This is my first post to this forum, so hello to everyone here.

We recently purchased our first Explorer, a 92 XLT 2WD, to use as a backup/hauling/towing vehicle, and so far, it seems like a good SUV. However, when we bought it, it had (and still has -see my other posts, re: "checking a faulty tach" and "fuel gauge not working") a few issues. Among them was the power windows and the crushed "plugs" in the motor unit. IOW, everything was otherwise OK, motor, regulator, tracks, etc., EXCEPT the three "plugs" that engage with the triangular metal gear that moves the window and the round plastic gear driven by the motor worm.

After searching a couple of forums and various other net resources, I took a chance and called AutoZone to see what they might have. I got lucky and got ahold of a manager who is a Ford fan, and he knew exactly what I was looking for. It is labled "Window Regulator Gear Plugs" from "HELP!" parts, and the part number is 74410 (AutoZone's stock number is 426078 - cost in my location was 5.99USD). Looking it up is almost impossible for some reason - you need to know those numbers.

Anyway, here's the fix as I did it on the driver's door:

Remove door panel and speaker (ours has the "premium" AM/FM/cassette with a large speaker in the upper right part of the door - others may be different). Drill a 1/2" hole at the "drill dimple" over the hidden motor bolt, which is located on the lower left edge of the speaker mounting area - with the speaker out, you can see the upper right edge of the motor, and the "dimple" should be evident, based on the location of the other holes for the motor bolts to the lower left of the speaker hole (why the heck is THIS necessary - why didn't Ford simply drill it? I can only figure it and the rivets are tamper-evident, but ??? - anyone?). Once the hole is drilled, remove all three bolts and the motor will slip out with a little wiggling. Unplug the motor and remove through the speaker hole. There is no need to remove _anything_ else - bolts, nuts, rivets, etc.

Once the motor is out, you'll see a small screw with a T-15 Torx head on the round gear enclosure. Remove this and gently lift off the cover. You'll probably find the remnants of the old "plugs" in the form of greasy chunks. Remove the retaining clip holding the metal window-engaging gear from the shaft and remove the metal gear. Remove the large plastic gear and clean both gears completely. Grease everything lightly. I found it easiest to hold the plugs against the depressions on the metal gear and insert it all into the plastic gear as it is a snug fit and putting the plugs into the plastic gear and trying to insert the metal gear made the plugs move out of place. Reverse order to reinstall, taking care when reinstalling the motor in the door to engage the output gear with the window regulator. All in all, not too difficult.

 

Nice Post. Its posts like this that really makes this web site a valuable resource.

 

Great post, just the help I was looking for. Thanks!!

 

This is called a planetary gear system as opposed to a ring and pinion system. The planetary is much stronger becauses it uses 3 planets to drive the ring gear instead of 1 pinion gear to drive the ring in the ring and pinion. Ford uses plastic planets which dry out and get brittle over time. They then crack into tiny little chunks which are much good for moving a heavy window glass up and down. I use a 3" long 5/16" shoulder bolt(metal, not plastic) and cut 3 sections out of the shoulder 1/2" long each. I drop the 3 pieces of shoulder in where I removed the broken pieces of plastic. Add some grease and put the motor back in. You might try a cutoff wheel on a die grinder to remove the rivets instead of drilling them out. The cutoff wheel is faster.

 

I used the tips in removing and replacing the driver's side front window motor-I still can't figure out why Ford makes you drill out the dimple....Anyway, is the procedure the same for the driver's side back window motor?

 

Repeated info to some and possibly added tips to others. There were actually Pics posted by a qualified person that I sent to him. I'm willing to send Pics again to a person qualified to post, if the old pics are not still posted (where?). If you can send a private e-mail address w/o posting on-line. The Bottom Line Is, The Process Is Simple!

My experiences and mistakes:

Replacing my 1993 Explorer’s 2nd power window lift gear-kit. I feel I made a mistake and or discovered two major factors.

1. Can the motor and gear be replaced without removing the window’s 3 riveted and bolted arm mechanics?
I basically put all of this back in place before re-installing the motor through the speaker’s opening.
2. Old gear particle got my attention this time and I opened the motor, which I feel was a mistake due to re-assembling brushes.
Compared to holding the brushes in place with fine mechanics wire, I feel I should have cleaned w/o opening the motor.

Otherwise my old notes of a year ago seemed like Greek but they helped after studying. My 1st job took about 4 hours and I felt I would knock 1.5 hours off this job. I would have done this plus if I had not opened the motor or removed the riveted and bolted window lifting arm.

1. I was patient, did some trial and error research searching for new tips, tested looking for a change direction pop (that I feel was coming from int or ext gears).
I could not hear the pop when I changed directions with the int panel on but the window showed a gear movement and sound vs being smooth. The window has good power and appeared smoother when I tested w/o the panel. Please comment if you experienced this.

2. My Gear Kit came assembled. I have pics of the kit and numbers and etc.. Can you tell me how to send attachments through this site or send me your e-mail if you are interest in pics.

