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Hey everyone! I'm doing the brakes on my 79 F250.Wondering if anyone knows where I could find the schematics on the rear drum brakes and procedures for disassembly and reassembly. Thanks, John
just draw yourself a diagram of everything before disasembly and reasemble the same way you disasembled. just remember to compress the shoes a little more so you can slide the drum on.
I was trying to find out in a round about way if it was a full floater or a semi floater and how far he had gotten......if the drums are off, the drivers side is a mirror image of the passenger side, do one at a time, make sure you unadjust the shoe adjuster if you put on new shoes, check for leaks around the wheel cylinder dust seals (replace if leaking)and turn the drums if needed( always turning them is the so called proper way to do the job)everything comes off and goes back on in the reverse order
Thanks everyone,I was mainly looking for the proper way to remove the two holding springs,and finally got enough grip on them to get them to separate.Got drivers side done now I have to contend with passenger side which has been leaking.Can't really determine if it's gear oil or brake fluid but replacing both wheel cylinders and will probably replace seal on pass side tomorrow.Thanks again.John
I've typically had the axle seal go so it is probably gear oil. If it was brake fluid, you would have noticed that the level in your master cylinder would be going down and the brake pedal would be pretty spongy. I had a crack in a rear brake line and those were the two symptoms I noted. Brake fluid is also pretty light stuff and tends to not puddle up. Gear oil will be dark and messy.
Also, I just worked on the drum brakes on my Dana rear end. The factory service manual wasn't that great in giving one a nice exploded diagram of where all the springs and other little pieces go. I think that your best guide will be to have the drum off of the other side for a reference. I had to replace the wheel rear cylinders as I managed to mangle the head of one of the bleeders and coujldn't get it to open to bleed the brakes. I found that I could "cheat" and replace the cylinder without having to take the shoes and springs off.
Well,it's now Tuesday,and finally got the dang thing wrapped up.I really appreciate the help and sorry for not responding to questions ASAP.In my adventures I did find that it is a full floater and really questioned the amount of build up inside the drum because the truck was low on both brake fluid and gear lube when I got it.But replaced both seals and bearings on both sides and had my daughter help bleed the new wheel cylinders and the thing stops great now with no noise,awesome.Now I'm on to engine problems and you can bet I'll check in with you guys. Thanks alot-John
how on earth did you get to postin that question in this thread about brakes!?? Anyhow its prob a 390 or 460 both were known to have factory 4 barrel carbs. 390 will have 5 valve cover bolts and 460 will have more
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