Cab insulation
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Calgary
Cab insulation
Has anyone experience with insulating their cab for sound deadening and to hold in the heat in the winter? At highway speeds it is so loud inside my '72 that I can't hear the radio and when it is cold outside the heater doesn't keep the cab warm. 
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 693
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From: Tuttle, Oklahoma
I met a fella here in oklahoma that used a bunch of foam wrapped in plastic to insulate his cab, it worked very nicely and it does both well.
here are a few things to do...first get new cab rubber (glass, doors, any holes that are open due to missing grommets), and window gaskets for the door glass. this should take alot of the wind noise away. then get some sound/heat insulating material (I like Dynamat) and go to town insulating your cab. not only will this keep heat in and sound out, but it will also keep the cool from your a/c in and you can talk to the passenger without screaming.
Go to pawengineparts.com and order a catalog. they have the best prices I have ever seen on most of your universal hot rodding parts like insulation and hoses and stuff of that nature. it will be the best $5 you will ever spend, plus you get it back with the first order.
here are a few things to do...first get new cab rubber (glass, doors, any holes that are open due to missing grommets), and window gaskets for the door glass. this should take alot of the wind noise away. then get some sound/heat insulating material (I like Dynamat) and go to town insulating your cab. not only will this keep heat in and sound out, but it will also keep the cool from your a/c in and you can talk to the passenger without screaming.
Go to pawengineparts.com and order a catalog. they have the best prices I have ever seen on most of your universal hot rodding parts like insulation and hoses and stuff of that nature. it will be the best $5 you will ever spend, plus you get it back with the first order.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,281
Likes: 18
From: Northern California
I started with several cans of rubberized underbody spray. I started by cleaning the firewall and treating any rust, then a few coats to start, then a bunch of coats from a greater distance.
Spraying from a greater distance causes it to have more air pockets when it hits. After it dries it has a spongy feel to it.
I did this to the firewall and inside the doors.
Then applied alum backing heat shield to the same, as well as the back area of the cab around the fuel tank.
I also did the roof.
You can then do the floors and cover with thick carpet. My last project I custom cut the carpet and it turned out good, but next time I'll buy a pre-made setup. You can get them to cover the whole floor of the cab.
I got a bunch of insulation for free from the junk yards, just start pulling up the carpet in a newer truck / suv.
It takes a while but other than the carpet and door rubber, it's not that expensive and does a great job.
I'd treat the floor because if you get water soaked into the insulation, you rust out the floors.
Spraying from a greater distance causes it to have more air pockets when it hits. After it dries it has a spongy feel to it.
I did this to the firewall and inside the doors.
Then applied alum backing heat shield to the same, as well as the back area of the cab around the fuel tank.
I also did the roof.
You can then do the floors and cover with thick carpet. My last project I custom cut the carpet and it turned out good, but next time I'll buy a pre-made setup. You can get them to cover the whole floor of the cab.
I got a bunch of insulation for free from the junk yards, just start pulling up the carpet in a newer truck / suv.
It takes a while but other than the carpet and door rubber, it's not that expensive and does a great job.
I'd treat the floor because if you get water soaked into the insulation, you rust out the floors.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,281
Likes: 18
From: Northern California
I think they sell them here, click on motorhaven at the upper right side...
Otherwise LMC and JCWitney and other make them. Do a web search.
some come with the jute backing which will help insulate too.
Otherwise LMC and JCWitney and other make them. Do a web search.
some come with the jute backing which will help insulate too.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 525
Likes: 2
From: Mansfield, Texas
Here's another thought on the floor/rust problem. I put one layer of fiberglass down, on just the floor board at my feet. I would rather have the potential water evaporate out of the padding, than rust the floor.
I also used that aluminum/bubble wrap sheeting on the engine compartment side of the firewall. Screwed it in with 3/4" self tappers along with fender washer to hold it in place. I also put shower pan liner on before that.
Robert P.
I also used that aluminum/bubble wrap sheeting on the engine compartment side of the firewall. Screwed it in with 3/4" self tappers along with fender washer to hold it in place. I also put shower pan liner on before that.
Robert P.
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Senior User
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Where does the insulation in the doors go...inside the door on the outside sheet metal? Won't it get wet?
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 693
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From: Tuttle, Oklahoma
most automotive insulators will actually repel water. just don't use anything like foam or paper or some sort of padding that will hold moisture. if you use dynamat, or something similar, you follow directions and you won't have any problems. just make sure that whatever you end up using has a good seal to the door panel or whatever you are sticking it to, so as not to create a pocket where water can be held against the panel.
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