I recently got a hand-me-down truck from my sister. It's been in the family for a few years, so I'm pretty familiar with it. Now that I own it, I'm trying to fix it up. First goal is getting the engine to it's original state.

A former owner replaced the original motor with an 83' 351. It seems that the 83' motor didn't have an air pump on it, since it doesn't have a space for the belt on the crank pulley. What differences will I find from 83' to 84'? I need to get the truck to pass the emissions inspection and the missing air pump is a big problem. The bracket for the pump is there, and there was a tube that ran from one cyl. head to the other with a fitting in the center behind the carb. I took off the pump at it was seized up, and the tube rusted into pieces. I wish I had taken a photo before I did that.

The truck runs fine without the air pump, although I had to plug a few vacuum lines when I pulled off the air pump(hence why I need the photo). I'm also finding that alot of the vacuum lines are breaking from age....any ideas on replacing those? The original ones are an unusual plastic and in different colors as well.

The truck sometimes surges during the first few minutes of driving, like it become fuel starved for 5-15 seconds, then it goes away(may repeat a few times). I'm guessing the jerry-rigged emissions may play a part, so I want to fix those first to reduce the variables.

Any help would be appreiciated. I tried to order a factory shop manual but they are out of stock.


Thanks,

Bryan J.

 

Is the smog pump mounted directly over the alternator? And does the alternator have a double pulley? If so, believe it or not, there is a short belt that runs from the alternator pulley to the smog pump. Doesn't go around the crank pulley at all. You will need to repair or replace the piping to the rear of the cylinder heads as well as replace the check valve that screws onto the piping before it goes to the pump. When this check valve goes bad, especially when the pump is disconnected, is what causes the pump to lock up, because all the exhaust leaks into the pump and ruins it. I would assume too, you have an exhaust leak if your pipe is rusted through. Those vacuum lines probably went to the diverter valve, but I haven't a clue how that is hooked up.

 

Some of the older '82-'85 F250s did not require all the smog equipment and did not even have catalytic converters. I "lost" my air pump and all the associated plumbing from my '82 F150 when I converted from an I-6 to a 351W. I was really worried about not having a smog pump and I kept the associated hardware for a while to rebuild it if I needed to. It's been 4 years of inspections and never have I had one inspector even ask about the air pump....but, it probably depends on where you are at. I do know there is a lot of confusion over what type of smog equipment goes with what type of vehicle depending on the size for those years. My first suggestion is to get rid of all evidence that you even had a smog pump and pull the air pipe off the back of the heads. You will need a plug from Ford to plug up the air pipe holes. If you need a pump, then try to get one from a junk yard. Those pumps cost an arm and a leg. Take your camera along to the junkyard and see if you can get some pics before the pump and hardware is removed. Oh, I also have the air pipe between the heads and the valve that mounts in the center of the pipe if you want them (brand new and yours for the shipping costs)...it's for the 351W, but I believe the 351M is the same width.

As far as rough idle 'till warm....it sounds like you still have a vacuum leak. I went through and cleaned up all my vacuum lines. It took a while since I had to understand each of the vacuum circuits and their functions, then I got rid of every vacuum line I could live with out. I replace mine with the rubber vacuum lines sold at Advance Auto, but if you want the color coded lines, I believe Baker Precision out of Baker, California sells the colored lines.

Good luck,

Slik

 

Well, I'm learning one thing quickly about old trucks. Apparently, you don't buy 1 old truck, it rather a a series of trucks from which all parts come together to form a single truck

My alternator only has room for the one belt, so it looks like that would have to be changed. Must be the 83' alternator, it is not the original. As far as getting some hard part numbers, there is so much oil on the block that I can't find the number. Someone painted over the stickers on the valve covers. It may take a while to clean it all up. I hear the number I need is above the starter...how on earth can you guys see that even when the engine is clean?

I've gathered that if my engine is in fact an 83' motor, then it is a Windsor, not a 351M. Until then, I'm going to be cleaning the motor up, 19 year old valve cover gaskets mean about 10 years of oil spray accumulated on everything beneath them

I've seen alot of folks posting ID #'s for their engine, trans, etc. Is there a lookup table somewhere rather than posting them here? My Chiltons manual doesn't specify the definitions of the numbers very well. I also think my rear axle has been replaced and I'm not sure how to figure that out. Now I know why people buy cars new.


Regards,

Bryan J.

 

If it's a 351w, it will have 6 bolts holding the valve cover on. If it has 8 bolts on the valve cover, it's probably a 351m if you think it's a 351, but it also could be a 400 or very unlikely a 351c.

 

Why don't you want to post the numbers here?

This site is where all the information is just waiting to jump back at you.

Post the numbers/letters and watch what happens.


Dennis



It's Almost Time Everyone.

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78 F-150 429CJ C6 ,Silver w/Explorer Pkge
641/2 Mustang,Pre-World's Fair Car #8092
64 Fairlane S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang.Sunlit Gold 80,000 miles

 

Well, I finally found out some more information. I was able to get under the paint to the sticker on the valve cover. No luck on the block casting number(where is it again?).

The number on the valve cover looks like this:

W
EK440AA
1

The date code looks like a J29, or those are the numbers that have been punched out of the sticker on the three lines below the number in large letters. The W1 indicates that it is a Windsor, the E indicates 84', the K indicates Thermactor with A/C or non A/C, but the 440 I can't decode. Any help there?

Tha calibration code is A 64H R0, which corresponds to an 84' 351 motor. I found the Transmission is a C-6, the rear end is a type 22(located in door jamb) which indicates a 4.10 rear axle. The carb is an E4TE ACA, which corresponds to a model 2150 for a 351W engine.

Down at the Ford Dealer, the photo thet have of the motor for an 84' F250 doesn't look quite like my motor. I thinking that this 84' motor may have come from a full size car perhaps? My engine has 5 fan blades, the photo has 4. The photo shows the smog pump driven off the fan pulley, mine only has one groove with the belt going to the crankshaft. My air cleaner does NOT have a thermostat in it, just a vacuum motor to move the vane. The hose for the heated air for the air cleaner is round and just connects to a metal holder at the front of the right exhaust manifold. My oil breather goes into the left side of the air cleaner, not the front as in the photo.

The reason I didn't just throw a bunch of numbers here is that I thought it would get old to decode part numbers all the time. I'm on a Message Board with my other vehicles and there are alot of identical questions that are asked at least 50 times a month and are in the FAQ....basically I wanted to look for something before I asked where it is. Just like the guy that won't ask for directions


Bryan J.