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Installing Fireplace into shed

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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 04:32 PM
  #1  
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Installing Fireplace into shed

I was hoping someone could give me some insight into a little project I want to do this weekend. I have an old fireplace from a hunting camp that I want to install in my shed. The shed is about 2 stories high so I will be putting the chimney through the SIDE of the wall then have it 90 straight up. Any thoughts/comments/ideas on the best way to go about this? The floor of the shed is poured concrete, and the walls are stucco on wood? drywall? not sure, I didnt build the shed myself. The shed is about the size of a two car garage with a half floor on the second tier. I was told to keep the stove atleast 3 feet away from the wall and use special insulation on the wall around the stove to reflect heat away from the walls. Any idea what thats called? Any opinions are greatly accepted! Thanks.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2008 | 05:04 PM
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Run Duraplus stove pipe to a factory Duraplus thimble installed in the wall, run triple ss up the outside. All pipe 2100 HT rated. You can put in a double brick wall behind the stove where the thimble will sit between studs if it makes you feel better abut the walls.

What will usually work well at 30-36" is a stand off steel shield on the stove of at least 1" air gap and the same type of shield 2" air gap on the wall behind the stove. The shield on the wall should be attached to the wall with metal legs and have an air gap at the bottom.

Northern Tools sells these type of things too.

A useful site:


Hearth.com - Information on Gas Fireplaces, Wood Stoves, Gas Logs, Pellet Stoves, Fireplaces, Chimneys and Hearth Products
 
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 12:13 AM
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When we installed a wood stove in our garage in PA saskatchewan, we called the insurance place, and somewhere else (cant recall right now) to get the code for it.

We had to have the stove so and so high off of the floor (a foot maybe?) and so and so far from the wall (It wasnt 3 feet at all, maybe 10-14 inches)

They said we could put tin up 1 inch away from the wall, so we screwed some screws in behind the tin so they stuck out an inch, then laid the tin up against the wall, then screwed the tin on.

When we went through the roof we just went straight up, and had to have the insulation so and so far away from the chimney, and the proper adapter when going through the roof, with a double wall chimney.

It was a few years ago, and I forget the exact dimensions, but you should be able to figure it out pretty easy with a few phone calls.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 10:20 AM
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If you can find a Manufactures plate somewhere on the unit it will give the the Manufacturer Specs on the the minimum clearances of the unit, usually around a Min of 18", but check building codes, since they superceed manufactures specs.

Single wall pipe is a MIN of 18" clearance, double walled Duravent is 2" clearance and termination on the roof uses the "10 and 2 " rule must be 2'ft higher than any thing within 10'ft radius of flue termination for proper draft.

When you buy your venting, if you go with double wall, it will have all the specs you need for installation....but still reference the building code in the area.

call a HVAC company in your area, or the building department for your local codes, some venting in some areas use a "3'ft and 10'ft depending on the area's codes. But do it right if your gonna do it.

That dura vent ain't cheap stuff and here a 36" peice of double wall stainless HT2100 "A- vent" is about $ 80.00 !
 
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 11:33 AM
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The duravent isn't cheap by any means, I did a lot of research before investing in it, but, it sure is cheaper then burning down your garage/house
 
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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Well I've seen a few, who take their chances using "B" vent from unit to termination, and have actually seen a guy using 6" perimeter pipe.. lol..risky business if you ask me. Myself in my home shop, I run stove pipe off the unit to the adapter, then run Duravent through the ceiling space and out the roof.

Besides being expensive and heavy, it's a whole safer using Duravent.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by CretePumper
Single wall pipe is a MIN of 18" clearance, double walled Duravent is 2" clearance and termination on the roof uses the "10 and 2 " rule must be 2'ft higher than any thing within 10'ft radius of flue termination for proper draft.
Hmm, I never even thought about insurance/building regs. Im trying to keep it as tucked into the corner as I can (so I can still fit a car/my motorcycle/quad/soon snowmobile) and other toys i've collected. In your post do you mean my chimney (chimney=flue?) has to be 2' higher than anything else in a 10ft radius? So my flue has to be higher than the top of my shed? I cant just come out the side of my shed and go straight up foot or so?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 01:17 PM
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The stuff you want on the wall is called duroc cement board. you can put a heat shield in front of it if you want but that stuff is a UL-listed wall shield/floor protector around fireplaces.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 01:22 PM
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OK, call me silly if this is wrong thinking. You're in a building with GASOLINE fueled vehicles, and you are going to have a FIRE place....

I know this isn't 100% incompatible, as we use gas-fired water heaters, raised 18" in garages here. However, if there are gas cans for the quad and snowmobile....
 
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 01:25 PM
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These guys have given you some great advice about installation. Years ago I did insurance inspections for Equifax. I'll never forget getting sent to check a woodstove installation in an insured's home. He had taken the glass out of the top of a double hung window, put a piece of 1/2" plywood in the area, and put a tin stovepipe collar in the center and ran the stovepipe thru it. No safety precautions whatsoever! When I checked it the wood was all scortched, and it was about 90 degrees in the room! I told him it was unsafe, but he refused to make any modifications. After my report the insurance company dropped him. Wonder why?....................................
 
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Old Nov 29, 2008 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyCanadianGuy
I cant just come out the side of my shed and go straight up foot or so?
Well you could, but not a good idea, I wouldn't recommend it personally. Perhaps this could offer some more info:

:http://www.duravent.com/docs/instruct/L150%20Dec05.pdf
 
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