Wacky - No offense bro, but I think I figured out how you got your name. I'm actually confused after reading that post. Not sure which way your going with it. Anytime you use aftermarket parts, particularly made in China, your open to problems with an engine holding up. I don't know if your revving the engine past 6-7-8 grand, but I got a clue for ya, I don't think there are too many engines out there regardless of what size and parts that can withstand that kind of punishment, at least not very long.

Fatfenders - I wasn't talking about the 5.0's because I don't know too much about the design, computer, and fuel injection portions of the engine. The dyno's I saw where coming from regular Mustangs that had a 302 in them. Basically had the manifold, carb, ignition, headers and exhaust. I'm sure a cam and some internal work done. But they were showing those numbers on the dyno. I was impressed. I'd definitely like to what they did, because I'd do the same on my truck. I have the 289 in my truck, but I would guess I was pushing the high 100's on the dyno. I didn't put it on the dyno, in fear something my start leaking and I wouldn't get home. LOL LOL...

Purple - I am skeered, because now this dare gonna cost me some $$$$. Thanks!

 

imlower2, that first motor taught me a few things. 1st was not to listen to anyone when they say you can turn a stock block 7500rpm's daily and have it live, second was not to buy cheap parts etc. When I first built that motor, I took it to Dallas Mustang, had it dyno tuned and the chip turned up the rev limiter to 7800rpm. It was pulled that high and ran on the ragged edge to achieve 430rwhp. I opted for this professional industries piece that was NHRA legal blah blah blah, and never once questioned it. I did notice after the dyno tuning that it detonated terribly, and that it ran like a bat outa hell. That balancer had a little spacer on the front that would never stay tightened so I replaced the balancer with a Ford Racing unit. When I checked the timing because of the detonation before and after the balancer replacement, I noticed how far it was off. Well about that time I lost oil pressure and thought the oil pump went bad, so I yanked the motor and thats when I discovered the split block. When I put it back togethor I changed my combo, heads and cam that is and added the girdle etc, just because. And never once ran it over 6000rpm, and the motor is still togethor, never uses oil etc. Unfortuanately the detonation and stuff costed me my first block. I wish I could post my dyno sheets, the second motor was very impressive, lost 40hp at the wheels without the chip and so much timing, but it was worth it. To get almost 600rwhp I had to use nitrous though. I added an extra 180hp with the bottle, and the nitrous wouldve eventualy cost me another block. I think age is getting me, cause now Im trying to wise up on beating parts up to acheive these big numbers. I dont remember who gave me the wakywaco name,lol

 

Waky

Sorry you got off to a rough start on the forum. This isn’t quite like a Mustang forum. You know you are building motors right on the edge of destruction. And then you're spraying them on top of that. Expecting far more from a Ford part than it was ever engineered designed for. Not at all what most of us desire in our trucks. Don’t get discouraged though. I will be following right along as you build a fast Effie. I’m pretty sure I won’t be alone.

And thanks for sharing your errors. That’s much more valuable than posting up some incredible performance stats.

Catch you later.

 

When I decided to get into my 55 project, I also decided that an EFI 5.0, T5 was going to be the drivetrain and shortly after I got the truck a got an 89 Stang.

With the MAF EFI and the longer runner intake system, these motors made some decent low to mid-range torque and these engines certainly respond to aftermarket mods.

Mine is going to be a driver, no towing or load hauling, so I began looking for aftermarket stuff that would help in the cruising range between 2500 and 3500 so that pressing the go peddle at cruise would give a response. The stang had a 2.73 rear and with a .68 fifth that works out to a 1.86 overall top gear. A 3.73 (2.5 OTGR) or 4.11 (2.8 OTGR) would be the first order of mods.

Unfortunately, the aftermarket is all about drag racing and making horsepower which means cranking it up. Other than displacement increase through stroker kits or forced displacement through a positive displacement blower, there isn't much to provide a decent torque increase in the 2500 to 3500 range. I've read many articles in the Mustang mags including head comparisons, intake comparisons, etc and in most cases, some very impressive results occurred but if they were really impressive, they were actually down in torque below 3500. I'm still looking and thinking.

I believe that if torque is the goal, flow velocities need to be maintained. This doesn't happen with large port heads, shorter runner larger tubed intakes, large headers or wild cams. I will probably be constrained to ported stock heads, port matching at the intake and head joints, 1&1/2" primary long tube headers, 1" spacer between upper and lower manifolds and maybe an RV cam kit with roller rockers. Unfortunately, I have not come across anyone that has created such a combination. If power is the goal, the world's your oyster with these engines limited only by wallet. A 331 or 347 stroker may not be that far out of the way and then the smaller ported aftermarket heads (AFR 165's) might still provide some very good low to mid-range torque.

But this is all dreaming because I've still got a chassis to build.

Just my thoughts.

