360 strong enough?
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From: Spokane
360 strong enough?
I have a 67 f-100 with a 360 and three in the tree. Bought a new flatbed dual axle car hauler. No problems on the open highway up to 55 mph, but couldn't top 40mph on steep hills EMPTY! needed a little more power, so I purchased a holley 600 4bbl to replace the 2bbl. still worried that it won't make it uphill with a 2200lb car loaded. Is there anything I should know b4 I try this or am I overstepping my boundries?? Any help is greatly appreciated 
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Gears!...Gears Gears!!!!. look on the tag on the drivers door frame and thier should be "axle" then some numbers/letters behind that like H6,14,or 12. Post back. I would say you need 3.73's or 4.10's.Give her a good tune up to that will help the 360 out.Thier is a guy out here that has a 73 F250 360 that pulls cattle his truck with the trailer wiegh close to 15,000lbs and the big hills slow him down to 60mph but she runs good for dragging 10k worth of trailer. but he has a granny 4 spd and 4.10 gears.
Will 4.10's your 360 should/ barely notice 5K behind ya.
Will 4.10's your 360 should/ barely notice 5K behind ya.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Atlanta GA
I have a well worn F-100 390/np435 with a custom 600 pound flat bed, and a worn out 2150 2 bbl off a Bronco and I think 3.54 gears and I pull a tow dolly with a car up steep hills like there was nothing behind me. I only notice the load when trying to STOP while going downhill 
> but couldn't top 40mph on steep hills EMPTY
I would go to the basics, like carb tuning, ign timing, and dist. timing then look at rear end ratio and make sure you do not have 3.00s or something.
> Will 4.10's your 360 should/ barely notice 5K behind ya.
I agree with that 100%.
> but couldn't top 40mph on steep hills EMPTY
I would go to the basics, like carb tuning, ign timing, and dist. timing then look at rear end ratio and make sure you do not have 3.00s or something.
> Will 4.10's your 360 should/ barely notice 5K behind ya.
I agree with that 100%.
Posting Guru
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No. I would swap gears in your rear axle.I believe it is a 9". It should be as simple as finding a 4.10 geared 3rd member and changing it.leave your trans alone.
I have a F250 with 3.73's and a granny 4 spd and a little 6cynlnder and she will pull 8K and stay at 60mph-my speed limit towing I still have 3/4" of gas pedal left and that is the STEEP! hills. The trailer that wieghs 15K does slow it down but not even to 40MPH
Later
Dustin
I'm getting eather 4.56's or 4.10's
I have a F250 with 3.73's and a granny 4 spd and a little 6cynlnder and she will pull 8K and stay at 60mph-my speed limit towing I still have 3/4" of gas pedal left and that is the STEEP! hills. The trailer that wieghs 15K does slow it down but not even to 40MPH
Later
Dustin
I'm getting eather 4.56's or 4.10's
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i think after reading your first post that you might be getting in over your head here .... not that anything is wrong with the 360 or the 3 on the tree but unless you spend some bucks you might get a truck that can pull the trailer before you add a car. i am not sure how good the breaks are on that old of a model. i just don't wan't someone getting hurt after it runs you down the other side of the hill.
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CO River Rat
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Lake Havasu City AZ
I'm with duramaximizer; I think you're under-trucked. Changing the rear gears isn't going to improve the brakes, suspension or cooling. Are you towing with the bumper, or do you have a receiver hitch? Surge or electric brakes on the trailer?
Steve
PS - Read Daryl Hunter's post about Trailer Towing at 55+ in CA; it's a real eye-opener!
Steve
PS - Read Daryl Hunter's post about Trailer Towing at 55+ in CA; it's a real eye-opener!
Last edited by Steina; Mar 3, 2005 at 05:39 PM.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
lowridaz22, You got issues with the engine setup, something is wrong. Maybe the heads have given way to the nonhardened seats. I replaced the heads on my truck with 24,000 miles on the rebuild because the machine shop didn't install hardened seats. One valve was sunk 1/8" into the head. Get a compression check to see what you have.
Any half worn out FE should not know you have a trailer tied to it. While I have never tried to pull across any mountians, I have pulled a tandem axle car hauler with a F150 4X4 onboard with a 352 FE, C6 & 3.00 rears, up and down the hills of NC and southern Va. with hardly any drop in speed at all. You sure as heck don't need anything more than 3.50 behind a FE. Those are some of the best pulling motors out there. You need 4.10s for wimpy 302s and I-6s, not real truck motors.
John
Any half worn out FE should not know you have a trailer tied to it. While I have never tried to pull across any mountians, I have pulled a tandem axle car hauler with a F150 4X4 onboard with a 352 FE, C6 & 3.00 rears, up and down the hills of NC and southern Va. with hardly any drop in speed at all. You sure as heck don't need anything more than 3.50 behind a FE. Those are some of the best pulling motors out there. You need 4.10s for wimpy 302s and I-6s, not real truck motors.
John
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Spokane
thats what i was thinkin john. i'm gonna throw that holley 600 on it monday and tune it up, have diagnostic and all that done, truck is great without the pull, and the hills i was havin problems on were VERY steep..maybe i shoulda downshifted (duh) thats something i think of AFTER i try it. I'm pullin it off the steel bumper. there is a route i can take, completely avoiding any hills. I'm gonna try it this saturday after the tune up with a gutted prelude loaded, gotta take it 30 miles on relativly flat terrain....I'll let ya know how it goes.
**still workin on how i'm gonna tie it down, center it, etc. Thats a whole other ballgame.
**still workin on how i'm gonna tie it down, center it, etc. Thats a whole other ballgame.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,281
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From: Northern California
I'm not sure the Holley 600 is the way to go. I'd start with a compression check on the 360 then convert to a pertronix ign for about $80 w/coil. New wires, plugs, cap, rotor and see what happens.
Had a 360 in both an F100 and F250 and they can tow like a big dog without breaking a sweat.
The 600 4v might help, but the stock 2v is probably best for towing and torque, just gotta make sure it's adjusted properly and not worn out.
Had a 360 in both an F100 and F250 and they can tow like a big dog without breaking a sweat.
The 600 4v might help, but the stock 2v is probably best for towing and torque, just gotta make sure it's adjusted properly and not worn out.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Spokane
wow, i never thought of that.. thats a good idea, cheap and worth a try. I'm gonna hook it up to diagnostics monday and tune it, get every edge i can outta it.
How about MSD ignitions, any experience with them?
How about MSD ignitions, any experience with them?
Last edited by lowridaz22; Mar 5, 2005 at 10:11 AM.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,281
Likes: 18
From: Northern California
As far as MSD goes, they are great, BUT you're looking at a lot more money. I don't think they work with the stock point type dist without some kind of kit.
The real advantage on the pertronix is that it's simple, cheap, effective and requires no other mods. Getting the pertronix coil and bypassing the stock resistor wire is a good idea and only adds about $35 to the package.
I got a 10% discount when buying the pair from www.sacramentomustang.com
total cost about $100
Most MSD setups are in the $300+ range and may not offer any advantage over the pertronix, esp on a stock engine.
The real advantage on the pertronix is that it's simple, cheap, effective and requires no other mods. Getting the pertronix coil and bypassing the stock resistor wire is a good idea and only adds about $35 to the package.
I got a 10% discount when buying the pair from www.sacramentomustang.com
total cost about $100
Most MSD setups are in the $300+ range and may not offer any advantage over the pertronix, esp on a stock engine.
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