Oxygen Sensor stuck and stripped
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Oxygen Sensor stuck and stripped
Hey guys, got a major pain/problem with my 94 Explorer. My Oxygen sensor on the passenger side (in the manifold) will not come out. Anyone that's worked on this before knows what a royal pain this sensor is...its in the absolute worst spot and requires feats of flexibility just to even get a wrench on it. I've tried penetrating oil, heat, cold, etc. but it won't budge...part of the problem is getting a good wrench on it since it is partially stripped and impossible to get at.
Anyone have any similar experiences, and have any advice? Can it be drilled out? I'm assuming my only option is to replace the entire manifold (no thanks!)
Anyone have any similar experiences, and have any advice? Can it be drilled out? I'm assuming my only option is to replace the entire manifold (no thanks!)
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 3
From: Friendswood, Texas
If you have access to a torch, Try bending a wrench into some configuration that may work better. Occasionally, I've had to cut wrenches for a particluar job. May just have to get creative. I do not remeber them being too bad on my 96 Expl. Sport and I was fortunate in that nobady had attempted to remove them previously so they were not stripped. But I did not do the one on the manifold. I had two that I replaced, one on each exhaust pipe coming out of the manifolds.
You may be able to remove the inner fender well (plastic piece) for better access. I had to do this on my daughter's ranger to get at some of the transmission to block bolts and it made a big difference. The inner fender well was not difficult to rremove on the Ranger (97).
You may be able to remove the inner fender well (plastic piece) for better access. I had to do this on my daughter's ranger to get at some of the transmission to block bolts and it made a big difference. The inner fender well was not difficult to rremove on the Ranger (97).
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Moreno Valley, CA
from personal experiancei found that it was easier to remove it after the engine has been running for a while and the manifold is good and hot. it should expand and loosen its grip, the downside is that you will almost definitly burn yourself in the process especially if its in a hard to get to spot. i wouldnt try drilling it out. texan2004 is right about being creative. and the more leverage you can get on it the better. you can also try to file it down to the next size if the corners get too rounded.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
It's really stuck in there...I've tried heating heating the engine and had no luck...even with almost a full can of penetrating oil set on there. Is it a possibility that the sensor got welded to the pipe? Next time I get it on the lift I'll see about getting at it from a better angle, but I really don't think there's any easy way about it...the only way I can even get a wrench on it was using a crows foot.
New User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
I had a similar problem on my F-150 but the sensor was in a more accessible location. I had to take a torch to get the area red hot before I could budge it.
Be sure to use some anti seize on the threads of the new one before putting it in.
Be sure to use some anti seize on the threads of the new one before putting it in.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Moreno Valley, CA
Trending Topics
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 3
From: Friendswood, Texas
I understand if this has gotten personal between you and the vehicle and you are determined to be the one who gts it off but, ... you may want to consider taking it to a local muffler shop. Chances are pretty good that they have done one of these before. They will have a lot of experience in getting tough bolts out and they are usually not all that expensive.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
I had trouble getting the same O2 sensor out and used a brake fitting wrench to do it. It must be done through the inner fender well to get any leverage on it at all. The brake wrench covers half of two more sides and is less likely to slip when all you can get out of it is 45 degrees of rotation or so.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 3
From: Friendswood, Texas
I think that proper access is the key. If removing the inner fender well makes for better access, get it out of the way. It is easy to remove. Tubing wrench (brake fitting wrench) is a good idea if you can get it on there.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 165
Likes: 0
From: USA
I have been there. The only way to get it was to remove the inner fender liner. I also had to heat it with map gas torch. The map gas set up I have had a 3-4 foot tube from the tank to teh torch. It was hot enough to get the metal around the sensor red hot (I have since got an full size set of torches).
Another thing to note is to unplug the wire to the O2 sensor while heating things if you catch the wire on fire it will not damage the rest of the harness. It also goes with out saying make sure you have a fire extinguisher and some water in a spray bottle around while using the torch.
I thought that the O2 was a pain until I had to replace the tube running from the manifold to the EGR. This made the O2 replacement seem like a piece of cake.
Good luck!!!!
Respectfully
Dean
Another thing to note is to unplug the wire to the O2 sensor while heating things if you catch the wire on fire it will not damage the rest of the harness. It also goes with out saying make sure you have a fire extinguisher and some water in a spray bottle around while using the torch.
I thought that the O2 was a pain until I had to replace the tube running from the manifold to the EGR. This made the O2 replacement seem like a piece of cake.
Good luck!!!!
Respectfully
Dean
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
I just bought a 94 Exp and was beginning to tear it down. My 94 has what looks to be an old O2 sensor in the drivers side manifold. It also has one down on the "Y" pipe by the cat.
Can you confirm yours is on the passenger side?
Also...FYI
I removed both manifolds with a 10mm wrench (at the head) and 15mm at the pipe (pipe bolts/studs were worse). I needed lots of penetrating oil and heat but not as hard to get off as I thought. I still can't get what's left of the O2 sensor out so I will take it in to the pro's or check pricing at the wrecker.
I don't know how many guys would recommend removing the manifolds but it worked for me. As mentioned wheel and skirt need to be removed.
Can you confirm yours is on the passenger side?
Also...FYI
I removed both manifolds with a 10mm wrench (at the head) and 15mm at the pipe (pipe bolts/studs were worse). I needed lots of penetrating oil and heat but not as hard to get off as I thought. I still can't get what's left of the O2 sensor out so I will take it in to the pro's or check pricing at the wrecker.
I don't know how many guys would recommend removing the manifolds but it worked for me. As mentioned wheel and skirt need to be removed.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 394
Likes: 0
From: North East
their was another thead about changing it and i wanted to see if i could brake mine loose had a 22 mill pipe wrench on it could not even budge it and i had it hot to from the engine does anyone know how much it costs to bring it to a muffiler shop and have them heat it up and brake it loose for me???
New User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
I assume you want to replace it?! If so, go through the finder well, cut the wire and put a wrench on it...22 mm if I remeber right. You might try and tighten it first. This may allow enough of a turn to break it free. You probably have it almost stripped trying to get it out and you'll get a better grip when you tighten it, maybe enough to break it free and then it will remove alot easier. Some one mentioned a flare tube wrench which is a little better than a crows foot but might be harder to find one. Hope the the tib-bits help...Good Luck....been there..done that!!