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I have the rustoleum primer you describe in my interior (other than dash). George was being kind when he said it can take 2 days to dry. If it is cool out it can take two weeks to ALMOST dry. I topcoat it with John Deere Blitz black while it is soft, because the topcoat will actually dry sometime today. The rustoleum underneath remains soft for a while. The result is good rust resistance for cheap. Rustoleum red primer is good for the money, but it has major application drawbacks if it isn't very warm out. And I would never use it if I cared what it looked like. Under the carpet is fine.
Rustoleum is also good for less than properly cleaned applications. Like my Bronco suspension. It is basically an oil based enamel, so it doesn't seem to mind as much if the tierods have a little oil residue on them. Still seems to stick decent.
Last edited by fatfenders; Mar 15, 2005 at 07:15 PM.
It seems that a lot of people have asked something like, "I'm going to use rhino liner on my frame and as undercoating, has anyone done this?" Where are they now? Has anyone done it and had it work? I'm not thinking of doing it because I have never heard anyone say that they did it and it worked. I just want to know if anyone went ahead and did it?
I was figuring on using Rhino Liner for an undercoat in the fenders and running boards, as well as a lining for the bed. Not after I got the price, though! You'd think that stuff was gold. They wanted $200 just to do the fenders OFF THE TRUCK!
I used Herculiner ($70/kit) on the bed. I am very pleased with the results. I plan on using Duplicolor spray-on bed liner under the fenders and boards because B/B Ford said to.
I just had my runninig boards done yesterday at Linex. $120.00 for just the topside. But I did not want painted, 'don't step on" boards, so I did it. They look great. I would not use it on a frame though. I do plan to use it as undercoat on my 40 fenders. A friend recently did the same, four fenders and running boards for 150.00. When they use it as undercoat it is not textured and therefore cheaper. I used the Duplicolor spray on stuff on my F100 rear fenders [fiberglass] and it is peeiling off it sheets. I don't know wether the fenders just had not cured, or if it was my spray job. Joe
I just had my runninig boards done yesterday at Linex. $120.00 for just the topside. But I did not want painted, 'don't step on" boards, so I did it. They look great. I would not use it on a frame though. I do plan to use it as undercoat on my 40 fenders. A friend recently did the same, four fenders and running boards for 150.00. When they use it as undercoat it is not textured and therefore cheaper. I used the Duplicolor spray on stuff on my F100 rear fenders [fiberglass] and it is peeiling off it sheets. I don't know wether the fenders just had not cured, or if it was my spray job. Joe
Would you post a picture of the running board. Did they do them on the truck or did you have them off.
sandblast it, spend $20 on rustoleum primer, $20 more on gloss black paint, and it will look just as purty as mine
and its nice and thick, (even thinned down) so it comes out of the gun and lays nice and thick(not thick enough to run) but leaves a nice protective coat, which fights rust too....cant lose
I did a quick patch job, cutting out the entire tops of my running boards because of rust and replacing it with smooth 16 ga. steel, which was left over from another project. The effort was less than perfect, certainly not good enough to simply paint over and I didn't want body filler on them because I was afraid it would crack over time. I would have done a better job, had I known it would turn out as well as it did, but that’s another story.
I got a decent quote ($100) from my local Rhino dealer to do both sides of my running boards and that was considerably less money than a new set of boards plus prep and paint. I didn't know if I would be happy with the smooth boards and the textured look but they have grown on me and everyone else who has seen them, like the look. Another plus is they carry the same lifetime guarantee against peeling etc., as the sprayed in bed liner.
I didn't know that the bed liners came in non-textured. One reason I didn't realy want to use it is that I didn't really like the orange peel texture. I know that most undercoating is textured, but if you spend a lot of time and money you want even the underside to look nice.
Can you buy the non-textured stuff in a diy kit? I've seen what the local shops do and it doesn't look as good as what my 14 and 16 year old neighbors did in my garage. The local dealers body shop uses rhino or hurceliner and has done some of my company's trucks. It peels off in sheets so they take it back in and have it redone and then that layer starts to pay off. The neighbors bought a kit from Napa (don't remember the brand, maybe duplicolor) and did it in a day. That was a year ago and it still looks great.
I did not ask the Linex guys what they do different to not have texture. He did mention that the "undercoat" process requires less "strokes", about 40% less. I have never used the brush on Duplicolor, so I don't know if you can control the texture when applying it. Sounds like I should have gone to the Rhino liner guys. I was told that they were higher than Linex, sounds like that info was incorrect. I will check prior to doing my fenders. Joe
The guy at Rhino told me he could give me a smooth finish if I wanted it but I wasn't 100% sure my welded seems would stay hidden, so I opted for the more textured finish. They also asked that I bring the boards in without priming or painting them, said it would work better for them that way. In negotiating a price, I also agreed to leave the boards for several days so they could work on them when they had the time and not have to do a mix just for them. I took that to mean when other customers jobs were complete they would use the excess on my boards. They kept them for about two weeks, no big deal since I had other things going on. The rhino liner has a more rubbery feel to it than the other liners I've seen.
Yeah, I deserved that one. I myself wouldn't try painting anything over rust unless I absolutely had to, but what the POR-15 people told me is that it was invented for the Navy,
All I can say to that is BS!! POR15 is nothing more than a repackaged and renamed floor covering. Anybody tells you different is a first class liar.
With ZR you must let it dry as it hasa 50% shrinkage. It takes a minimum of 30 days to cure before you can topcoat
Charles; 2 things you said are not related. The shrinkage is the chemical process that bonds the ZR microscopically to the rust. Thats why it is so good. ZR was designed from Day1 to go over rust. POR bonds to nothing, it just smothers it like a tool dip; one nick and moisture gets under and you can peel it away.
As far as drying time ZR will take from 2 days to 2 years. It all depends if you read the instructions and pay attention to the weather.
Ive seen a few brushed on (more like a broom!) applications that were so thick it would never cure. ZR needs to be applied very thin, a little goes a long way in cost also. I paint car trailers outdoors when the temp is over 70 and humidity is low. Ready for top coat of Safety Red acrylic in 3 days max. Smaller items are done indoors in the paint booth and with some minimal heat lamps Im ready in a day or less.
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