloppy, so I shimmed it a little (I know thats asking for trouble) but it wasn't that bad & I wanted to see if it would make any difference, it didn't though & the steering box seems ok though I havent messed with it. The drag link is at 7 deg.
I just keep thinking: It steered fine before I changed the steering & tires. & now it doesn't. Any ideas ?
One thing though, the long end tie rod bar was a little sloppy, so I shimmed it a little (I know thats asking for trouble) but it wasn't that bad & I wanted to see if it would make any difference, it didn't though & the steering box seems ok though I havent messed with it. The drag link is at 7 deg.
I just keep thinking: It steered fine before I changed the steering & tires. & now it doesn't. Any ideas ?
Last edited by mark a.; Mar 15, 2005 at 06:24 PM.
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Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,411
Likes: 2,899
From: Reed Point, MT
Bigsilver,
I built one for my 95 BJ D60. It's really tall and raises the attachment point up 8.5 inches. I mounted the track bar on top of the leaf spring pack (welded the track bar bracket to the spring retainer plate) and the truck has ZERO (read: zip, nada, nothing) bumpsteer.
A diagram of the setup and block I made is in my gallery. SIMPLE to do and I bet you'll NEVER be able to break it. The really only crappy part is taking the knuckle off to machine the top flat and the top forward angle (down to the steering arm). Speaking of strong, that's why I DIDN'T go with ORU's. They only use 3 bolts in a small triangular pattern on the top and a weld across the front to hold the arm on....doesn't look too strong.
Cody
I built one for my 95 BJ D60. It's really tall and raises the attachment point up 8.5 inches. I mounted the track bar on top of the leaf spring pack (welded the track bar bracket to the spring retainer plate) and the truck has ZERO (read: zip, nada, nothing) bumpsteer.
A diagram of the setup and block I made is in my gallery. SIMPLE to do and I bet you'll NEVER be able to break it. The really only crappy part is taking the knuckle off to machine the top flat and the top forward angle (down to the steering arm). Speaking of strong, that's why I DIDN'T go with ORU's. They only use 3 bolts in a small triangular pattern on the top and a weld across the front to hold the arm on....doesn't look too strong.
Cody
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 495
Likes: 0
From: WA
Check out OTT they have awesome high steer arms for the Dana 60. They also sell everything you need for your cross over steering. Such as, the DOM tubing for the drag link, tie rod, heim joints, and steering arms. Not that you need to go that extravagant but they do offer really "quality" parts. They have website and are based in Canada.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
Likes: 12
From: Senoia, GA
the only thing that'll be easier on your frame and steering box is gonna be hydro assist. thats why i did it cause i broke my sector shaft and bent all kinds of steering up on the trail
-cutts-
-cutts-
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
Originally Posted by mark a.
I just keep thinking: It steered fine before I changed the steering & tires. & now it doesn't. Any ideas ?
Actually, the crossover is a little easier on the frame due to the better leverage but like fishy said, hydro assist is the major stress reliever.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
That's weird Mark. I built my own and have no bumpsteer with a single dampener. Are your front springs a high arch? Reason I'm wondering is Pro and I both have fairly flat front springs and we don't get much side shift from the steering. If you have banana springs there's a good chance that your steering is shifting the whole axle from side to side and that you'll experience bumpsteer when they compress. IF this is the case a trac bar should fix the problem.