Radiator Question
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Fairbanks, AK
Radiator Question
I have a 95 F250 with a 351. Here in Alaska we are obviously subject to a lot of subzero weather, and it seems like every time it gets colder than 20 or 30 below zero my radiator springs a leak. I don't know a whole lot about radiators, but if I had to guess I would say the metal in the radiator contracts overnight when it gets cold and then expands when the truck is started and the engine heats up, and over time this causes leaks. Since my truck has 181,000 miles on it and still has the original radiator, would it be worth it to just buy a new radiator instead of coughing up $150 to fix the current one during every cold snap?
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Alaska
I priced out a radiator for my f-150 last year in Juneau, I recall it running around $190. You might want to see what Schucks could get it for. A new radiator would be my choice. I am guessing that you have the radiator type that has seals on the side, I was told these are prone to leaking. The seals are in between the main radiator and the sides, they are crimped together. I wonder if they make a repair kit for these, and how hard it would be. You may want to weigh your options before getting the radiator fixed or replaced. Have you checked the hose clamps?
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 44
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From: Fairbanks, AK
I checked the clamps and they seem to be fine. Each time it leaks the antifreeze pools up on that lip underneath the fan. I am up in Fairbanks so it really worries me when it starts leaking at 50 below, like it is today. I am starting to think a new radiator might be the most long term cost effective way to go.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Ocean Park WA
Without a pressure tester you can not see the leaks normally. If it keeps leaking then it's time to change and with the miles it has I wouldn't complain to much. The tanks are plastic and the cores are aluminium. To reseal one you have to uncrimp the ends put in new seals and recrimp it with the right tool. Every radiator shop I've ever talked to has told me they have to recore them because ears start to crack when you uncrimp them and they will ont guaranty it otherwise. I checked on recoring for my Bronco II when I had it and it was actually cheaper to buy new then recore.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
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Anyone know if redbeast can get a radiator with brass tanks to go in there? I did this once on an old Volvo I owned. My plastic tank cracked and a guy at the radiator shop told me that the radiators in the older Volvos had brass tanks and were the exact same size and mounted the same as the newer plastic ones. So I bought a brass one from a junkyard and had it boiled and resoldered at the radiator shop and I installed it. Got rid of the plastic that way.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Alaska
With it pooling at the bottom I would try checking the hose clamps first. If you had a pressure tester as mentioned by Eric C., you would be able to get a better idea on the location of the leak. If it is the radiator I would replace it, it sounds more cost efective and long term. Good Luck.
New User
Joined: Feb 2005
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hey 92, i got an 88 150 had similar leak between core and side resevoirs. it was about the same price to recore an aluminum rad with plastic tanks compared to brand new. i went with spanky new one. consider yourself lucky, here in canada my rad with the heavy duty core is a screamin' deal at aroun $450
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Elder User
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From: Ocean Park WA
Unfortunately the new ones coming out are pretty much all plastic tanks. Some of the speed shops though might have the all aluminimum ones available or special order but they would be pricey. You have to keep a closer eye on your coolant quality as I've seen alot of problems with the trash in the water causing the coolant to change and cause some real ugly deposits and corrosion. We've had to change from using concentrate and tap water to premix on the big ugly green machines because of pitting on the liners from this. Coolant should be tested yearly for alkalinity and concentration. Nice thing for me is the company bought me the tools so I can do it right. Other wise find a shop that can recycle it in thier machine or you can change it yourself. Just dispose of it safely.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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If I can't solder and flush a radiator myself to fix it I buy a new one. I consider it cheap insurance. My approach is based on the fact that I tend to keep a vehicle for a long time. Shipping to AK will likely be a killer.