Regards, John

 

It must be nice to live somewhere that has open roads where you guys can open up these trucks. Here in Sacramento CA the roads are so congested that most of the time a 2.3 litre four cyclinder would suffice. I mean I can only go as fast as that 1998 Honda Civic in front of me. I'm happy with my 289 and will not be swayed by the "Call of the Wild." My girlie 289 will already peel rubber off the line and chirps the tire when it shifts into second. Dewayne, I am surprised at your change in attitude. But, it's your truck and I'm sure that what ever you do to it, it will be done right. But, you know that if you continue to do things two and three times, you run the risk of people starting to call you Niolin2. Jag

 

pjs55, if you want to wake this motor up in a range where you can use it, call Comp Cams and give them your individual specs, they hooked me up with a cam for the 351-c in my street rod and that thing is wicked at low r's without resorting to radical profiles. it was a pretty cheap fix considering I had already had big $ in weber carbs and all of the associated candy. lol

 

Quit playing around and use a real engine![IMG][/IMG]

 

merc!!!where did you get that motor? I gots to have one for my office!!!!My wife will pay good money for one if I whine enough

 

come on now Carl, i could put a lil 5hp Briggs in my 53 and it will have more power than that little plastic toy.....now lets be realisitic

haha....but yea, if i had thousands layin around, id go with a 427 too....

as for the model, i could find a place to put it if you were kind enough to send it to me .....niiiiiice

Darrell

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

I was looking for a real cammer pic but this model was better looking than what I could find!

 

This must be "pick on the new guy" day here at the forum, I guess.

Just an observation- anyone can take this for what it's worth (cost: free)-

yes, the 302 is one of the most reliable engines ever built, on an overall basis. As mentioned, it has proven itself in many performance uses over the years.

That being said, the later model blocks (early 80s and up) are well documented to be weaker in certain areas; and seem more prone to "splitting" when used with nitrous, which can and does cause violent, rapid spikes in peak cylinder pressures. Forced induction, whether turbocharging or supercharging, does not present this abrupt (relatively speaking)change in cylinder pressures, and the later blocks seem to do better with it than nitrous. There are, of course, exceptions to every statement of this sort. Certain other well-known small blocks are known for this splitting as well.

When using nitrous on a reasonably heavy basis, detonation (caused by any reason) can cause severe damage in under a second, under certain circumstances. I can't speak for anyone else, but my reaction time, from hearing this, assuming I can over the exhaust noise, to switching it off, is over one second. Everyone, certainly including me, who uses nitrous on a regular, serious basis has had, or will have a problem at one time or another; it's the price you pay.

Further, many dyno operators, either out of ignorance, or to impress the customer with big power numbers, will set the timing for peak "flash" power under a momentary load. Quite often, this will be 2-4 degrees more timing than is really possible to run without detonation. This only works well if the engine is run for a few seconds at a time, not practical for most of us. It definitely won't work with nitrous. Or for much of anything else.

Personally, since I wasn't with Waky that day, I can't speak for his having a clue back then, or not; however, it sounds like he's learned a few things and is willing to share them in hopes of helping others. When all's said and done, I think that is, hopefully, why we are all here.

Leaving my soapbox now and turning the subject back to 'Fenders's soon-not-to-be-girly 302, Mike

PS: Carl, I've got one of those on my shelf right now, as a matter of fact. Never detonates even on pump gas, either.

 

Fatfenders,
I like your gumption. I also am in the train of thought that smaller can be better and more iinteresting. I like the challenge of using a smallblock and making bigblock power. When I had my 302 in my mustang, I raced a 454 powered bonemarrow, and beat the pants off him. He was a little ****ed. I like the idea of the supercharger. They make GOBBS of power and cost isn't as bad as most people think. That way, you get the mileage of the smallblock and the power of the bigblock. Plus, some are (shhhh) silent and then you REALLY surprise the pants off of em!

All this pro-girley engine talk, and now I've almost convinced myself to go with one. I'm going the bigblock route. Got a 460/C-6 combo for a decent price. Now I'm having problems finding headers to fit. I might have to get them custom made. Gonna cost me around $300-$350. Uggh! I finally got the rearend though....Maybe in a couple months I'll have it all back together!......BIG MAYBE!

Fatfenders, stick to your guns! Get a smallblock....add a supercharger and maybe a small shot of giggle juice and make em all CRY with their bigblocks! Me included!

 

I love my 302 based motors, nitrous and all, I am concerned about making large hp and torque levels to power my truck to hopefully 10 second 1/4 mile times. in my mustangs I can do it with a small shot (150hp jets) and a stock bottom end 302 with heads etc. Im not sure what a 55 f100 weighs, but Im sure ill need in the neighborhood of 600-700 rwhp. Later this year im going to invest in a good block, and probly twin turbo the truck. One thing I wanna make clear though is I want this truck to be fully streetable. I refuse to run something to the ragged edge to be fast. Beating something into the ground is just a waste of money. I have a Eagle steel crank, eagle H beams rods and Mahle pistons now, which are al quality parts. But still a stock block. At 32 years old, Im wise enough to buy better parts, and take care of the motor, tuning etc. I just want a nice truck I can drive daily if I want, and have plenty of power to back it up. working at a speed shop for the last 5 years Ive seen people push there cars too hard, and most of the time they break. aint worth it to me. My ex boss kept trying to use a 400shot of nitrous on a car that didnt even make that on motor, and everytime blew it up on the dyno. Wasted money is the way I see it. If all else fails, il just be happy with my little 400hp stoker and just drive the truck.

 

Oh now if you boys just had one of the ultra bulletproof, strong Y-block motors, you would not be discussing block failures and the like .


Couldn't resist, gotta pull your tail a bit

Now brother could you spare some HP?

Bubba

 

Bubba,

I tried to put nitrous on the 'ol 272, but fer the life of me I couldn't tell if I needed to put the spacer straight, sideways, or on its edge 'cause of them durned ol' stacked intake ports.