3. More helpful tips were found: Power Window Ford Explorer Maintenance, “next” Explorer Maintenance.
(below in blue that was not allowed on the post )
4. Mechanical Tips:
A. Removing the speaker for working space
B. Drilling larger holes and the 3rd hole (dot in speaker’s recessed area to install the motor
C. Drill out 3 lifting arm support rivets, replace with #grade 5X ¾”X1/4” nut, washer, bolts
D. Supporting the window up is a must PVC in a hole or tape
E. An extra hand to install an aligning punch
F. A nut and a bolt as soon as possible added to the safety of my hands
G. Wearing good leather gloves adds to your safety when fighting spring loaded mechanics.

5. The Dealer quote was 127.00 on parts and 165.00 on labor (292.00). I feel my 20.00 kit and 4 hours R&R was a deal. Plus, I feel I can do the job in 1.5 hours less now that I have experience, and know the needs and sequencing.

6. Please feel free to ask me any questions from my experiences vs me mentioning all the little stuff.

Tanks Again For All The Help!
Joe

 

They don't make you drill them out. It just makes it easier for you to remove and install the motor if you drill out the dimple. The master control switch in the drivers door can cause problems in other doors. If you can hear the motor trying to work you can assume power has reached that door assembly. If not it could be that door OR the master switch assembly. Best to start at the master switch because if you don't have it there it won't make it to the slave door.

 

My Personal experience corrections and comments that I did not note well in the Mechanical tips above and below:

4. Mechanical Tips:
A. Removing the speaker for working space
B. Drilling larger holes and the 3rd hole (dot in speaker’s recessed area to
install the motor
C. Drill out 3 lifting arm support rivets, replace with #grade 5X ¾”X1/4” nut,
washer, bolts

"Step C. Was a waste of time in my opinion," it made the job
harder with needed help and gloves. Steps D – G are eliminated if the
rivets and bolt are not removed. Is this correct?

Plus, my windows were trying to work, needed help with the bad gears.

D. Supporting the window up is a must PVC in a hole or tape
E. An extra hand to install an aligning punch
F. A nut and a bolt as soon as possible added to the Error! Hyperlink reference not valid. of my hands
G. Wearing good Error! Hyperlink reference not valid. gloves adds to your safety when fighting spring loaded mechanics.

Good Luck On All Tasks!

 

The rivets only have to come out if the regulator is defective. I use a die grinder w/cut off wheel, but you can use a punch and hammer to break off the rivet stub in the center of the rivet. You then have to drill out the center of the rivet so the rivet can be knocked out with a bigger punch and hammer. Too many tools for me. That's why I use the cut off wheel. Once you get the motor out you must manually run the window up and down several times in the regulator to check for a bind. Lube the moving parts and window side rails. If it is still hard to move replace the regulator too. That's about all there is to it.

 

I feel my 93’s rear window gear-boxes are due next even though they have not been used. The plastic appears to go bad due to age vs use. I have 115,000 miles on the Explorer. It runs as good now as it did when I got it with 40,000 miles on it 1996-97 (without any major problems). But! I wonder if there are other aging plastic problems waiting to appear??

1. Will the rear window’s gear-boxes be as easy and as cheap to replace?
2. What other problems have you had due to aging plastic or rubber??
3. How many miles have you gotten on your original transmission?
4. A Ford dealer replaced my rear main seal 2-3 times and it still leaks (only a
few drops’ mess vs an issue).

I have basically made all my minor repairs and feel I’ll Bail-Out of the Explorer when a major occurs. Run a search, advance search on Wickware, you should my list of 15-20 repairs that I will share info on.

Good Luck On Your Tasks!

 

I know this is an old post, but hoping someone sees it and answers.
Wickware said the rivets on the arm can be drilled out and replaced with "#grade 5X ¾”X1/4” nut, washer, bolts". Does this mean 5 each 3/4 x 1/4 bolts, or #5 bolts which are 3/4 x 1/4". Also, how is the easiest way to drill out these rivets?

 

My bad memory! Grade 5 bolts and maybe 3. BUT! On my 2nd window I found that was a waste of time and time added to the job. Please note the motor or gear assembly can be replaced w/o removing the rivets. This info should be in one of the post related to drilling large enough holes at the factory marked dimples that give you access to rem the motor/gearbox. Hit me again tomorrow if this is not making sense. I got this message late but I think I answered your question??? jow

 

Thanx! But I want to replace the arm as well. The piece I purchased has the arm attached to the motor, and my truck is rather old - with parts quite worn out. I was hoping to replace the whole thing at once?

 

I am sure I drilled out the rivets w/o a problem. Center Punching the rivet to help start in the center and start with a small bit 1/8th – 3/16th then move up to the size that is the dia of the rivet to rem the head.

Tips I learned working with the arm:

1. Leather gloves were needed at times due to the arm being greasy and sharp
2. A punch to align the holes was very handy as well as a 2nd person assisting just to align.

I hope you get this before the task and that it helps!! jow

PS. When my fuel gauge stopped working it was the bad float in the tank had cracked and was too heavy.

1. Dropping the tank was easy but easier almost empty
2. Remed one rear wheel and used good jack-stand with good elevation, nothing was hard, just time.
3. I remed large spanner holding pump into tank w/o special tools (channel-locks & screwdriver, “I Think”!)
4. The new float was a reasonable cost at the Dealer.
5. There was a post on here or the Haynes Manuel led me on this diagnosis and repair.

Good Luck To All DIYSers Saving Bucks & Learning!! Jow

 

Yes, perfect! Thanx so much!