educate me on differentials and upgrading..
#1
educate me on differentials and upgrading..
truck is a 94 F150 302 2wd 123,000 miles.
axle code is 18...unknown what the ratio is, but it is an open differential.
over the last 2 months, i got stuck twice. once on some snow on a slight incline, and once in the mud. (off-roading, sorta--avoided rear-ending someone, and went off the freeway onto/into the median, and about 3 inches of mud...no can move when wheels just spin--they closed the freeway for me for the tow truck to do its thing)
Is an upgrade to a limited slip do-able? I'm guessing yes.. Is it do-able by your average at-home mechanic? has anyone done this?
Any ideas of trucks to look at as a donor vehicle? ie either axle codes or ?
I'm at the research phase of this--seeing if this is something i may want to do.
Any other options?
Thanks for your time
Brian in NC
'94 F150, no mods
axle code is 18...unknown what the ratio is, but it is an open differential.
over the last 2 months, i got stuck twice. once on some snow on a slight incline, and once in the mud. (off-roading, sorta--avoided rear-ending someone, and went off the freeway onto/into the median, and about 3 inches of mud...no can move when wheels just spin--they closed the freeway for me for the tow truck to do its thing)
Is an upgrade to a limited slip do-able? I'm guessing yes.. Is it do-able by your average at-home mechanic? has anyone done this?
Any ideas of trucks to look at as a donor vehicle? ie either axle codes or ?
I'm at the research phase of this--seeing if this is something i may want to do.
Any other options?
Thanks for your time
Brian in NC
'94 F150, no mods
#2
Yes, a limited slip diff can be put in that axle. The axle is a Ford 8.8".
All limited slip diffs come in their own carrier (though there are a couple of exceptions, but they are lockers, not limited slips), so a re-setup of the ring and pinion gears is necessary. This isn't something an average joe usually attempts, but some here have done it sucessfully. I just took mine to the pros .
You may want to read up on all the different kinds of limited slip differentials available for your axle. I suggest starting with one of the following informative websites on anything axle related and go from there.
www.reiderracing.com
www.ring-pinion.com
All limited slip diffs come in their own carrier (though there are a couple of exceptions, but they are lockers, not limited slips), so a re-setup of the ring and pinion gears is necessary. This isn't something an average joe usually attempts, but some here have done it sucessfully. I just took mine to the pros .
You may want to read up on all the different kinds of limited slip differentials available for your axle. I suggest starting with one of the following informative websites on anything axle related and go from there.
www.reiderracing.com
www.ring-pinion.com
#3
Although not a cheap alternative, I put a powertrax no slip in mine. Take out the spider gears and put their guts in its place.I have new tires on my truck and have yet to put it in 4 wheel drive. It cost about $425.00. It may not be any worse than buying a limited slip and having someone reset your backlash. Plus it will never wear out.
#4
you can buy a OEM LS from broncograveyard for pretty cheap... I believ that axel code is 308 gears but im not sure....thats what would have been in ur truck origionally had it been LS from the factory.. As far as home installation i dunno. You can also buy a LS for the front axel which is a dana 44 for about 200 bux...i think the rear one is like 350...
#5
The Eaton units are very strong...probably the strongest clutch type LSD that I've seen for an 8.8. I run an Auburn HD in my supercharged 94 Lightning. It's been in there for 5 years now and no problems, on the street or at the track with slicks. If it ever brakes, then I'll get an Eaton.
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#8
As a home mechanic your best bet would be to replace the entire diff, housing, axles, carrier etc as a complete unit, with a limited slip version. You only have to deal with 1 brake line, two e-brake cables, 2 shocks, a u-joint, 4 u-bolts and lots of liquid wrench and pipe extensions. It should be plentiful at your local wrecker and probably cheaper and definitely easier than swapping in a new carrier and re-shimming your gearset. Also, if your truck is 2WD going up or down with your gear ratio (to another factory ratio) will not be an issue other than your own preference.
007BRONCO
007BRONCO
Last edited by 007bronco; 02-10-2005 at 07:22 PM.
#9