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Replace I.P., Injectors, both, or neither

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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 10:47 AM
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Replace I.P., Injectors, both, or neither

Hi thanks for reading. I have a '84 F-250 6.9L. The exhaust is split. For about a year I have had a small amount of blue/white smoke coming out of the left exhaust pipe. Last week on my way to work I noticed the truck kind of shuttering. Thought it might be low on fuel so I switched tanks. Nada...same thing. I looked in my left mirror to change lanes and couldn't see. My truck was setting a smoke screen that would have made James Bond jealous. The right side is just fine no smoke. The truck is still shuttering. Any ideas on what is up with it? Do I need to replace the I.P., Injectors, both, or niether? I appreciate any advice.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 01:12 PM
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Depending on the age/mileage on the IP and injectors as to how deep you go. It's not likely the original IP and injectors, injectors and return lines are not all grey painted are they.

IPs, injectors and return line kits can be obtained at.... http://www.mwfi.com/shop.htm
 

Last edited by PLC7.3; Jan 26, 2005 at 01:15 PM.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 06:07 PM
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what color was the smoke that was hiding the traffic behind you? Shuddering could be a bad injector (s) or the injection pump. Blue smoke is oil burning and may be coming from valve seals or cracked piston (s) and/or rings. Also, how much do you want to spend and how much do you have at the moment to get your truck running smoothly.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 09:21 AM
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Thank you for responding. First PLC. As far as I can tell the half of the injectors are original. The lines are all grey. The pump looks original. I had the timing adjusted on it a year and a half ago. 300,000 miles give or take some. Second Bilder. The smoke was more white than anything. I wouldn't wanna spend more than five or six hundred dollars. Why? I look forward to a response.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 09:30 AM
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did you ck your oil and coolant for cross contamination? Maybe a head/head gasket concern too
 
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 01:07 PM
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I will definately check it out.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 09:58 PM
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When the injectors go bad or start to, the spring inside gets weak or broken. The compression will force air back into the injector and cause it to "miss". Could be one cause of shuddering. The fuel return lines could be leaking on the return side and causing air to enter the fuel system. Another cause of shuddering. The injection pump could be going and making the whole engine "miss" another cause for shuddering. Or a combination of injectors, return lines and injection pump. You could "short out" each injector by loosening the connection on top of the injector til fuel flows out. if you find one that does not make a difference, that is probably the bad injector. OR you could remove all of them and take them to the injection shop for testing. And I am sure you will get one helluva story from them. Find a shop you can really depend on and then cry poverty (limited funds). While testing the injectors in the truck at idle, be sure you dont get caught up in moving parts. Best to break the lines loose and resnug them,,,start the engine and loosen each one and retighten before moving to next one. Move slowly from one to the other, kind of let the engine get its breath and smooth out. If you change the injectors yourself, be sure to get out of the hole, the copper crush washer on the bottom of the injector and replace it with new. Hope this helps you out. Remember the parts do get expensive and dont get caught up on moving parts.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 10:53 AM
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I will check out the injectors this weekend. Thank you builder. I reallly appreciate your advice. What I think I will end up doing is buying a rebulit I.P. or having mine done, and getting a set of new injectors. Is it a big chore to change that stuff out?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 03:08 PM
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Its all time consuming but if you go with the new pump and injectors ... do the injectors after you remove the pump and fuel lines in one assembly. The injection pump is held on to the injection drive tower by 3 nuts on the back side of the cover and there are 3 5/16 12 point bolts inside the little cover right on the front of the tower cover (it may even be your oil fill spout) held on with 2 bolts. Dont remove the tower cover with the pump, you will loose the timing marks inside the front cover. When you remove the pump (not the drive tower cover) and the lines, you will have a thing that looks like a big butterfly or centipede, whatever you want to call it. Anyway it will have the fuel lines still hooked to the injection pump. Good luck. Let us know how ya make out. REMEMBER Dont crank on the starter too long when you go to fire it up.
 
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