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Regaurding the 351C, what was the difference bewteen the Boss, HO, and ordinary 2V heads. What would be the best choice for a street truck that doesn't see any towing?
The differance between Boss (64/67 cc) quenched and HO (74/77 cc) open, is the combusting chamber size. The 2V heads are open chamber (77/80 cc) with smaller valves and ports. For a street truck the 2V's would be fine. Boss heads are hard to find and exspensive for a street truck. 2V heads are plentiful and with a little cleaning up will work just fine for the street. The HO heads already have screw in studs, so you wouldn't have to convert them. Don't forget there are Aussie 302C heads.
The chamber in the head were the valves are located are differant sizes. Closed chamber is small, high compression, exspensive gas, more power.
Open chambers are large, lower compression, regular gas.
4V heads have large valves and ports.
2V heads have smaller valves and ports.
Each head has it's best application. Street truck; low compression, regular gas, mild cam, 2 or 4 barrel carb, stock manifolds- 2V open chamber heads.
Race truck; high compression, premium fuel or better, wild cam, headers, 4V closed chamber heads. There is so much more information about these heads, that it's difficult to explain here. Do a google search for 351C and look at flow numbers and specs.
YO,YO,YO dudes never fear the aftermarket is here. If you gotta have em then Edelbrock has em> they have just introduced a new Air-gap intake and head combination at SEMA. The flow figures look great for the street. gregm
Those 32V heads from Aroaengineering would look perfect in my truck . Actually all of those heads look like winners, but $2000, Come on I still have the rest of the engine to build, not to mention the truck
getting back to your original post, are we talking about a "street driven" truck or a "street performance" truck? either way the best choice of economically feasible heads would be the 2V open chamber cleveland heads, this includes pre 75 351m/400's too. have you made any solid decisions on what block/stroke, trans/bellpattern you are planning on using? BTW be aware that the original and many "replacement" valves are of 2 piece construction and tend to have failures, the valve head separates from the stem and takes out your engine. it happened to me.
The truck for this project is a '77 F-150 4x4 powered by the trusty ol' 300 six cylinder. I haven't decided if I'm going to keep this motor and warm it over or ditch it for a V8. If I ditch I can purchase a 351C in running condition for $75 out of a '71 or '72 Torino. The engine is a 2V. I'm trying to map out options for both engines so when the time comes I know what will work for either.
The truck doesn't see much offroading , and I don't tow with it. So why do I have a 4x4? I live in the mountains of PA and winter traveling can be fun at times. I'm looking for 300hp and 350 lb.ft. Oh, and I would like at least 275 lb coming in at or around 3000rpm .
Depends where you want to make that power. The stock 2V can flow well and even better with some port and polish, aftermarket valves, ect. The stock 4V
flows extremely well at high rpms. In the 70's the 4V's were outlawed on the racing circuit, because the little boys wearing bowties were crying that their
heads couldn't handle the 7000 rpm flow charcteristics needed to sustain the
engine. Well boo-hoo, if you're going to race, run engine made for it, not one
for an old ladies grocery getter, not that 427 ZL1 was anything to laugh at.
Back to your ?, i'm not sure because I haven'y seen edelblah's heads yet.