78 going up
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Ohio
78 going up
I know this topic has been beat to death but...
I'm going to be purchasing Sky rear Shackle flip mounts
and I wanted to get some extra advise from you guys.
I searched and found a post by fishman and some others about
doing this and they mentioned trac bars. Are those bars that
run from the axle to the frame? And where do I get these for my
truck? (78 F-250 4x4)
Also the Sky site says about 4-4.5" of lift(rear) from this kit but I plan
on using leaf springs up front to lift it to 6". The whole idea behind
me lifting the back was to get the 2.5" lift block out. But I want the
truck to sit level. I don't want the front higher. When adding 6" up front
do I need to buy a crossover steering kit? like here
thanks for the info
I'm going to be purchasing Sky rear Shackle flip mounts
and I wanted to get some extra advise from you guys.
I searched and found a post by fishman and some others about
doing this and they mentioned trac bars. Are those bars that
run from the axle to the frame? And where do I get these for my
truck? (78 F-250 4x4)
Also the Sky site says about 4-4.5" of lift(rear) from this kit but I plan
on using leaf springs up front to lift it to 6". The whole idea behind
me lifting the back was to get the 2.5" lift block out. But I want the
truck to sit level. I don't want the front higher. When adding 6" up front
do I need to buy a crossover steering kit? like here
thanks for the info
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,871
Likes: 0
From: Coutts Canada
If you want the truck to sit level with only doing the shackle flip in the rear and removing the blocks you will only need about a 4" front spring to sit level, 6" if you keep the blocks, and a 2.5" block isn't that bad and should be fine.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
Likes: 12
From: Senoia, GA
trac bars are to prevent the axle from moving laterally... also cuts down on the death wobble. one end bolts to the frame and the other bolts to the axle. they are very easy to make and dont' have to be exact. i made one from a 3 point hitch off a tractor. hope that answers your question.
what i would do (b/c it is very hard to advise when every truck is setup a lil bit different and will react a lil bit different) is to go ahead and lift front up. then do the shackle flip in the rear... afterwards use whatever size blocks you need if any. personally i would get the 6" lift springs AND do the shackle flip.... back when i had 6" lift springs on my F150 I still had to have blocks in the rear.
-cutts-
what i would do (b/c it is very hard to advise when every truck is setup a lil bit different and will react a lil bit different) is to go ahead and lift front up. then do the shackle flip in the rear... afterwards use whatever size blocks you need if any. personally i would get the 6" lift springs AND do the shackle flip.... back when i had 6" lift springs on my F150 I still had to have blocks in the rear.
-cutts-
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 247
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From: Ohio
Cool thanks for the info guys!
I was going to leave the block in but someone here told
me that it looked and probably is unsturdy.
I would like to just leave it in to add to the height
cause I would like to move up from 35's to some 38's BUT
I do wheel the truck alot and I don't want it to be unsafe
on the trails.
When adding 6" up front
do I need to buy a crossover steering kit?
Here's a picture of my rear set up.
I was going to leave the block in but someone here told
me that it looked and probably is unsturdy.
I would like to just leave it in to add to the height
cause I would like to move up from 35's to some 38's BUT
I do wheel the truck alot and I don't want it to be unsafe
on the trails.
When adding 6" up front
do I need to buy a crossover steering kit?
Here's a picture of my rear set up.
Last edited by gyger1; Feb 23, 2005 at 09:26 AM.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
Likes: 12
From: Senoia, GA
you dont' need to but man o man it sure makes a difference. it'll wear your TRE's out twice as fast. i suggest doing what i did and leave the drag link (rod that goes from knuckle to knuckle) where it is but flip it over so it is now on top of the knuckle... that'll give some extra clearance. then get a high steer arm from rockstomper or shakerbuilt, get ES2026/2027 TREs (i think i can't remember the p/n's) for a chevy one ton truck from napa (best price) .... they'll have the 7/8-18 thread count. then to finish it off get some DOM tubing and either tap the tube itself (what i did) or buy the weld in sleeves. both works good but you'll have to find a tap big enough whihc is ually hard to do.
i got all my stuff from shakerbuilt and he was real good on his prices and does a very good job workmanship wise... my only complaint is he is SLOW... took like 3 weeks to get all my stuff in!
anywho good luck man
-cutts-
i got all my stuff from shakerbuilt and he was real good on his prices and does a very good job workmanship wise... my only complaint is he is SLOW... took like 3 weeks to get all my stuff in!
anywho good luck man
-cutts-
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,924
Likes: 153
I used a drop down drag link & a drop down pitman arm when I had 6" of suspension lift. Worked good. Once you go higher than 6" you have to go with cross over. I still have the pitman arm. pm me. Your pm isn't turned on.
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