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Freeze plugs..

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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 08:56 PM
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Freeze plugs..

Does anyone know a way to pull out and replace the freeze plugs in a 360 without having to pull the engine? It should only take about a day to pull the engine and get it back in but im wondering if there is an easier way of doing it.I know that I will have to pull the transmission.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 10:17 PM
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I had some freeze plugs that were rusted out and leaking and replacing them was not that big a deal. You have to remove anything that is in the way...if it is behind an engine mount then you will have to jack up the engine and remove the mount. (Be sure to support the engine with some wooden blocks). The bottom line is you have to have a clear area to work.

I then drilled a hole in the freeze plug, screwed in a sheet metal screw, and pulled the plug with a claw hammer. Putting in the new plug is just a case of cleaning up the hole real good with some laquer thinner, coating the new plug with silicone then knocking it in with a hammer and socket.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 11:56 AM
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the new freeze plug should go in metal to metal. no coatings of any kind. some use the rubber ones that you tighten with a bolt in it but that should not be relyed on as a permenant fix.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 09:18 PM
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Steve Christ in his book HOW TO REBUILD YOUR BIG BLOCK FORD says "Apply silicone sealer to outer edge of core plug and drive into place". Why would you no?
 
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Old Jan 30, 2005 | 11:16 PM
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Ford says no on the sealant, and I trust them a lot more since they built it in the first place. Use brass plugs, and you won't ever have a prob.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 01:52 AM
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I used sealant on mine like the How to Rebuild Ford Small Blocks engine said, and it has been 13 years with no leak.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 07:29 AM
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Why go to all the work of taking parts off to get at the thing, taking out the old one, which can be difficult, and then take chance on getting a leak on the final step. Makes no sense to me.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 07:33 AM
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if its designed to go in dry it should be installed dry. a boss 429 engine is designed to have the head installed without a headgasket. would you install one anyway?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 10:55 AM
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No but I would install a freeze plug with silicone so I'm sure it won't leak.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 12:02 PM
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Yeah, I don't know what would be the problem with putting some silicone on that outer edge. It's no different than putting it on a thermostat gasket.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 07:08 PM
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Thanks for the help, im going to put them in this weekend i havent decided if I will put the silicone on them or not, but I dont see what it will hurt if I do.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 09:15 PM
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a brass freeze plug is soft metal and when it gets hot will expand and take on the form of the opening, including any deformities, totally sealing. the origonal plugs are stamped steel and lasted how many years, 15 , 20 , 30? brass is a factory recommended replacement because of its superior sealing ability. if you put silicon on it you are not allowing the plug to seat in the block. yes it may work for a long time but will it last the 30 years the factory ones lasted. as for the thermostat housing using silicon, how many bolts hold down a freeze plug? does the book explain why the factory method is incorrect? im not trying to be a smart A , but just because its in print doesn't mean it's right.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 02:29 AM
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Use Silicone !!!!!!!!!! A Head without a head gasket.hah !!!!
 

Last edited by 1968_onehun; Feb 1, 2005 at 02:32 AM.
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 10:16 AM
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I'm guessing that because it's in print doesn't mean it's wrong either. I put one in a 57 Chevy 25 years ago and it is still holding. I'm gonna guess that either way works. And I can't imagine that a paper thin coating of silicone is gonna keep a plug from sealing.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 07:19 PM
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Hmmmmmmmmmmm
 
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