'95 Ranger transmission removal (top 2 bolts)
 

How in the heck do you get the top 2 bolts off of the transmission housing? They seem to be positioned in such a way that they are impossible to remove. Any help is appreciated, thanks.:-huh

I used a wrench from the top side.

Welcome to FTE!!!

i used a 3/8 drive long handle flex ratchet.

I removed them coming from the top of the engine, takes a few minuetes because it is so tight, but will eventually come out

top two bolts on 93-94 Ranger
 

Howdy: When you have to pull these trannys several times in a one week period,, you kinda develop some "techniques" I installed a floor jack or transmission jack under the transmission. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe and catylytic convertor. Then remove the transmission support and SLOWLY let the back of the trans. down about 3 to 4 inches. You will need several 3/8" drive extensions to reach the top two bolts with your ratchet situated on the top,SIDE of the trans. ( you will need to be situated just about where the end of tailshaft is and looking towards the back of the motor) If you try to hold your ratchet on the bottom SIDE of the trans.,,your socket will just keep slipping off the bolt heads. Just remember,,after you get the trans out,,,get a shop hammer and work the sheet metal "lip" that makes this so hard down and it will be even easier on reassembly. Hope tiis helps. If you have problems with your hydraulic clutch,,,give me a shout. I learned a thing or two about clutches on this very forum. Take care desert joe

1995 ford ranger
 

about how long does it take to remove tranmissiom on 1995 ford ranger??
i am having to refill fluid about every 3 days?? i don"t see any fluid leaks
on lines?? how many bolts that hold trans??

Top Bell Housing bolt removal
 

I know this is after the fact, but I just pulled the 4.0L engine on my 2003 Ranger twice in the past two years. The second time I did it a lot easier after having done it once already. With the intake removed (fairly simple) it is pretty easy to get to the top bolts that connect the bell housing to the motor block. It saves a lot of knuckle skin doing it that way. :-X03

I have made the mistake that you might be making before. It is very likely that there is a vacuum hose going from a switch of sensor on your transmission going up to your intake. If so, find it and remove one end and see if there is transmission fluid in it. I found this to be a problem in a Thunderbird that I used to own. I removed the entire transmission to find out that I only needed to replace an inexpensive switch. It just sucks the transmission fluid into the intake and burns it. It does keep the intake valves and top of the pistons lubricated though. :)

I recall those last two bolts were murder, but the previously mentioned idea of lowing the tranny and using a stack of ratchet extensions worked for me. Another necessity is a bright light so you can see what you're reaching for at such a distance.

I have some very long extensions 3ft long and use a u-joint or flex socket and an impact wrench works well. Ditto on working on the sheet metal seam once you have the trans out.

One more trick when reassembling: Take one of the mounting bolts(probably metric) to the parts store and buy 4-6 of the same thread but longer. Cut off the hex heads and slot the ends of the shafts. Screw then into the engine as locating pins and once the tranny is positioned, remove them with a slotted screw driver one at a time and replace with original bolts. An "old head" at the shop shared that with me to save my sanity, so I share it with you.:-X04

More info on this great solution please
 

Hi Desert Joe,

If your still around and have a minute...I have another question for you or anyone else that may care to reply. But first, I want to thank you for your tip here for getting at those last two miserable bolts...I really think it will help me out.

Do you have any tricks for getting the exhaust crossover pipe and catylytic convertor off without destroying the parts? The bolts are so badly rusted that I'm afraid I'm just going to snap them off with a long bar and my impact won't even touch them. Am I looking at purchasing new exhaust parts ontop of the clutch pieces I have already bought? If so, this might put the total over the top for my wife's old truck (although it's otherwise in very good condition) and she's done paying....wants to junk the truck rather than invest any more cash.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks everyone for the great information.....

Dale

I'm in the same situation as you, I am attempting to do the clutch on my brothers '96 Ranger and I can not get the trans out with the exhaust in place and my exhaust will not come off either, I broke both studs on one manifold and the can not budge the bolts on the other side. I am wondering if i can sawzall that body "lip" off and gain enough clearance to slide the transmission out, anybody attempt this in the past? Because of the already busted exhaust bolts that need to be repaired, my brother is already considering junking the truck.

I was also considering loosening the cab mount bolts and jacking the cab up an inch.... not sure if thats a good idea or not.....

Broken Bolt Removal
 

Hi Lannondiesel,

I don't know if I would go to all the effort of unbolting the cab (more rusted bolts to deal with). I finally got all but one of those nasty buggers out by using a combination of PB Blaster and MooVit rust penetrating oils and time. I sprayed the bolts, let them sit a couple of hours and sprayed again over the course of two days. Then they broke loose with a long bar and a little coaxing. The last bolt never did come loose but snapped off at the manifold.

I found it easier to start with a small drill bit and drilled a pilot hole up through the dead centre of the bolt, then increased to a larger size and kept increasing until I had drilled the entire bolt out. I then went one size larger and just bought a bolt and nut instead of trying to retap the hole. Worked like a hot damn and managed to salvage the truck.

One leason I learned the hard way though is after all the work of pulling the damn thing out, replace....i mean REPLACE the slave cylinder. I chose to not do that and guess what....I had to rip everything back out a second time because it failed when I tryed to bleed the system. Murphy's LAW man....it holds true.

Anyway, good luck and just keep plugging away, you will win in the end!

Dale