I'm looking into different options to painting my frame. I'm looking for feedback as to what will last, what some price options are, and if I could do some of it myself. I was wondering if powdercoating is a good option? This truck will be driven on a fairly regular basis so how does powdercoating work out.

thanks

 

Can't help with the powder coating but I have some experience with various paints.

I've been restoring my truck for about six years now and I did the frame about five years ago. The rolling chassis has been in an unheated garage here in Ohio for that entire five years. There have been many, many mornings when I have gone out and the entire rolling chassis is covered in condensation - water literally dripping off every metal part (what a bummer). That is what the following assessment is based on.

I originally painted the actual truck frame using a two-part epoxy primer. I think I got mine from Matrix System Automotive Finishes, MP-480 Epoxy Primer in black with MAV-420 Activator. The stuff is tough as nails. I took a five pound hammer and hit a scrap steel plate that I painted with the stuff and you can just see the mark I made. I've also found that it absolutely does not rust if you apply it correctly. It does require mixing and you definitely need the proper breathing apparatus to use it. There is not a spot of rust anywhere where I used this product properly. There is a slight amount of rust on two parts that I painted with the last little bit of epoxy I had left. I didn't get the proper thickness of paint on them, in fact, I just barely got them to be black, so I don't count this against the paint system.

I also painted some parts using Krylon Rust Tough rattle can paint. This stuff will hold off the rust outdoors in most cases for three to five years as long as the part doesn't regularly see liquid water on the surface (condensation, rain, whatever). With regular water exposure like the frame in the unheated garage, it's probably good for about six months to a year. Indoors, of course, it could last decades I suppose.

I'm looking forward to hearing what other folks have found out.

 

Thanks for the advice George. I will definitly look into the two part apoxy primer. Its great to get feedback from those who have tried and tested it.

 

I used to be a maintenance supervisor for a major health club chain. I had equipment frames, OlmypicWeight Plates, Powder Coated. If you can afford it I feel its the only way to go.

Rod

 

I'm glad I used a fairly inexpensive chassie black epoxy paint because, I have had to grind it, scraped it to the bare metal in several places when trying on various parts,such as the cab, inner fenders, bed, etc.also leaking break fluid. I just get out the primer and chassey black and touch it up with a brush, I envy anyone that can assemble their truck with out messing up a good paint job or powdercoat.

 

Wayne,

Never doubt my ability to mess up something I got "just right" last week.

Seriously, you have a very good point. I've done all the stuff you've mentioned including the brake fluid drips and subsequent rust spots. It's really nice if you can just touch up without having to mix the epoxy, wait the 30 minutes, then spray it on with a gun. I'm hoping the touch up stuff will start to subside once I get the body on. Or maybe when I get the body on, I won't see the damaged areas ... so then they aren't real, right?

 

I just painted my chassis yeaterday with POR15

Messy job with a brush. Took about 3 hours for 1st coat

will do second coat tonight or tommorrow

Didn't gloss up as well as I hoped, based on the rave reviews I have received.

I will comment more after second coat.

 

I use a good corrosive resistant primer and John Deere Blitz black over the top. It touches up easily. I've also used epoxy paints as George mentions. Epoxy is tough. I won't powder coat for the reasons Wayne states. PC is expensive. I'd be sick if I was welding and grinding on it 6 months later, and I know I would be. PC might be a better option for a second Effie body off frame project

 

I used Zero rust, the price is not bad and the finish turned out great, and I can still top coat it if I decide latter down the road, or I can just leave it as is.
Mike

 

Im gonna have mine powdercoated the color of the truck itself, when I decide on which color Im using that is,lol.

 

In 1992 I had my frame sandblasted. Went to the store and got a quart of high quality metal primer, and brushed it on, heavy. Then just used rattle cans of red lacquer enamel. No rust today. Decided to do the red because everyone else does it in black. It wasn't high tech, or expensive, but it worked and looks pretty good.

 

I'm in the middle of repainting the frame from the cab back on my '59. I used the Eastwood Rust Encapsolator (brush on) for a primer coat, and plan to use their spray can chassis black for a finish coat.

I do a lot of painting of woodworking and have high quality brushes and experience. So I was pretty surprised how fast the Eastwood Rust Encapsolator set up and started to tack - especially at about 55 degrees temp. Apparently this stuff is made to react to contact with metal or rust, anyway, it was a race against time to see if I could get the (un-thinned) stuff onto the frame before it set up. I wondered if you could even paint with it at more than 75 degree temps - anyone who was a slow, methodical painter would probably have some problems laying this finish down.

I was also surprised to find that when the stuff dried it flowed out to a fairly nice finish - not one that most of you would find acceptable to finish coat over without some sanding, but it was a lot better than I expected it to be, with good consistent coverage.

Eastwood sells chassis restoration paint kits with both spray cans and brush on. What was I thinking ? - bought the brush-on rust encapsolator kit with spray cans for the chassis black. Now I have to go back an order a spray can of rust encapsolator - because you can't paint into all those crevices and hidden areas with a brush. Course no-one 'cept myself would know if I cheated a little here - but then again, I would know.

I read a good article comparing POR 15 and Eastwood's Rust Encapsolator on the net by somebody who claimed to be independent of either - his conclusion is that Eastwood's products are easier to apply. If I had it to do all over again, probably would have gone to buying all spray cans rather than brush-on, but the final result will probably look the same.

 

You all know my propensity for making "written in stone" decisions... yes sirree,Bob... once I make up my mind I don't change

My first choice was powder coat... but knowing that you need bare metal for p.c. and my frame has some flaws. I can't find a suitable filler material that will stand the 400° bake in .... I realllllly wanted to p.c. but the added work of adding metal to the frame flaws and grinding it out just didn't appeal to me when I can slather on some filler and file it off and be done..... soooo I abandoned that idea for paint.

one of the reasons it's taking so long is that I keep finding or making things that will be added to the frame and I don't want to paint till I get everything added, removed, re added, and reremoved at least twice. I think I'm down to the wire with the radiator.. once I get it installed... I'm sure that everything I have to screw or weld or drill into the frame will be done...yea right ! how many times have I said that... I'm glad I've got my guru to say "well, did you think about _ _ _ _ _ , dummy ????"

I first thought of a urethane enamel but am leaning now toward an epoxy if for no other reason... I can get it cheap through work and I know it holds up well, it hard as my head and isn't quite as lethal as urethane to apply...

now I have to decide on what shade of gray I want and finish the radiator...
that shouldn't take long should it ???

john

 

Quick checklist for John....the stuff I usually end up adding to a painted frame during final assembly

• Exhaust hangers
• brake line clamps
• brake line tabs (for rubber hoses)
• Fuel line clamps
• Handbrake cable hardware
• Sway bar mounts

NOTHING feels worse than grinding off nice shinny paint to weld new bits to the chassis.....except grinding off PC??

There is only so much you can attach with a tech screw !

 

Good list, Mark... and it matches mine almost perfectly

• Exhaust hangers done
• brake line clamps done
• brake line tabs (for rubber hoses) done
• Fuel line clamps done
• Handbrake cable hardware done
• Sway bar mounts still considering ???
• Radiator support done
• Front flip actuator supports done
• E-brake cable clamps/supports done
• fuel tank support nuts done
• Trailer Hitch in design phase
  

There is only so much you can attach with a tech screw !

but Man, don't you love those little self threaders !!!!!
and anyone that can think of more to add.... let me know !!!

later
john