Help save my truck
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Help save my truck
92 F150 5.0 AOD 3.55 open rear P235 15 tires 245,000 on meter, 3000 miles on rebuild engine & tranny. This truck is a wimp, no spunk at all, it runs rich tailpipe very sootie. I can't get 12 mpg. with it. It is throwing codes, but have had no success with changing sensors. I installed a new ox sensor.
I have driven 5.0 EFIs before and was impressed with the small v8, but this one is a dog.
Where do you start looking when you want to correct this problem. The rebuild was a basic 30 over no upgrades. The power level has to increase, as well as the mpg to at least 16 mpg at 2000 rpms or it soon get a for sale sign. I can not afford this truck. I have a 66 F100 FE C6 3.00 that I can get 13 mpg with and a lot more power.
We are gonna work on the codes again today.
John
I have driven 5.0 EFIs before and was impressed with the small v8, but this one is a dog.
Where do you start looking when you want to correct this problem. The rebuild was a basic 30 over no upgrades. The power level has to increase, as well as the mpg to at least 16 mpg at 2000 rpms or it soon get a for sale sign. I can not afford this truck. I have a 66 F100 FE C6 3.00 that I can get 13 mpg with and a lot more power.
We are gonna work on the codes again today.
John
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,665
Likes: 0
From: B/CS, Texas!!
I would say check the fuel pressure. Mine was giving me 65PSI at Idle. The regulator was bad and after a new one, I get 35PSI. I was getting 7-8MPG and right now I get 12.
Here's a little test for the Fuel regulator (thanks to fefarms):
-Remove the Vacuum Line going to it. Then, cycle the key to ON a couple of times. If you see gas squirting out of it, the regulator is bad.
The thing is, my regulator did not squirt gas out, so check the fuel pressure.
Here's a little test for the Fuel regulator (thanks to fefarms):
-Remove the Vacuum Line going to it. Then, cycle the key to ON a couple of times. If you see gas squirting out of it, the regulator is bad.
The thing is, my regulator did not squirt gas out, so check the fuel pressure.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: SC lowcountry
After you check fuel pressure either sat or bad (fix), then get codes. Write all them all down and clear them. Then see what comes back - if you are getting lots of codes it can be really misleading. Make sure plugs cap rotor etc are new and good quality components. If you are running real rich the new Ox sensor may have been damaged. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks; lines gaskets etc. Good luck.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,467
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From: N. Gwinnett Co. Georgia
Fuel Pressure regulator
It definetly sounds like the regulator is toast. If it is run too long the O2 seneor will foul. Once you check the regulator and replace, go ahead and replace the fuel filter while the system is depressurized, $9.00 part. Go to fordfuelinjection.com and/or get a code reader and once the codes are cleared after the r&r on the regulator, start it up and get some codes. Post the codes and we will help, that's what the forum is for. Even though you just rebuilt the engine/tranny, do a compression test, sometimes things can go wrong. At least you'll know. And change the plugs while you're there, I'm sure they're fouled due to the over-rich condition. When all that is done, you're probably gonna have to replace the O2 sensor as it fouled out. Start here and make a list, eliminate each issue and move on in a logical order.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,467
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From: N. Gwinnett Co. Georgia
t_dickie brings up a valid point and if it runs overrich way too long, it will affect the cat as well! Good point. These trucks are a system, one thing will definetly affect another.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Brandon Mb
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
I'll let John say for sure, but I think that the cat was recently replaced, the engine has 3000 miles on it (and tranny), all ignition parts and gaskets were replaced with the engine. All that should be good. John are you still getting that MAP sensor code? A faulty MAP sensor can cause a rich condition as well. I have one at my house you can try if you want. I don't know when you'll be over at HRT next, but I'm gonna be in Durham for a little while tomorrow morning. I could test some things electrically if you have time and want me to.
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Update
We went to work on the codes yesterday, swapped in another MAP and the light now stays off. I drove the truck from north west Durham to Garner and back 70-75 mph about 100 min drive time and the light didn't come on. I bought a new fuel filter but didn't have the tool with me to remove it.
What is needed to read the fuel rail pressure? This truck is a dog as far as power & mpg go. I can put up with the low power but it has to get at least 16 mpg to stay. I have buds with this same setup getting 17-18 mpg
John
What is needed to read the fuel rail pressure? This truck is a dog as far as power & mpg go. I can put up with the low power but it has to get at least 16 mpg to stay. I have buds with this same setup getting 17-18 mpg
John
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,467
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From: N. Gwinnett Co. Georgia
If the fuel pressure is out of range you have several contributory issues: #1 It's blowin' more than the necessary amount of gas at the injectors = reduced mileage; #2 It's confusing an array of sensors = reduced gas mileage; #3 It has probably fouled the O2 sensor causing a resulting overrich condition = reduced gas mileage. When my fuel regualtor took a hike performance suffered as well as mileage. EPNCSU2006 is offering to assist, PM him. What'll it cost?
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Hey Tex, I will call him later, having raised to sons through college, I know he aint up for a while yet. lol
My oldest son just moved back here after a stay in your area. He had a home in Buford across Peachtree Industrial, about 3 miles from the lake dam.
John
My oldest son just moved back here after a stay in your area. He had a home in Buford across Peachtree Industrial, about 3 miles from the lake dam.
John
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,665
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From: B/CS, Texas!!
To check pressure, you need a Fuel Pressure Test gauge. I bought one at Advance Auto for like $40.
On the fuel rail you will see a Shrader valve. Hook the gauge onto that, and turn the truck on. Pressure should read around 35PSI at Idle.
On the fuel rail you will see a Shrader valve. Hook the gauge onto that, and turn the truck on. Pressure should read around 35PSI at Idle.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Thanks guys, Maybe we can borrow one from the shop near where we are working on the truck. We will be installing new heads on my 66 FE today.
I didn't get around to installing the new filter yesterday.
I'll update if the filter helps, thanks for the tips, you can always count on FTE.
John
I didn't get around to installing the new filter yesterday.
I'll update if the filter helps, thanks for the tips, you can always count on FTE.
John
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,467
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From: N. Gwinnett Co. Georgia
Borrowed gauge
jowilker,
Advance let me borrow theirs and I tested in front of the store. Took maybe 5 minutes. I'm sure that you already know to bleed the pressure prior to any fuel component replacement, 'nuff said.
Advance let me borrow theirs and I tested in front of the store. Took maybe 5 minutes. I'm sure that you already know to bleed the pressure prior to any fuel component replacement, 'nuff said.
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