Hi!

I recently remodeled our kitchen and replaced our 6" deep single well sink with a 9" deep double sink. I relocated our old disposal in one of the two wells and re-plumbed back to the old drain line.

Because of the new depth and a bit of a time crunch when I was getting it all together (I didn't have time to map it all out perfectly), the trap is now quite a bit lower than before and the drain line rises on a 45 deg. angle from the trap about 3-4 inches before it hits the pipe exiting the wall.

We've been having a recurring problem with stoppages starting about 4 weeks after I got it in. All the detrius from the disposal collects in the trap and gets so stuck that I can't plunge it through, but have to disconnect the trap and bang/shake/flush the mess on through. I've snaked the line beyond the wall about 10' and it all seems clear. I guess I've just created a backup that stalls out the debris so it can't exit the trap.

My next plan is to cut part of the sheetrock away and re-plumb the whole arrangement so that the line coming off the trap can descend at 1/4" per foot or so, instead of climbing.

Am I troubleshooting this right? I'm getting tired of the dissassembly routine.

Thanks!

-Sam

P.S. - Straw that broke the camel's back: I had to do it this morning as the midwife was on her way here 'cause my wife went into labor... Not the way to start this day!

 

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I think you're on the right track as far as correcting the problem. Good drainage is all about letting gravity work with you. While you could probably get clean water to flow uphill back to the wall as long as the exit was lower than the sink drain, it's a stretch to get debri to flow uphill without ultimately settling in the trap. If you're using the standard plastic "P" trap assembly back to the wall, the angle is pretty well set by the fittings. The only adjustment for height would be the tailpiece coming down from the drain or disposal. That pretty much dictates a downhill run through the trap and back to the wall. If you're going to try to lower your wall exit point on the drain line, be aware that it may be continued on vertically upward as a vent pipe.

 

Thanks! I understand about the vent. I bought some couplers and I'm hoping to just be able to relocate the wye (or elbow) down the pipe a bit.

Wish me luck!

-Sam

P.S. - Still in labor...baby almost here!

 

As long as you're cutting in at the wall, you might consider glueing in two drain entrance fittings now that you have two different sink basins. That way, if one side clogs, you still have a working side. I did the opposite when I remodelled my kitchen, I went from a double sink to a single sink so I eliminated one drain back to the wall. Either way, it sounds like you're on the right track!! Good luck with the project and the new baby!!!!!!!

 

Hey, GREAT idea! I'll definately do that!

-Sam

P.S. - Holding m' boy as I type!

 

into the wall you must go, bring the drain back from the trap almost straight and use a what is called a t-y at the stack. the t-y looks like a t but has a down ward angle built into it all most like a y fitting with a straight conect on it. just make sure the slope of the y is down hill not up. good luck with the baby

 

I agree you will be doing that right too. The only thing I might do different in that short of a run is give it about a 1/2" of fall per foot of pipe. Really helps drain better. Just my opinion.

 

Congrats dad!

 

I would only run the one line and single trap. I agree the main stack tee needs to be lowered but you only need 1/4 in per foot fall and thats a lot 1/8 is acceptable as long as it breaks the level you are good. Use a Fernco in your repair will make any future work much easier to do.
Glenn

 

Hey!

Thanks for all the suggestions, I have to tear into it to figure out the best solution (single vs. double traps, move up/move down, etc.) I'll post whenever I get it done.

Baby is doing great, thanks for the congrats! :-)

-Sam