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Had '69 heads CCed

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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 06:30 PM
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Angry Had '69 heads CCed

I was at the machine shop talking about selecting some pistons for my 460 and they CCed my heads and they are 79 cc combustion chambers. Is this correct? I thought 1969 460 heads were supposed to be a little smaller? The owner of the shop said a lot of the Ford engines he gets in hardly ever spec to what the factory says they are, especially the older ones. Has anyone else run into this? This machine shop has a very good reputation for their accuracy. They build a lot of engines for the local dirt track racers and truck pullers in the area so I dont think it was a mistake on their part. Heck, is this even a something I should be concerned about? I would really like to keep the factory 10.5 to 1 compression, if that is what it was. Dave
 
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 03:57 PM
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I had my 68 heads cc'd recently and I thought the rebuilder told me that they were 72 cc. I could be remembering that wrong. Are you sure they are 69 heads? 79 cc's seems high. Do you know how to determine the year by the casting numbers? Look for the casting #'s starting with C9VE. The C stands for 1960's and the 9 would indicate the specific year, ie C9=69. The later letters would indicate what vehicle the heads were made for.
FYI, when I had my '68 460 Lincoln engine rebuilt, the rebuilder estimated the compression, with dished pistons, would come up at 9.2:1.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 05:47 PM
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Talking The early castings can and will vary from...

...75 to 80 cc's with 77 cc's being a nominal figure. The volume of the chambers can vary a bunch as old as these castings are especially if they have been decked a time or two. For every .010" removed you lose not quite 2 cc's. Also to be considered are the valves and how deep the dish is in them. Flatter valves will make the chamber smaller too.

All early castings: C9VE, C8VE, D0VE-A & C are essentiall the same casting with no visible differences.

finally 10.5 to 1 C/R is awful high with out a longer duration cam to bleed off some low end cylinder pressure. I wouldn't suggest running that c/r with anything less than a 230 @ .050" cam profile other wise the combo will rattle big time.

Regards,
SMJ/RHP
http://reincarnation-automotive.com
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 06:24 PM
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Thanks guys. Yes I know how to read the casting numbers, C9VE-A, I pulled the engine, tranny and rear end from a 1969 Lincoln myself. Funny thing is it mustve been a mid year engine cause the pistons, bearings and distributor all had C8 part numbers. As far as the CR, this is going into a vehicle that will strictly be off-road and due to the local dirt tracks I have easy access to 100 thru 118 octane race gas so im not too concerned about detonation but i will take your advice when selecting a cam as this is the very first time putting an engine together. My goal is to build a descent performer that I can tell people I put it together myself, nothing to serious. Thanks Dave
 
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 07:06 PM
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Talking Remember that...

The passenger car exhaust ports and all iron BBF exhaust ports are very turbulent and do not flow worth a crap.

In order to maximise power especially with a cam biased toward higher rpm power production you "Must" at a minimum port the exhaust to eliminate the restriction that lies there. This is worth a minimum of 30 HP and upwards of 100 at higher power levels. That latter figure assumes both intake and exhaust port work with larger valves.

SMJ/RHP
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by wvmudder
Thanks guys. Yes I know how to read the casting numbers, C9VE-A, I pulled the engine, tranny and rear end from a 1969 Lincoln myself. Funny thing is it mustve been a mid year engine cause the pistons, bearings and distributor all had C8 part numbers. As far as the CR, this is going into a vehicle that will strictly be off-road and due to the local dirt tracks I have easy access to 100 thru 118 octane race gas so im not too concerned about detonation but i will take your advice when selecting a cam as this is the very first time putting an engine together. My goal is to build a descent performer that I can tell people I put it together myself, nothing to serious. Thanks Dave
Wow, that sounds like a fun project. I wish I had the time to do that. Thinking about it now, I remember my heads cc'ing at 75 cc's, not 72.
Good luck and have fun.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by The "Mad Porter"
The passenger car exhaust ports and all iron BBF exhaust ports are very turbulent and do not flow worth a crap.

In order to maximise power especially with a cam biased toward higher rpm power production you "Must" at a minimum port the exhaust to eliminate the restriction that lies there. This is worth a minimum of 30 HP and upwards of 100 at higher power levels. That latter figure assumes both intake and exhaust port work with larger valves.

SMJ/RHP
http://reincarnation-automotive.com
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Porter, I just had my 68 460 rebuilt and didn't open up those exhaust ports at all. I think the rebuilder forgot that I wanted him to do it so I just put the engine in the way it was with the thinking that the earlier 460's didn't have as much obstruction as the newer ones. Did I make a mistake where I could have gotten the much desired HP? Is it too late to do while installed in the truck. I have been thinking about pulling the headers back off, shoving rags into the exhaust ports and grinding those bumps out. Of course my consideration would be to blow out all of the shavings before pulling the rag. Would this be a stupid idea? Maybe pulling the heads back off would be a better idea? More work and money though. What do ya think?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2005 | 02:09 AM
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The "Mad Porter"
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Originally Posted by olfordsnstone
Porter, I just had my 68 460 rebuilt and didn't open up those exhaust ports at all. I think the rebuilder forgot that I wanted him to do it so I just put the engine in the way it was with the thinking that the earlier 460's didn't have as much obstruction as the newer ones. Did I make a mistake where I could have gotten the much desired HP? Is it too late to do while installed in the truck. I have been thinking about pulling the headers back off, shoving rags into the exhaust ports and grinding those bumps out. Of course my consideration would be to blow out all of the shavings before pulling the rag. Would this be a stupid idea? Maybe pulling the heads back off would be a better idea? More work and money though. What do ya think?
You can not do much good if the heads are still on the block. Ideally they should be removed, disassembled and correctly ported. If you have desires of 450 HP or more the port work really is not negotiable.

Not all of the bumps in the port are bad. some are there for a reason. A good D0VE exhaust port should look like this:

http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/bobm230cfm_bowl.jpg

http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/bobm230cfm_exit.jpg

Good port flow allows more power with less obnoxious cam specs.

hope this helps some...

SMJ/RHP
http://reincarnation-automotive.com
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.
.
 
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