Rebuilding a 4x4 frame.
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Posting Guru
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From: Great NW
Rebuilding a 4x4 frame.
I am going to convert my 1974 F150 2x4 to 4x4, utilizing a complete 1979 F150 4x4 frame. Frame in hand.
Given that, what do you suggest I do, while I am rebuilding the 4x4 frame & drivetrain to make it all BETTER than stock? For the purposes of this discussion, leave aesthetics out (lift, shocks, etc.). I'll be running 33"
Given that, what do you suggest I do, while I am rebuilding the 4x4 frame & drivetrain to make it all BETTER than stock? For the purposes of this discussion, leave aesthetics out (lift, shocks, etc.). I'll be running 33"
Elder User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Canastota
Maybe box the frame?? I believe that will make the frame stronger. Im sure others have better ideas. Dont know too much about this specific area. Is this going to be a DD, trail rider or a all out mud bogger?
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From: Coutts Canada
The real question(s), is (in order or importance) what do you plan on using it for, how MUCH money are you willing to spend on it, and lastly whats the extent of your skills (if you are a good welder, can do a motor overhaul, set up a diff, etc).
All in all once you've answed these three questions (at least a good edmucated guess
) it will be much more easier to answer your questions.
What i would do (since you are only running 33's, for now anyway ) is weld the diffs, or find some ls diffs, rebuild them (extra clutches), find some 4.10 gears (from the wreckers), then i would scrounge up the parts (or fab them up) for a 4" maybe 6" lift (that would look kinda of goofy with 33's though).
All in all once you've answed these three questions (at least a good edmucated guess
) it will be much more easier to answer your questions.What i would do (since you are only running 33's, for now anyway
) is weld the diffs, or find some ls diffs, rebuild them (extra clutches), find some 4.10 gears (from the wreckers), then i would scrounge up the parts (or fab them up) for a 4" maybe 6" lift (that would look kinda of goofy with 33's though).
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2003
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I did this same thing when I converted my F250 to 4wd. I liked the coil spring ride, so I used and F150 frame, and then went from there. If it isn't too rusty, I would leave it. I have done a little with mine, and seen others drive harder than I, and the frames are plenty strong for what you are suggesting. In my opinion, don't get a limited slip. I bought one for a truck once, and after about a year, I was wishing I had spent the money for a locker. The insertable ones are cheaper than a full one, and with 33s will probably last forever. As far as the frame, look around the steering box to make sure it isn't cracked, and maybe consider getting rid of the rear blocks. If you have the $$, consider an 8 lug swap. This will give you a dana 60 rear and dual piston calipers up front. Of course, then you will need a bigger master cylinder and booster, but good brakes are worth the money, if you know what I mean. If the 8 lug thing is out of you budget, look at the Tbird caliper tech writeup. If you go the 8 lug route, feel free to ask me any questions, since that is basically what I did.
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From: Coutts Canada
First i would clean the frame right up then paint it with a nice heavy durable paint, or even a DIY polyurathane paint (its all in the prep), this will help it last, also replace every single nut and bolt you can with new hardware, this will help speed up the process of fixing it in the future (and its not that ex*****ve to do either), and grind out and replace all the rivets on the frame with grade 8 harware. If you get luckly enough, it would be worth it to swap in a hd dana 44 and 60 from a 3 quarter ton (these seem to go for cheap enough still), this would help make it a bit more reliable on the trail, but i would replace all the seals on whatever axles you goo with as well as the bearing, again this will make sure its in tip top shape.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: BC, Canada
mustange70, why do you recommend replacing all the rivets with bolts? Wouldn't the rivets be ultimately stronger?
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The rivots are not any stronger then grade 8's also when you get your tuck all back together and something happens that you need to grind off or burn out the rivots you will be wishing you got rid of them. Believe me get rid of the rivots it will save you alot of headaches in the longrun espescially the rivots that once the bodys on you can no longer get to.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Coutts Canada
It makes it so you can change radius arm bushings in about 10 minutes a side, and since you already have it down to the frame (or close to anyway) so it would be extremely easy to do with a big grinder or tourch, if you do end up lifting it up in the near future having everything with nice shiny new hardware will cut your install time down the road, and this will also reveal any damaged parts that could rear its ugly head later down the road, so it also make for a much more reliable truck for this very reason.
Also you can't tighten rivets either.
Also you can't tighten rivets either
.
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Posting Guru
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From: Great NW
Talk to me about steering, from the steering wheel to the wheels. What should I do there to make it better? Do '79 4x4's use an entirely different Power Steering box than the 2x4's?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: okc
thats what im doing to my F-250, along with boxing the frame im going to replace the rear 3 crossmembers with 4" square tubing, and ill do custom crossmembers for the Tcase and tranny when i get to that point...all this is after i have the frame scraped and blasted to see what i have to work with, its rusted bad, im hoping its not rusted to the point its not usable, the crossmembers in the back are so rotted that two have snapped almost completely off......i think the 4" tube crossmembers and boxing the frame will give me enough strenght that my frame wont be my weak link, instead the weak link will be my D60 rear.... 
....until i can find a D70....BTW: replacing the rivots with grade 8 bolts is by far the best advise ive seen for someone to do to their truck thats not expensive and will save a ton of headaches down the road when stuff gets broken.......
....until i can find a D70....BTW: replacing the rivots with grade 8 bolts is by far the best advise ive seen for someone to do to their truck thats not expensive and will save a ton of headaches down the road when stuff gets broken.......