'95 Ranger transmission removal (top 2 bolts)
#16
12-30-2012, 06:23 PM
Hi Lannondiesel,
I don't know if I would go to all the effort of unbolting the cab (more rusted bolts to deal with). I finally got all but one of those nasty buggers out by using a combination of PB Blaster and MooVit rust penetrating oils and time. I sprayed the bolts, let them sit a couple of hours and sprayed again over the course of two days. Then they broke loose with a long bar and a little coaxing. The last bolt never did come loose but snapped off at the manifold.
I found it easier to start with a small drill bit and drilled a pilot hole up through the dead centre of the bolt, then increased to a larger size and kept increasing until I had drilled the entire bolt out. I then went one size larger and just bought a bolt and nut instead of trying to retap the hole. Worked like a hot damn and managed to salvage the truck.
One leason I learned the hard way though is after all the work of pulling the damn thing out, replace....i mean REPLACE the slave cylinder. I chose to not do that and guess what....I had to rip everything back out a second time because it failed when I tryed to bleed the system. Murphy's LAW man....it holds true.
Anyway, good luck and just keep plugging away, you will win in the end!
Dale
I don't know if I would go to all the effort of unbolting the cab (more rusted bolts to deal with). I finally got all but one of those nasty buggers out by using a combination of PB Blaster and MooVit rust penetrating oils and time. I sprayed the bolts, let them sit a couple of hours and sprayed again over the course of two days. Then they broke loose with a long bar and a little coaxing. The last bolt never did come loose but snapped off at the manifold.
I found it easier to start with a small drill bit and drilled a pilot hole up through the dead centre of the bolt, then increased to a larger size and kept increasing until I had drilled the entire bolt out. I then went one size larger and just bought a bolt and nut instead of trying to retap the hole. Worked like a hot damn and managed to salvage the truck.
One leason I learned the hard way though is after all the work of pulling the damn thing out, replace....i mean REPLACE the slave cylinder. I chose to not do that and guess what....I had to rip everything back out a second time because it failed when I tryed to bleed the system. Murphy's LAW man....it holds true.
Anyway, good luck and just keep plugging away, you will win in the end!
Dale
#17
12-30-2012, 07:08 PM
Yes Sir....totally redrilled in place. It's a bitchy job and took a little while but I did get it drilled out. If you have access to a cutting torch, that could be another option....I read on another post here somewhere that one of the fellows blew out the old bolts with the torch as the manifold won't melt at the same temp as the bolt, you apparently can have some success doing that. It would be much quicker than drilling but I didn't have a torch so was stuck doing it the slower way.
Good luck
Good luck
#18
03-17-2013, 08:14 AM
Replacing clutch ,4.0l , 5speed 4x4 ,97 ranger
This post is a little old but but here's my two cents. I am putting a new clutch in my sons Ranger. I used the multiple extensions and get to the upper bolts. I have been able to remove the tranny without removing the exhaust y-pipe. 3 of the 4 the y-pipe bolts are not cooperating. I removed the 4 bolts in the center of the two piece cross member. I had to remove the pressure plate when the tranny was moved back a couple inches and deform the floor board for clearance. This won't work for reassembly. I am sure enough heat would solve the problem but quarters are close and I don't want to burn down the garage. I plan to cut the floor board to gain the clearance and make an inspection panel. Did an older Jeep tranny and it had a huge portion of the floor you could remove. Might be able to make it big enough to allow getting at the upper bolts. Anyone one had any success with this approach?
#19
10-24-2017, 02:23 PM
I was able from the bottom to get a small box end wrench to sit on the head of the bolt from inside of exhaust and then put a 12" box end with the open end through the box of the box end of the small wrench and then bang on the bottom to break it loose and unscrew with my fingers.
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