I recently had the 2.9 replaced in my BII with one that was allegedly rebuilt 10k miles ago. A friend did the swap, and after a bit of debugging, it is now running. The first time I drove it, the oil pump filter got clogged up with a bunch of junk from the engine. I had a guy drop the pan and clean it out, and it did fine for a little while. I just drove it locally because I am sure that there is more junk waiting to clog up the oil pump again. Well, two weeks ago it happened again, so I changed the oil - it was a nasty brown color and very thick. I replaced it with 10W20 and one quart of Marvel's Mystery Oil. For the first minute or so, the oil pressure "gauge" read zero, but after that it came up and the engine idled fine for about half an hour. I then added some Gunk and ran it for 5 minutes and changed the oil again. I used 10W20 and another quart of Marvel's. It idled flawlessly for half an hour. I drove it last night, and the symptoms returned - what sounds like valve ticking and zero oil pressure. I parked it and plan to change the oil again this weekend.

My question is: is it possible to actually get all the crud/crap/junk out of my engine by repeating this cycle, or do I need to do more? I don't really have the facilities to do an engine pull (my "garage" has really become a closet), and I believe this may be the only way to get the pan and the valve covers off and do a real cleaning. Do I need to do more, like a complete rebuild?

The engine runs well when the oil pressure is up, and there is no smoke coming from the exhaust. Please opine.

 

ticking problem are common in bronco2's they are the lifters what you hear you can our thicker oil in there and it will quiet down the problem some you can add mmo also and it does help but what MMO and any other product like does it clean out all the cavities oil goes through so when you change the oil all the gunk comes with the oil.
brownish/reddish color and clay like matter. a recently rebuilt engine should not have gunk unless all they did was just the seals and heads and some people call that a rebuilt engine. i would run that MMO one more time and chane the oil and filter after a couple of days. just to make sure. Monty

 

Thanks, Monty.

I know the ticking is pretty common, but this one only ticks when the oil pressure crashes. I used the light weight oil so there would be a better chance it can pass through the pump screen and penetrate through the cavities. I'm not too concerned with the ticking - it's the oil pressure crash that has me throwing fits. Do you think there is a realistic chance of getting all the crap cleaned out without pulling the engine? Is there a way to "back flush" the oil so whatever is caught in the screen can be dumped back into the oil pan? I've never taken one of these things apart, so I don't really know what it all looks like inside. I have a couple of 2.9's available to me that I'm considering "experimenting" with just to learn more. It's not a daily driver, yet, so I have time to nurse it to health.

Thx.

 

A reverse flush might be worth a try. See this link and click on "engine oil flush" www.autoprofit.com

I think some quicky lube places do this.

 

Thanks 87X.

The local DODGE dealership can do this for me, but it's gonna be $150-ouch! I paid $150 for the BII, and the guy threw in the "rebuilt" engine and a good 5 spd manual tranny. But it's about par - I paid a guy $200 for the engine swap, another guy $80 to change the $140 fuel pump. Paid $160 for exhaust repairs, and $80 for the first time the sludge had to be cleaned out. Oh, well, still a good lookin' BII and, if this works, a good runnin' vehicle for under $1000.

Anyone ever have this flush done? It sounds like the magic bullet to me. I'm leaning towards going for it.

 

Yeah a sweet running little B-2 for under a 1000 bucks is a real bargain.

Best bet before having it flushed would be to remove the valve covers & clean up the heads.

It's a shame that the previous owner/moron let it get so sludged.

Good luck with it. I hope the flush does the job.

 

Well, I went yesterday and changed the oil again to try to the the BII home, but with new oil the oil pressure would never register on the gauge. The lifters also tapped like crazy. I guess the clog is so bad now that I have to drop the pan to clear it by hand.

Bad thing, though is that in the old oil (about 6 miles old) there was a substantial amount of green substance - I believe it was antifreeze. I had put some MMO in there, but it was red. I'm about 99.9% sure it's antifreeze. Is there any way that antifreeze could get into the oil other than due to a blown head gasket or cracked head? I've pretty much resigned myself to doing a rebuild. I have another 1986 2.9 and a 1989 2.9 to work with. I believe the 1989 needs rings, but it also had a loud tap but it ran. I don't know the condition of the 1986. The one I'm dealing with now is older because it didn't have an oil level sensor in the oil pan. I've read that the 1989 model came with beefier heads - are they my best bet to begin with?

I plan to gather both engines and start to tear into them this spring. Any advice would be helpful. I want to know exactly what is in this thing when it is done. I think I will also put a higher quality oil pump in it.

Thanks.

 

I Hope You Don't Have The Same Problem I Had With My B2 2.9.i Once Posted An Article In Here Called The Grim Reaper Of Motors(posted Under My Alias Bob Swenney)i Haven't Been Here In Awhile But I Think You Can Look It Up.if Not Post Again And I'll Tell You My Horror Story.

 

please tell us your story h.b... maybe we can all learn a leson from your case.