I just put on a AEM intake and I haven't really felt a seat difference. I do know that my mpg on the over head was always at 13.8-14.2 and now it goes from 15.8-16.1. I know that I had a dirty filter before also. Im sure a new filter would have helped but I was waiting for the intake kit

 

I shouldn't even respond but I have to give my .02 I remember that linked thread and this one is turning into the same thing, I didnt respond on the last one, this one I will.

A Napa 6637 filter is $30 bucks, hardly a watse of money, a trip to a movie cost that much for a family and that is over in two hours, and you might laugh once, with an aftermarket, the turbo sound will make you smile FOR WEEKS!!!!

Cleaner air is denser air, has more potential to make power. try telling anyone who knows there HP stuff that dirty, less filtered air is just as good as clean, well filtered air. But a window screen over your turbo inlet will work too, or leave it off, most insects will burn.

Kind of a contradictory sentence isn't it??? have you ever tried a napa 6637 filter??? I tried the stock box, then I tried the 6637 filter cuz i had an OPEN MIND!!!! don't knock it till you have tried it. 8,000 miles on the filter, still white, no dusting, have hit a few big holes, been bounced to h*ll, still attached, still in one piece.

So try one of these aftermaket or homemade ones and see for yourself. in my case the stock one sucked I noticed a difference in the acceleration, slightly quicker and the turbo realy sings with the 6637. So there you have it.


Diesel Rod

 

Amen, preach it brother!!

 

Yes, you've made that point painfully obvious.

 

What I have noticed with the NAPA filter set up,is lower EGT which is good for me.I'm glad I went to the Tymar type intake,just need to figure out my CCV.Any suggestions is appreciated.I went with a 4" pipe to replace the CCV adapter thing is all I know to call it.This baby breathes good now.

 

Got my Napa filter installed today. Had some money to "waste" plus got a pretty good deal on the filter. Noticed a little more get up and go. And it sounds pretty tough too.

 

I guess one guys test on aftermarket intakes disproves millions of dollars in research and development that have been done since the internal combustion engine was invented. So this theory doesn't hold up: get more air, then add more fuel, give it a place to exhaust, and BINGO, more power? Increased airflow efficiency in and out doesn't help? I guess I've been mislead by every knowledgeable person I have ever come into contact with on this subject and my own experience to boot. I feel like such a fool... I think it's time to put this thread out to pasture. You can't teach an old dog new tricks, or old tricks for that matter. Good luck everyone on whatever you do to modify your trucks. If it works for you, I don't think it's a waste of money. That's all I have left to say on this thread, so I will unsubscribe.

Max

 

I agree with the previous poster's message about Ford research being better and more complete than a seat-of-the-pants aftermarket research. I would never had done this modification if the clamps on my airbox were not broken off. I rigged around the problem for several years. I figured the 6637 was the easiest and best way to fix it once and forever. With the sort of driving we do, this air filter should go two years between changes so that is another benefit.

It 6637 mod is easy. I never saw a description on how to do it so I just figured it out myself. Here's the method I would use if I did it again:

(right side, looking at the front of the vehicle)

- Remove battery cables and battery

- Unclip air filter, remove air filter lid by undoing the hose clamp on the near side of the bracket mounted to the engine. Pull the entire assembly off and put it aside.

- Remove air temperature sensor on the side of the air filter box. Tie-wrap it to that handy bracket near the brake master cylinder.

- Remove 2 bolts that were under the battery and 2 bolts that were to the side of the battery. You might also have to remove two very small bolts that were under the air filter.

- Pull complete battery box/air thing out. Using a Sawzall or hack saw, cut the part of the box off that was around the air filter, leaving as complete of a battery box as you can. Hack away!

- Reinstall battery box.

- Attention moves to air filter - Remove air filter lid. Remove the big hose clamp from the hose on the air filter end of the tube. Check the inside of 6637 filter to make sure you haven't dropped a cigarette butt in there.

- The 6637 filter is about 1/4" greater in diameter than the diameter of the rubber tube. It takes some elbow grease but you can get the rubber tube to expand enough to slide it over the end of the filter. It is a very tight fit. I might use some soap on it next time.

- The original hose clamp Will Work! You need to cut off one of the nubs on the outside of the rubber tube so it will fit. You'll only get about 3 or 4 turns on the screw. A slightly longer hose clamp might be better. Crank it down tight.

- Put rubber tube back on the engine-mounted connection.

- Reinstall battery, connect cables. Done!

My filter points slightly down. The steel mesh on the outside does not touch anything valuable so I'm just going to leave it like that. I could do this whole job in less than 30 minutes now that I've done it once. Total cost was about $42 including shipping from Napa. It should easily outlast 3 OEM filters so I figure it pays for itself.

 

I just recently put the factory air box back on and I can tell you i lost 4lbs of boost, EGT's are up 100-150* and nowhere near the throttle response i had before either. I think 4lbs of boost is significant..The kwik filter made a heck of a difference in performance of my truck. Now i know all trucks are different, but even the slightest performance gain makes it worthy of the expense. My 02 has a decent airbox. dosent leak and i did the zoodad mod,not sure if it made any difference though and it is still quite obviously very restrictive, especially compared to the napa 6637 open filter..
Even if the open style filter made no performance gain (but it did) the better filtration would be good enough reason to lose the stock box I would think..

 

Ive been told that K&N filters allow bigger chunks of dirt to pass through hence more air flow. Ive used one on a 99 V-10 for 137k miles now and it is still very strong. Its a welding rig so its off road alot. But on a turbo I think its more about surface area than bigger pores in the element. Dale at Tymar has impressed the heck out of me on his knowlegde on this subject. I was worried about an open element but with the amount of surface area it has it should last awhile unless your in the deep dust. Cooler air is always better for performance but less restriction is just as good. As with any upgrades they work better all together than just by themselves. Just a welders point of view, Jamie

 

The warmer air is less dense so you get less of it. The negative aspect of getting warmer air is far outweighed by the increased airflow. I have yet to see anyone post that they have regrets about going to an aftermarket intake regardless of which one they use.
I did not stay at a Holiday Inn but I have read many many posts that address this issue. These are real world results posted by my fellow Ford truckers like you. Or you. Or you.

 

Well now I am curious.... what made you decide to put the smaller filter back in? Quieter operation?

 

I'll jump in this fire now.....I run the Ford AIS on both of my trucks and have piece of mine knowing it's doing a good job of filtering and flows enought air to provide all the power I need. I run a Super Chip on the 70 horsepower setting and couldn't be happer .