All,

I have just purchased a locking unit for my 2000 4X4 F150 Lariat. A mechanic neglected to put friction modifier in along with the grease and wasted it.

I need to put this in or have it done for me. Is this a hard job? Are there any tips or hints from anyone out there who knows a thing about this would be really appreciated!

Also, I suspect that I will have someone else do this once I hear about what is involved. Does anyone have an idea what a fair price or amount of time to install this piece would be?

Thanks in advance for any and all input!

-Alan

 

alan
how about a little more information,did he fail to put in just the additive or both additive and gear oil. if its both you may possible have more damage then you think. please give us more information.

 

capt. charlie,

thanks so much for your response!

it was definitely just the additive. synth oil was used. not sure of the weight but i think the weight was all right. would i be correct in assuming that any synth lube, as long as it was some type of gear oil weight, say85+, would keep any damage from occurring to other components? i'm not sure what other components are in there besides the r&p, bearings, and such.

the vehicle was run for a few hundred miles with only oil. one container of frict. mod. was then added by the igits. the slipping and chattering got better but stabilized and seems to have remained somewhat constant since then in spite of totally draing the unit and replacing with all of the right stuff (including two containers of frict. mod.)

what other damage are you thinking is possible in this case? the truck runs and drives down the road just fine. from a dead stop under load the connection to the rear wheels feels squishy. sharply around corners at low speed generally, i get a lot of chattering and slippage. the feel is similar to pavement driving in 4 wheel drive around a turn but not exactly the same.

does this link below work? i'm not sure if this link to a locking unit on ebay will come through or not, (it didn't) but are there clutches in a unit like this? (i'll describe it as a cylindrical piece 6-8" in dia tapered to bearings at either end with a teethed, disc shaped mounting plate toward the end with the larger bearing and an rectangular opening in which all i can see is gear teeth and a shaft)

i see no clutch plates which is beginning to worry me. i'm afraid i haven't done my homework enough to know what i'm doing is correct.

is this enough info to give me a diagnosis captain? i anxiously await your reply as i have a locking unit burning a hole in my pocket (i'm anxious to install in other words.)

-alan

 

As long as your bearings and the gear and pinion are okay, it won't be too difficult to set it up as long as the pinion stays at the same depth.

Remove the Ring gear and differential unit and place the ring gear on the new differential. Put the unit back in place with the cap bolts barely snug, then put white grease on the gear and run the pattern. Get a book so you can see what the proper pattern looks like. Adjust using the adjusters on either side of the carrier for the correct pattern and then lock it down and recheck the pattern.

Don't try this shortcut when replacing other parts including bearings and gear and pinion. In that case you will need a dial indicator and follow the directions in the manual exactly.

Good luck,
Doc
ASE Master

 

hey could you tell me how much it cost you for the locking differential and if you personally think it was worth it, and also how significant the turning radius is effected? thanks either way.

 

It does not effect turning radius.

A limited slip helps alot in mud or other situations where you find yourself with traction under one wheel only.

Good luck,
Doc

 

alan
if it was just the additive you are ok,i could not understand from your first if they had left what out or both. l.s's and lockers tend to chatter going around turns and its fairly normal, but a lot is not.i have a detroit locker in my 150 turns oboy rough. we had another thread not to long ago where all us old timers and some younger ones pretty much gave the whole story on how to do a rear set up. try a search on rears and see what comes up
good luck and watch ebay for the bad guys

 

concerning the limited slip- I have two trucks with l.s. my f150 and a 85 toyota pickup for hunting and I hate the limited slip in the both because the theory of limited slip is great but sadly it's just a theory. In mud limited slip puts majority of the power to the wheel with less traction, on road it is a great setup though. I am looking to put a full posi on the "yoda", and a push button on the "f" for drags and towing.

 

i paid $125.00 for the unit i bought on ebay. it was supposed to be brand new and it looks to actually be just this. i hear these are fairly expensive from ford. i'll judge how good a deal this was when i get it in and it works.

 

captchas,

thanks again. any idea what a fair number of labor hours for this job would be?

-alan

 

doc,

thanks for the response and info.

what is your estimate of a fair number of labor hours for this job?

-alan

 

I will guess about 3.

Good luck,
Doc

 

thanks again! where are you in n e tx? can you suggest someone in the dfw area I could trust to do this right?

-alan

 

I live in Lamar County about 20 miles outside Paris, Texas. I left the DFW Metromess about 18 years ago, so I don't know anyone over there any more that I would trust and could now find.

Sorry,
Doc