Yep, It's me again. Question for anyone who can answer it. I live in Mass, and I believe the law is that trucks/cars older than 16 years don't need to pass emissions tests, just safety check. My truck is an 86...15 years old, just short of the cut...now the question I put forth is this...my truck is an F-250 HD, gross weight, gross towing weight, rather, over 8600lbs, (i have no idea what the truck itself weighs) which is the cut line for HD trucks, and as I understand it, HD's don't have the same emmisions standards as other trucks...my truck also says right in the engine compartment, as well as on the drivers side cylinder cover, that it is a "Non-Catalyst". Does this mean my truck doesn't use catalytic converters, being an HD? my sticker is up in October, but there is no way the truck would pass emisions, or even come close. There is no emissions control module, barely a vacume hos ethat isn't absolutely necessary, no cats, performance headers, aluminum intake, rough idle, and so on and so on...so what I need to know is does the "Non-Catalyst" label refer to my truck not using cats? Will I still need to meet some emissions standards, or just pass safety? Can I maybe convince the guy doing the test that it is an HD over 8600lbs gross and the "Non-Catalyst" means it needs no converters and therefore doesn't need to pass emissions? Gahhh!!! Maybe I'll just drive and hope I don't get pulled over, and in one year I'll be in the clear...

Ryan
1986 F-250 HD 4x4
351W, Edelbrock 351 Performer aluminum intake
Holley 750 4bbl carb
Extreme 4x4 camshaft
Flowmaster true dual exhaust w/ custom long headers
3" body lift by Warn

 

I'd suggest parking it for a year and riding the wait out. Those emissions folks probably know what they're doing, but I may be wrong. Might be a bit hard fooling them, but I dunno.

 

Talk to someone that does inspections and they will tell you their version of the straight story. You may want to talk to several and you will probably get several variations. I believe the HD trucks did not need a catalytic convertor or air pump or even EGR, for that particular year, but I'm not sure of the cutoff date. Make sure your truck is running good, and retard your timing to around 6-8 degrees BTDC.

I removed the smog junk from mine when I converted and got all kinds of varying answers. The first one said I needed a chimney from the header to the air cleaner (what didn't make sense is the chimney was to close the door on the air cleaner to warm the air for more efficient fuel mixing while the engine was cold...but I have an open air element!!!) The next year a different inspector said that I was not legal on the visual inspection, but the truck ran so clean, he passed it anyway. Since then, I've taken it to the same guy for the last two years and he hasn't said a thing ....passed it with flying colors.

'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik

 

Cool man, I mean, parking it for a year isn't gonna happen, this thing is too much fun. I mean, I suppose there's always the "take it to a small shop deep in the city an doffer the guy $100 and a 12 pack!" But I don't think that is such a great idea...

Ryan
1986 F-250 HD 4x4
351W, Edelbrock 351 Performer aluminum intake
Holley 750 4bbl carb
Extreme 4x4 camshaft
Flowmaster true dual exhaust w/ custom long headers
3" body lift by Warn

 

By the way, how do you mean retard the timing 6-8 degrees? And what is BTDC? Are you saying to rotate the distributor 6-8 degees to slow the idle a bit or to increase idle RPM's? Or is there another way to play with the timing that I don't know of?

Ryan
1986 F-250 HD 4x4
351W, Edelbrock 351 Performer aluminum intake
Holley 750 4bbl carb
Extreme 4x4 camshaft
Flowmaster true dual exhaust w/ custom long headers
3" body lift by Warn

 

I've seen 85 and 86 F150's with non catalist emissions systems.... They have no cat, a minimum of vacum hoses, no egr, and a nice stamped steel alt. bracket. In order to set your timing, you'll need a timing light.....
Evan MacDonald
82 F100 FlareSide 4wd
HD 300-6 9.5:1 CR
Clifford 270H cam
Hedman Hedder
SBC valved 66 240 head
Headlight Relays - Delanty Style
NP435(6.69 low)
NP 205
3.55 Geared ARB'd 9" & Trac-Locked TTB
31x10.50/15 Cooper Discoverer LT's

 

Definately get a timing light or someone to time it for you. It will make a big difference on how your truck runs. Normal operational timing will probably be 10-12 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center) as indicated by the marks on your harmonic balancer. You will be closer to the emissions standards if you retard the timing to 6-8 degrees BTDC from the standard timing. Retarding the timing will typically give you a little more torque, but less top end hp and your engine will run a little cooler. I have an adjustable timer in my cab and dial my timing to 12-14 BTDC for the street, 16-18 if I really want to try and gain some power, and 6-8 for towing. Also, you will get better mileage at 12-14 than at 6-8 degrees.

'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik

 

uhh, I think I'm totally lost, sorry for not following. Like I was saying, the only way to adjust the timing I was aware of was to turn the distributor a bit. Before top dead center of what? Is this an easy process I am not aware of? Is there alot of work involved? Can it be done in a few hours for someone with general, but somehwat limited knowledge? And what do you mean by a timing light? never heard of one...

Ryan
1986 F-250 HD 4x4
4.10 gears, C-6 tranny
351W, Edelbrock 351 Performer aluminum intake
Holley 750 4bbl carb
Extreme 4x4 camshaft
Flowmaster 30 series true dual exhaust w/ custom long headers
3" body lift by Warn

 

I would simply ask an inspector. Surely any vehicle which was produced as a 'non-catylist' vehicle had different emissions requirements than others. I know there is a fixed year cutoff on requiring inspections, but there should be different levels of emissions required for specific vehicles. If your truck was manufactured under those specifications, it would probably pass those specifications as easily as other vehicles can pass their specifications.

Winford

 

You need to get a manual or somethin and read up on this stuff! A timing light hooks up across the positive and negative cables on your battery, a third lead clamps across the no. 1 plug wire on the engine. The light will come on everytime the no. 1 plug fires. Point the light at the harmonic balancer at about the 10 O'clock position and there should be a pointer that comes out from the block and sweeps across the balancer. The balancer has notches ground into the edge with the longest notch indicating top dead center (that is when the piston is at the top of the ignition stroke). The notches after TDC usually indicate 2 degree increments before top dead center. Loosen the distributor and turn until the pointer shows about 6-8 degrees BTDC according to the timing light.

'82 F150 2WD w/351W (orig 300 I6)
Slik

 

Thanks alot...I have a Haynes manual. I figured timing involved rotation the distributor. I have just never used a light. I have always done it by ear till the truck sounds like it it running smoothly with no bog outs or drops in rpms. Thanks again, though.

Ryan
1986 F-250 HD 4x4
4.10 gears, C-6 tranny
351W, Edelbrock 351 Performer aluminum intake
Holley 750 4bbl carb
Extreme 4x4 camshaft
Flowmaster 30 series true dual exhaust w/ custom long headers
3" body lift by Warn

 

 

the LAW says that if it didn't come with one from FORD then you don't have to put one on it, just make sure you point out on your truck where it says NON. I've been down that road, thats like driving a 1955 and getting pulled over for no seat belt. You can't be made to put belts in it because it wasn't made with them. Thats the LAW!